Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild

[sekess]

Hello,
We are the original owners of this Electrolux 1205 from 1975 and I had a few questions as to sourcing good quality parts:

1. Where would you guys order the (I think #608) fan bearing from? Is there a supplier that you know of that carries these bearings that are of known good quality?

2. Is there a specific oil that you guys like for the sleeve bearing on the other side of the armature?

3. Where do you guys get those armature dressing sticks that I see people using to clean up the sections that the brushes come in contact with?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[vacuumlad1650]

Personally, I have always bought my bearings at the local Auto Parts store.

Armature sticks should be found at any QUALITY vacuum repair shop. Where in the US are you located? Many of our members have sought out good shops in different parts of the world, and can make a recommendation.

For the bushings, I always use 3-in-1 MOTOR oil (in the BLUE label bottle). Do not use plain 3-in-1, it will gum up the bronze sleeve bearing

 

[sekess]

Hi vacuumland650,

I'm in Northern NJ.

Really - autoparts stores carry bearings for electric motors? There is an Autozone close to me. I wouldn't have thought to look there.

Thanks

 

[real1shep]

Most urban.....

places have bearing and seal shops now. Just go there....tell them the application and they will measure the bearing. Stay away from Chinese bearings if you can.

The product mentioned above is specifically for small electric motors. It is 20wt non-detergent oil. Pretty easy to find. I use it as well in bushings, although I make no claim that it's the 'best' product out there.

I would certainly test your armature....plenty of YouTube vids on that. Also get the correct brushes. Commutator sticks are out there....I found mine on eBay....although shortly after I bought mine, the seller doubled his price so I don't recommend him anymore.

Kevin

 

[sekess]

Hey Kevin,

"Most urban.....

places have bearing and seal shops now. Just go there....tell them the application and they will measure the bearing. Stay away from Chinese bearings if you can. "

Yea - I don't know of any of those types of shops around here.

"Commutator sticks are out there....I found mine on eBay....although shortly after I bought mine, the seller doubled his price so I don't recommend him anymore. "

That lousy bugger. Well, at least you got one before the price went up.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[jo]

Perhaps

A local Aerus branch can help you. I know there’s one in Denville and another in Fairfield...not sure where in Northern No you are but my parents live in Morris Plains and I grew up there so I know these branches still exist. If you need to locate one go to Aerusvacuums.com and try the store locator.

We tool our Golden Jubilee to the Denville branch long ago when the bearing was making lots of noise and the guy there just told us the motor was on its way out. We didn’t keep it because we had 2 more newer models to replace it with.


Jon

 

[sekess]

Hi Jon,
I used to work in Morris Plains. It's about an hour away. I'll check out Aerusvacuums.com.
Thanks,
Steve

 

[madman]

Honestly, if your motor's commutator is torn up enough that you really need a commutator stone... it's probably shot. It doesn't really need to be perfect. As long as it doesn't have any major grooves and isn't burnt, a ScotchBrite pad is generally good enough.

For the ball bearing, read the trade number on the old bearing and order one of a reputable bearing maker on ebay.

 

[real1shep]

The idea....

of the commutator stone isn't to reshape/rehab a commutator. It's simply to dress up the segment so your new brushes break in correctly.

Note that these Aerus places are very geographical as far as being 'helpful'. The one here 45 miles away, has people with accents that I can't even understand. Propose anything about older Elux's to them and you get silence....then a pitch for a new vac.

I was talked into that Beyond "Guardian" air purifier by a 'roving' Aerus salesman.
$3,000+ unit. Probably cost the factory $500 or less to make. It did everything they claimed it would do however. This is the third yr with it. The filter is supposed to be changed every 6 months, $120. My UV light went out and that alone was $50. They would argue that over three yrs, that's a bargain.....only if you're rich and/or have someone with severe respiratory problems.

Same technology that NASA uses yadda, yadda, yadda. It's really a way for Aerus to get their foot in the door and sell you their other products. My fan makes more noise than it should. You should see that sucker....huge thing, sealed. I don't think I've ever seen a continuous fan quite like that. Salesman said to just go outside and blow the dust off it.....doesn't make any difference. I would bet money he's never fixed one.

Kevin

 

[sekess]

Hi Madman,
Yea, I'm guessing it's not in horrible shape. I'll know more when I open it up. I was thinking of actually using 660 grit sandpaper while I spun the armature in a drill - to clean it up.
I just wasn't sure if it would then have to be run in with a dressing stone or not.

Thanks for the info,
Steve

 

[sekess]

Hi Real1shep,
I know what you mean about those kind of sales techniques. When I was younger, I bought a few Thermogard replacement windows because a similar sales tactic. After living with them for a while, I came to the conclusion that they are overpriced and they don't keep the cold out the way I expected they would (from the sales pitch). They also gave a lifetime warranty against breakage - no matter what. But, the creeps went bankrupt a few years later and then start up again under a slightly different name.
Lesson learned.

 

[sekess]

Looks like I should replace that tubing that is parts of the dirt sensor mechanism. It's getting yellow and it's not as pliable as it should be.

Do you guys know what size (diameter and wall thickness) tubing that is? I can measure it. But, I thought maybe it's some standard size that's used in there.

Thanks

 

[real1shep]

That tubing you......

can find at any good hardware store.....just try to make sure it's not from China. Their tubing has lumps and irregularities.

Make sure you replace all of it. I usually take the mechanism completely apart and examine/clean the diaphragm etc.....but you don't have to.

You could dress the armature with 600 grit, chucked in a drill. But it's more reliable to have the motor running and dress with the stone. People do both....I prefer the stone.

Make sure the brushes move freely inside the holders...if they bind even the smallest amount, your carbons won't wear evenly.

I'll reject an armature if the segments are significantly worn down and you can see a wear line indent where the brushes have been running.

Also make sure there's a significant groove between the segments. If the groove it too shallow, you'll get arcing.

Kevin

 

[sekess]

Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the info.

Is it possible to take the dirt sensor mechanism totally apart? I removed the geared screw section that has the 2 o-rings. I lubricated the o-rings and then screwed it back into the diaphragm body.
I wanted to disassemble the body so as to clean out the dust. But, the two halves looked like they may have been glued together in 2 spots - not sure about that. I didn't want to start forcing things. So, I left that as is.
But since you mentioned it, is there a way to separate the two halves without cracking anything?
Thanks,
Steve

 

[sekess]

Hi Kevin,
My mistake. You meant the diaphragm on the other side of the tubing. I thought you were talking about the clear plastic section that does the dial adjusting.

 

[jo]

Wow Steve

Small world. My parents moved to Morris Plains in 1966 and are still there. I was born in 69 and lived there until 1993 when I moved to Dallas for a job. Rarely do people know Morris Plains so I usually just say Morristown and Parsippany areas since Morris Plains is so small. Anyway., 8 think both the Denville and Fairfield shops are the old school more helpful types than some that have changed ownership more recently. You can also try rvacacuums.com and ask to speak with Ray’s son. Ray Satterwhite is an Old school Electrolux now Aerus dealer in Richmond Virginia and his son rebuilds and restores old machines. Take a look at the web site, give him a call perhaps he will get you what you need!

Nice that you want to save your Golden Jubilee. I remember when the one my Grandmother had was brand spanking new! Wish I had more to offer. I have a Silverado and the motor has gone out this year. There is a guy on here that rebuilds these motors. I’ll have to look at the thread and see if I can find his member name and perhaps you can email him for additional info. Not all me members check in regularly.

Jon

 

[madman]

Sekess - 660 grit will work fine. (Personally, I'd use a ScotchBrite after the 660 anyway.) Be careful chucking the armature in a drill. Especially with the end of the shaft that goes in the sleeve bearing, as that needs to be perfectly smooth. What I do is clip a piece of rubber hose in the appropriate size and put it over the shaft before chucking it into the drill. Since most people won't have spools of vacuum hose in 4 different sizes, a couple wraps of masking tape will work (clean off the adhesive with alcohol afterwards). And chuck it in gently. Or just chuck the other end of the shaft lol. Still try not to mar screw threads or anything like that.

Also, 2nd on Real1shep - clean the grooves between the commutator segments. Run a box knife through each groove. The carbon powder buildup will be removed as easily as you'd imagine. However, some motors (in general) have the grooves filled with some kind of plastic or epoxy... which won't yield to a box knife, just a heads up.

When it's all done, the motor will have to be run for some time to break in the brushes, if not using a stone. But like... that's easier anyway lol.

 

[sekess]

Thanks Jo,
Yea, I was in Morris Plains some time ago. It was a nice town.
I'll definitely take a look at rvacuums.com and call after I get it all apart and get more organized as to what I need.

Hey MadMan,
Great info - thanks.
You just clean it with a ScotchBrite pad manually? Or, do you also have the armature spinning in a drill - like when you use the 669 grit paper?
and
Can't you just clean off the armature with contact cleaner instead of the abrasives? Or, is that not enough?

Thanks again guys,
Steve

 

[real1shep]

I don't want.....

to be misquoted here. I NEVER chuck a shaft up in a drill...too easy to mar or put a burnell in the shaft. I said you "could" do it that way.

I used to gently rotate the shaft in my hands using 600 grit paper only to get the charring off....then use the stone to help set the new brushes.

There's a whole technology thing on how deep the gap depth should be between the segments. Depends on the diameter on the commutator, brush width etc. That's too much bother for me. I've only seen it matter if the grooves are too shallow.

Kevin