Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild

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The purpose

Of this tubing is it is all part of the complicated automatic control system which monitors suction before and after the bag compartment to trigger the automatic shut off and pop the bag door open when suction efficiency is reduced from the bag filling with dirt. I’ve never quite understood why they have the tube going back to the cordwinder except for that perhaps the system needs access to a point where there is no air being sucked in or blown out and that would occur inside the cord reel which has access to the air outside the cleaner through the hole where the cord comes out and was a better place to obtain this than placing a hole somewhere on the cleaner body which someone could come along and fill up or tape over for some reason thinking it shouldn’t be there. I’m sure the marvelous engineer who developed the system knows why and perhaps an Aerus repair person likely knows why it needs to be there as well. I think that tube goes direct from the back corner of the bag compartment to the cordwinder but I could be wrong, there’s several connections in and around the bag compartment for it all and another in the suction port where the hose attaches. It’s quite fascinating how it all works to me and I’d love to read a study on it someday.

Definitely hold the cord when you remove the cordwinder cover. It should be set on a table with the outside side (gold painted side) down when you do it, maybe ebpevn put it in a vice so it stays put so you have your hands free. The spring will not explode unless you attempt to remove the reel or if you let go of the cord it will likely whip around 3 more times or so..if you attempt to remove the cord spool...then that could happen as the spring is wrapped around a smaller spool that you will see a part of hiding behind the cord spool. It is not fastened in so if you pull off the cord spool the spring spool will come off with it and then it will indeed explode like the snake in a can unless you hold both pieces together, once the spring spool comes off itks mounting post, it can then unwind itself. But if you hold it you can slowly unwind the spring around the cord spool until it is unwound. But likely if there’s nothing wrong with the cordwinder spring system itself I would not bother to remove the spools at all, just count how many time ps you have to rotate the cord spool using the exit hole as your guide until the tension is reduced off the spool. You will need to reload this tension before reassembling.

Trust me, unit is a nightmare if it explodes and could cut your hands up and it is basically a “tape” of spring steel. There is a keyhole at either end where it fastens to each of the spools. One must not overwind it when reassembling or it could come off the spool when you pull the cord all the way out, but should be done about 3 additional spins of the cord spool reel once the cord is fully back on its spool to allow the spring to be tight enough to roll up even the last few feet of cord. Looks like your cord end has been replaced, if some of the cord was shortened you will actually have more rotations of the reel you can wind the spring, but it really depends on how many feet of cord has been deleted from the original length.

I’d consider having the cord replaced if it’s the original. Sometimes the cords short out where they are tied at the end of the reel. Note it is looped under itself from the factory, this is correct to prevent tension on the inner connection of the cord.

Clean the electrical racetracks on the spool when you have it opened and the contacts on the inside of the cover that make contact with the racetracks.

Jon
 
Hi Jon,
Yes - that tubing in question goes from the back of the bag compartment to the cord-winder. And like you said, at the cord-winder side, the tubing is accessing outside air. I was also thinking that it might function as a little bit of a fail-safe in that if the bag ever happens to gets super clogged and the door opener mechanism fails to open the door, then the motor fan will at least have some airflow (although limited because the tubing diam is relatively small) from access to outside air. I don't know if it actually works like that. But, that was my thought as to its potential function.

Yea - I was thinking of clamping the cord down - just to be safe. From looking at the outside of the housing, I don't think there will be enough room in there to have a nut tighten down a small bulkhead adapter. But, I'll know more when I open it up.

Good idea on cleaning all the contact surfaces. I would like to also change over that terminal block to the upgrade kit that was mentioned earlier. I did some searching on it. But, nothing came up. When I finish disassembling everything and get all my thoughts organized, I guess I'll give Aerus a call and see if they still supply those. I couldn't even find o pic of one anywhere. If I could see one, I could probably just duplicate one if I can't still get an actual kit.

Steve
 
Hi again Jon,
Thank you very much for that detailed explanation on the rewind assembly - very helpful.
And, that was a great suggestion (to clamp down the cord end). I just popped off the cover and yea - the cord gave a nice yank against the clamp. I see how it works now. The cover is where the little stop hook anchors on.
I'll consider replacing the cord. I want to think on it a little. My first concern is that crack repair and refurbing the motor.

I also took off the motor cover. There is a foam gasket between the motor cover and the frame of the motor. That thing just deteriorated into a fine dust. What do you guys usually use as a new gasket? I assume that a new foam gasket isn't available.

Thanks Again,
steve
 
So - what do you guys think. I have about 3/4" on the brushes. Do they still have a decent amount of life left to them? When new, how long was the length of the carbon - approximately?

Thanks,
Steve

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And another thing - How the heck do you get that fan nut off of the armature shaft? You can't hold onto the fan (it's too delicate). Is there a trick that you guys use?

Thanks,
Steve
 
I think...

Aerus will have the assembly for bypassing the cordwinder contacts. It’s a little kit with contacts you screw in to the the cordwinder and the terminal block and a set of wires to connect the two, it has those little crumpled on slide on and plug in ends in it and on the wires. I have my cordwinder from the golden jubilee. I’ll show you that end so you can see what was done on that part. It’s cheap from them, I’d just call them and get one...I’d hope they still make it. You can always call the Richmond Aerus dealer at rvavacuums.com. Ray’s son restores old machines so he will surely be excited to help you out to get what you need and for things like how to replace that crumbled foam gasket, etc. I think he’s going to be a good resource for you and excited that you are rehabbing your machine. The motor brushes look like they’ve still got life left but not sure how much ultimately and if they can be easily replaced I’d do that while you have it all apart. This is motivating me to check the brushes on my problematic Silverado.

I do not believe the tube going to the back would be a suction relief should the bag clog. If you put your hand over the hose inlet no air comes out of the blower end indicating air is not coming in that way. I just think it is all part of the suction monitoring system in some intricate way and need a stable unpressurized air source.

I think the fan nut may be reverse threaded so might need to hold and turn the nut clockwise. Not sure but something seems to make me think that. I’ve removed fan nuts a long time ago but it was back in 1991 so I can’t recall and I was replacing bad fans anyway and don’t remember how I held the thing from turning. I may have just reached in and held the armature with my fingers but can’t recall.

Wish I could help more.

Jon
 
Thanks Jon,
I spoke to Brian in Richmond. I was hoping they'd have the terminal block kit. But, they don't make those anymore according to him and they don't have any left. What he sells as an alternative is a complete wiring harness from a newer model. It's a relatively big install in that you have to drill out the rivets on the front wheel sled assembly (and other). Plus, it costs about $50 plus shipping. That's a little steep for me - especially since I know there will be other costs in getting her up and running.

I'm thinking of just bypassing the terminal block myself. The only tricky part will be the attachment to the terminals on the cord winder.
I would really appreciate pics of how electrolux did that attachment. That would be a great help.
Thanks,
Jon
 
Photo of cordwinder contact point change

Here’s what the kit changes in the cordwinder. Basically the contacts that wrap over to the outside side are cut off before they wrap over. Holes are drilled to secure the new right angle brass pieces which the jumper wires will slide onto. Then the screws are inserted into the holes with the brass angle pieces fastening them on. The angle pieces and the screws and the jumper wires are included in the kit along with the needed parts to convert at the terminal block which I cannot remember. The main unit is long gone so can’t show that fir reference. I saved the cordwinder since we have other luxe’s it fits and we had paid good money a year or two before it died to have a new cord put into it. I know my Dad had put a new cord end on but I think it may not have stayed on and perhaps come off when the cord was being retracted getting lost inside so Mom called her longtime Electrolux guy she bought her Model L from back in the early 70s to deal with it.

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If your contacts are good

If the terminal block and contacts are good you may not want to bother doing anything. I think your picture showed the cordwinder contacts as fine with no evidence of arcing. You may however want to slightly bend the metal strips out just a tiny bit on the cordwinder so when you reinstall it, there is a firm connection. It’s when there’s a poor connection of the metal not quite touching enough that is when the arcing occurs.

Annoying they don’t make those parts anymore. I know on my Silverado there is no terminal block so that system was discontinued either after the Golden Jubilee or Super J or Olympia. I suspect it was when the Super J came out as the body was lengthened for the slightly bigger motor. I think Aerus is just not wanting to support models beyond 40 years of age any longer. Too bad because many are still out there that may have had light use and will be around for many years to come and they are great machines.

Did Bryan give you any clues on any of the other things like the gasket?

Yes that entire wiring harness seems a bit pricey.

Jon
 
Another alternative ...

Is to call many Aerus locations until you find one that still has the 1205 terminal block repair kit still in stock. It’s in a small envelope so shouldn’t cost much to have it mailed to you if it’s a location nowhere near you. You have to enter zip codes in the Aerus online store locator to find branches anywhere in the US. Would be nice if we could just get a giant state by state list of the existing branches and their addresses and phone numbers.

Aerus branches have been dwindling but there are lots in the Northeast because Electrolux was most popular there. I know you said you are in NJ right? Perhaps try the Denville and Fairfield branches and Inthink there might still be one in Somerville. Practically every other town used to have one. Those are two I know of. There’s one here in Dallas and another in Ft. Worth but that’s it for this huge area. Not as popular here in TX.

Jon
 
Excellent Pics Jon,

Yes, I asked him about that gasket. He said it serves no purpose except to dampen vibrations. So, he said you could leave that off.
He may carry bearings. But,I have to see what I have in there first.
He didn't tell me if the brushes had a lot of life left to them. I asked him. but, he didn't say. He did say that they are not available any more either.
For plastic glue - he told me he gets some stuff from Germany. But, he didn't tell me what it is.
I hadn't attempted the fan nut prior to calling him. So, I didn't know it was going to be an issue at that point. If I had known, I would have asked him if he had any tips and if it was reverse threaded or not.

So, I'm going to have to kind of feel my way along with some of these things.

Those pics are very helpful. I'm thinking, I can just drill out the terminal block and eliminate it. Then I can use faston connectors wire-to-wire (no terminal block).
Now let me ask you - those screws that attach the 90 degree bent faston terminals to the cord winder - Are they just sheet metal screws? Or, are they bolts that are fastened on the inside of the cord winder with nuts?

Thanks again,
Steve
 
And yet another alternative here

Is to perhaps buy a used Electrolux that’s in good shape off eBay, craigslist, or facebook marketplace and choose either one similar to yours and keep your for the parts or get a more recent model in case you need parts in the future you won’t run into the discontinued problem again.

I’ve just about decided I’ll likely not bother to repair or replace the motor on my Silverado. The sled base is cracked and the body of the unit is pretty scratched up from the previous owner. My cord also seems like it might be on its last legs. My hose and attachments are all fine so I may just get SNL different main unit and be done with it. I could pick up a Super J, Olympia or another Silverado main unit for not too much and keep the old Silverado for spare parts if something goes and be good to go for several more years.

There are lots of good deals to be had. Saw an Aerus Lux Classic on NJ craigslist and it went for $60 and was barely used and included all the attachments. I almost inquired to buy it and pay the shipping extra to have it shipped to me.

Just saying...it’s another option here than all the work and expense you may be facing on your machine.

Jon
 
Fan Nut Removal

There's got to be some trick to getting that fan nut off the commutator shaft. The fan is too delicate to grab onto (I think).
Does anybody have a tip?

And Jon - I may be wrong. But, I don't think it's reverse threaded.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Power Nozzle Wand Sheath

Hi Jon,
Let me ask you about that power nozzle sheath again. As you know, I'm in need of a new one because the catch spring at the top is broken. I'd like to go with an original Electrolux. But, I'll see what kind of deal comes available on ebay. I may go with an aftermarket one if it's a real good deal.
But either way - let me ask you - with the newer Electroluxs or the aftermarkets, will my older lower metal wand lock into the newer upper metal (located inside of the sheath) as it does on my current upper wand? Basically, I'm asking if the locking mechanism that locks the upper metal to lower metal wands is the same on mine as it is on the newer models and also the newer aftermarket ones?

Thanks Again,
Steve
 
Looking back at the photos in your initial post, you have a PN2 with the newer style wand, so yes, you should be able to attach your lower wand to a new sheath. But why bother when you can just get the whole wand? That basic wand design was used with every Electrolux canister from your Golden Jubilee model, on up to the Canadian style plastic canisters from the '90s and 2000s. They're plentiful on eBay, just have a little patience and hold out for one in nice shape at a good price.
 
Hi vacuumland,
Yup - leather glove worked like a charm. I knew I'd be able to get the nut off. I just didn't want to damage the fan in the process. Your tip worked great.
Getting that back cap off was a little tricky also. But after a little finagling, got that off as well.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Hi human,
Yup - it's a PN2. I see some of those wands on ebay. I just want to make sure that it has the newer fastening method (the way it fastens to the hose end). I'm not crazy about that spring clip that brole on mine. The PN2 head attaches to the bottom wand with the same spring clip mechanism as the one that broke at the top of the wand. The bottom one doesn't come off that often. So, that's probably fine as far as is not being exercised too often. But, I'd like to make sure I get the newer style at the top. It's hard to tell in the ebay listings what kind of clipping mechanism is used. The pics don't seem to normally focus on that.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Sleeve Bearing Oiling System

So, can someone explain to me how this oiling system for the sleeve bearing is supposed to work?
I have included 2 pictures. I will oil up the shaft and the bearing and saturate the felt pad with oil. But as you can see from the pics, the shaft and the inside of the bearing aren't in any kind of contact with the felt pad. What is the theory here? How does the saturated pad keep the critical surfaces of the shaft and bearing lubricated?
The pad is pretty dry right now. But, I guess that would be expected after all these years. I would think with this kind of bearing, an oil port that can be accessed by the user would be advantageous. That way, some oil can be easily added by the user on a yearly (or thereabout) basis. But of course, that would have added to the manufacturing cost. So, there is that. And I assume that these bearings weren't that problematic. Although, I have heard that because the motor shaft runs in the horizontal position, that bearing does have a tendency to wear out-of-round. Which in turn, causes other issues. My guess is that a better oiling system here would have slowed down the progression of that kind of wear.

Anyway - just out of curiosity - does anyone have knowledge (or thoughts) on how this felt system is supposed to work? The felt is in contact with the outside of the bearing. Does the oil sort of work its way from the felt pad to the outside of the bearing and then to the inside of the bearing? I guess there might be some of that going on.
Thanks,
Steve

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