Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild

[dysonman1]

The Vac America Clean (VAC) bags ARE Perfect bags. That's what comes in the new Perfect tank type. The best bag you can use in an Electrolux since they are HEPA bags and leak no dust. The genuine Aerus bags are terrible in comparison.

 

[real1shep]

That's right.....

Tom! And the Aerus guy was in my house trying to sell me those paper bags....they weren't even the quality of some older paper ply bags I had. I told him I had HEPA bags. He said there was no such thing for Type C bags.

I got a handful out of the cupboard and showed him. He got out some paper and wrote down the name. Then he said they weren't really HEPA bags. At that point I asked him to leave my house for his own health.

@Steve:If you go into eBay and type 'Electrolux Type C bags"....the Perfect HEPA bags are the first listing you'll see(at least it was that way this morning).


Kevin

 

[sekess]

Thanks Kevin - I'll take a look.

 

[vaclab]

Electrolux Type C Bags Particle Emissions Test

Here's a comparison of three type "C" bags. The "Perfect" brand are clearly the best.

Average 0.3 um particle counts:
Initial Room = 5859, DVC Paper = 8400, V.A.C. HEPA = 1650, Perfect HEPA = 370

Electrolux Type C Bags Particle Emissions Test

 

[titaniciscool]

evacuumstore.com HEPA bags

I have been using these in my Super J, as well the Style R versions in my Epic 8000. They seem to be pretty affordable as well. I get emails fairly often of sales they are having on them.

I wonder how they would fare in the same tests above.


https://evacuumstore.com/p-20139-electrolux-replacement-anti-allergy-style-c-vacuum-bags-6-pack.aspx

 

[vaclab]

Those Blue Colored Bags

Appear to be the same as the V.A.C. bags, just tinted blue. If so, they would have the same filtration properties.

Bill

 

[suckolux]

I have the perfect bags in my Silverado, they are the only ones that don't allow something to escape onto the pre-motor filter which I put in. Every other one the filter is dirty over one use of a bag.

 

[sekess]

Hi Vaclab,
Nice video and a cool little meter.

That stinks - I just bought some V.A.C. bags this morning. I thought they were the same as the Perfect bags. The description said "Perfect C101 Hepa Vacuum Bags By V.A.C.".

Oh well. After I go through these - I'll have to do a more extensive search for the real Perfect bags.

Anyway - Thanks again - great video post,
Steve

 

[sekess]

Hey suckolux,
They make pre-motor filters for these metal canister Electoluxes?

Steve

 

[suckolux]

Not that I am aware of Steve. I would cut to fit my Miele pre-motor filter and put in the bottom of the can between the motor and the bag of the Silverado. That's when I noticed that filter got very dirty very quickly with most of the bags available and there was a dusty smell in the air. Not there with the perfect bags, my only issue is the automatic shut off doesn't work so well with those because the air flow doesn't drop.

 

[human]

They're available for the Discovery/Epic/Genesis, etc. uprights but not the canisters, that I'm aware of.

 

[sekess]

Ah ok.

Thanks suckolux and human,

Steve

 

[real1shep]

They are.....

available through Aerus. They were sending me the pre-filters automatically on my card. I had to stop that because they were piling up. I don't change them with the same frequency as Aerus suggests. And personally, I think they're wrong on their change interval.

They fit in my Diamond J's, Super J and 1205...haven't tried them in the G yet because I quit using the G's.

Kevin

 

[sekess]

Cracked plastic

Well that stinks.
I didn't even get to the motor yet and there is a minor issue.
When I was removing the vacuum tubing from the rewind assembly, I noticed the tubing connection felt looser than I though t it should. So, I proceeded to remove the tubing very carefully. I got the tubing off without totally breaking off the plastic nub. But, it is cracked a lot. Not sure if I did it or if it was already cracked. I think it might have already been like that. But either way - it's just hanging on now. I have included a pic of the crack.

1. Is this a common failure that you guys know of?

2. Is there a reliable fix for this?

and

3. Are replacement plastic rewind housings available so that I can replace the entire back section?

Thanks guys,
Steve

 

[jo]

Ok so...

1. I haven’t seen this as common but might be occurring in this recent day and age as the plastic ages.

2. You can try to glue it with crazy glue. It works quite well on plastic parts and see how that goes. It’s not something that ever flexes or bends once installed so if it holds well enough to reassemble the cordwinder you should be good to go.

3. There are some listings on eBay where people take apart the entire machine and sell each part individually, you’ll likely be able to obtain used replacement parts through one of these listings.

Be careful if you do take the cordwinder cover off, you could cause the spring to unwind and that’s not a fun task, you’ll need to hold the cord pulled out a bit when removing the cover and don’t let it go! Also when reassembling you’ll need to make sure the hook looking device on the spool needs to be in the same position as when you take off the cover otherwise the cord won’t lock in the extended position. That hook looking device is the thing that locks the cord from zipping back in.

You’ll need a nut driver to unscrew to remove the motor, works best I find.

I see your terminal block is not burnt on the cordwinder. That’s fortunate. Just make sure that when you reassemble that the contacts are set so they make a definite positive contact when reassembled or you could have arcing occur.

When reassembling the cordwinder or the motor cover, be careful as the cover corners of both of these have a tendency to crack and possibly snap off around the screw holes.

Jon

 

[jo]

filters won’t work on older metal models

Those charcoal post bag, pre motor filters Aerus sells are useless on the vertical mount older metal models such as the model L, Model G and anything older, the bag chambers on those models have holes everywhere and so those filters would be useless on those models. The only work on the 1205 and newer horizontal oriented bag chamber models as the bag compartment has only one airway hole to the motor which this filter covers.

Jon

 

[jo]

And to add...

To further elaborate on number 3...Usually when something wears out on the cordwinder, just that part was replaced at the Aerus dealer. The whole cordwinder back end was not usually something that was replaced, the base of it which is the main part you see from the back of the machine, is not necessary to be replaced and is pretty much indestructible so they would just open it up and replace any internal parts as needed and close it back up again. So getting a whole new one will be next to impossible and is likely not needed. You might find a used one though. How is your cord and plug end? Aerus dealers even replace the cords on these alone. My Mom had hers replaced on her Golden Jubilee and when it died, I kept the back end in case my cord wore out on my Silverado, I could just change the spool with the newer lightly used cord.

Jon

 

[real1shep]

That can....

be mended with a good plastic epoxy(not JB Weld).....there's epoxy out there just for the task, albeit expensive.

Use a Dremel bit to groove out the cracked area...a V groove is best. Let epoxy joint cure for days....don't get in a hurry to reassemble.

Eastwood makes a heat kit that would actually pin that joint permanently....but since it's just the one place, that would be cost prohibitive.

Kevin

 

[sekess]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Do you guys know what kind of plastic this is (ABS, Polystyrene, etc..)?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[sekess]

So far - in searching ebay, I haven't found that part (cord rewind housing) for sale.

I'm thinking - my plan for this crack might be:

1. First, I'll try and glue or epoxy it. But, I will say - I have never had any luck with epoxies. They have always failed on me. Maybe I just never used a good enough product - not sure.

2. What I would actually like to do is cut the nub off flush and drill a hole where the nub used to be. Then, if I can find one, I'd like to install an appropriately sized bulkhead tubing adapter. It would be bolted and gasketed on so that it would create a nice seal. The issues I might have are - not sure if I can find the right sized bulkhead and more importantly - I'm not sure if there is enough room inside the housing at that spot for a nut to secure the fitting. I will know more when I open the winder up (which I'm not looking forward to-I'm having visions of the spring acting like one of those snakes-in-a-can.

So anyway - those are my thoughts at this point.

Let me also ask - what is the purpose of this vacuum tubing connection between the bag chamber and the cord rewinder housing?

Thanks,
Steve