Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild

[sekess]

Fan Bearing

Got the fan bearing out. It looks like SKI R8. But, I think it must be an SKF R8. I just started looking on ebay and Amazon. How much do these things usually go for? I'm seeing prices around $30. I'm going to have to look around some more. But if that's what they go for, I'm going to probably end up putting this guy back in. I really wish I could just pop the sides off and grease this guy up. But, they seem to be stamped on.

Steve

 

[madman]

Steve, judging by the design of the oil felt, the bearing is a sintered bronze bearing. Think of it as a metal sponge. The felt is meant to resupply the bearing with oil through capillary, not to directly oil the shaft.

 

[jo]

The wand

The lower chrome wand has not changed in attachment style. It will work with the upper wand clip/sheath which is still the same but the sheath has a button that engages the clip to separate the two wands should people want to disassemble the two sections regularly.

As far as the power nozzle elbow goes, the spring clip is the only style made for that part a d is still made that way even in the new Aerus Lux classics, it just is covered with more plastic today.

The only clip that was changed in mid 1980s was the one that has broken on yours, on the upper power nozzle wand. Either style is pretty durable and I’ve seen many of the old style still unbroken and I’ve even seen the newer style wear out too. The metal see saw style push button wears down where it engages to the slots on the hose handle. To preserve wear on the push button, simply press it in while inserting the hose handle, even though you don’t need to. But not pressing it sill cause it to drag on the hose handle as it is slid in and cause the wear. The button is replaceable though if it does wear out. Overall the newer system is easier to use. For the older system, they are best used with a twisting motion when removing but on the power nozzle wand you can’t twist due to the electric port connection needing to be aligned.

If you can’t eventually find the wand and sheath on eBay it can always be purchased from Aerus but again you could likely buy an entire used complete set for all that you’ll end up spending in mixed parts for this project.

Happy New Year Steve and I hope the cordwinder photos helped to understand the terminal block bypass option.

Jon

 

[jo]

Screws for the terminal block bypass

Those acres are just sheet metal acres so the bite into the plastic and that’s it if I recall correctly so you have to make the hole no larger than the shaft of the screw so the threads can bite in to the plastic without coming loose over time.

If I recall correctly, we didn’t have to pull off the terminal block altogether, if you cut off the wrap over brass from the cordwinder body it will render the terminal block useless if you disconnect its wiring which I assume is your plan here. This is basically the way the newer models were set up, the wiring going forward to the switch and motor just plugs onto the cordwinders slip on terminals which is basically the same as in my photos, the new covers just don’t have the part that sticks out for the terminal block.

In theory you could get an cordwinder cover from a later model and it will solve both issues as it will have the slide on terminals and of course you won’t have to deal with gluing that hose port.

Jon

 

[aprules2]

Im in northern NJ too, I just bought a Golden Jubilee from my local Electrolux Aerus dealer this morning. If you need a good dealer who can help with old parts, call the Hillsdale location. The owner Ed has been there for 50 years. He got me new brushes for my B8 and serviced and polised the Golden J as they call it before selling it to me. He has tons of old stuff.

 

[sekess]

Hey Aprules2,
Thanks. I'll give him a shot.
So far, I have called 2 places without luck. The most recent guy was a little crazy. I can deal with crazy if he was helpful. But, he really wasn't.

Thanks again,
Steve