recondition / replace gaskets, seals, etc

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vap0rtranz

vap0rtranz

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Dec 13, 2019
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Location
Wisconsin
What are folks' thoughts on reconditioning vs replacing gaskets, seals, etc.?

I've typically replaced but on some models it's hard to get replacements, usually because the gasket / seal sizes aren't made anymore, and even sources that say "will fit" actually need manhandling into place.

There's a lot of "chemists" online that look to doing more alchemy than science on old gaskets & seals. Suggestions range from heating / boiling in H20, to "marinating" in ammonia, applying brake fluid or petroleum jelly, to pitching some product ... the ideas are sometimes scary. I don't play lightly with chemicals like ammonia.

I realize methods depend on material: rubber vs nylon vs silicon vs foam gaskets / seals would probably need different reconditioning methods?

Or I switch to liquid / putty sealants and pray the sealant sets up right -- and doesn't get sucked into the vacuum -- and hope I never need to reseal the gap :)

Any success on making hard-as-plastic gaskets pliable again?
 
I've had very mixed results with soaking old rubber parts in Methyl salicylate and Isopropyl alcohol. Its the same minty "blend" used in many commercial rubber restorers. Caution does need to be taken when initially making your mix, as its toxic stuff in concentrated form.

It all depends on the initial condition.

I've had very stiff, but otherwise intact rubber gaskets turn flexible again; not new, but enough to seal. Notably, the once rock-hard ones in my air-way 55 are still sealing properly after the treatment, months later.

At the same time, if there's any significant cracking or rot, it ends up falling apart into a goopy mess, like some shrunken wheels and other parts I tried. It softens and expands while in the solution, and thats enough for the structural integrity to go out the window. The bits that survive will now be flexible, though!

The catch is the odor! Its eye wateringly strong after treatment, for days on end, and your part will forever have a lingering wintergreen whiff to it. I leave mine out in the sun for a while, until its tolerable.

My takeaway, its worth trying on parts that need to be replaced anyways.
 
They have rubber softener compounds. If the seals and gaskets are visually okay and are not completely falling apart to the touch, that would be when you use the rubber re-conditioner. If they are completely rotten away then that is when you need to carefully have it recreated.

ibasiac just made a video where he said he uses this stuff

I could not find it in the USA but I found a similar product.

https://tinyurl.com/3tkmvd3y
huskyvacs-2022071315420102113_1.png
 
I use Black Swan plumber's grease on gaskets. Such as the ring gasket on the Kirby emptor and on hose-ends. Not quite renovation, but it does lubricate them well, prevents pinching/kinking, and drying out. IBAISAIC's product seems to be similar. You'll certainly be able to get plumber's grease for rubber/silicone.
 
small world - ibasiac

Small world -- I was just watching ibasiac's vids. :)

That tinyURL link doesn't work for me. But Google-fu gave some results in USA that said Red Rubber Grease is great for rubber seals / gaskets. The website below basically summarizes what others say.

That begs the question: what material did manufacturer's use in vintage vacuums? Rubber? or Nylon? I'm restoring 1960's vacs.


https://www.redrubbergrease.com/
 
Black Swan

Thx Rowdy.

I looked up Black Swan's website. They themselves say it's: "Not for use on rubber or synthetic O-rings." :O

If my vintage vacs use rubber gaskets / seals, it sounds like I shouldn't use this. But it would be a good choice for gaskets / seals that Red Rubber Grease isn't made for.

Looks like my choice of restoring gaskets / seals comes down to matching material with specific re-conditioner, like:

rubber -> Red Rubber Grease
not-rubber -> Black Swan
 
It does get a bit complicated.
There are plumbers products for potable (drinking) water, non-potable (waste), rubber, plastics, silicone...

I've checked, and this one [Stock No.4120] is definitely for Rubber and Plastic 'O' Rings, gaskets, washers, and seals.

Because it's a Silicone Grease, it must follows that it'll suit silicone seals?

rowdy141-2022071416135202456_1.jpg
 
Forgot to add...
I think it's their RED LABEL grease which isn't suitable for everything. BLUE label is the one I go for. We have a choice of two flavours from Black Swan.

I've got a magnifier to read the back of the tin;

Black Swan's Silicone Grease is
formulated for many plumbing applications
including making hard turning faucets work smoothly and
lubricating stems of faucets, valves, ballcocks, etc.
Directions: For best results clean and dry before using.
Apply to rubber and synthetic 'o' rings, gaskets, faucet stems and
valves. Can be used on hot water or steam lines to 450°F.
BLACK SWAN MFG.CO.
CHICAGO, Il 60651

rowdy141-2022071416324501158_1.jpg
 
Well you do not want anything that leaves the rubber wet, or oily, or has a residue. Vacuums are dirty and pick up dirt and throw dirt and hairs all over, which would then stick to the grease.
 
Plumber's grease is designed to stay wet and oily to be waterproof so it can lubricate the fittings and not get washed away by the water so I do not believe that would be applicable for vacuums.
 
wet vs dry

Good point on dirt sticking to anything wet.

I'm less worried about dirt and more thinking that anything wet/goopy being injested by a motor -- especially for those seals intended to prevent such a thing from happening.

Maybe the reconditioning process for these gaskets & seals is to "marinate" / slather them in the reconditioner for awhile, clean off the reconditioner, and then re-install. If that's the way, that process takes a vacuum out of use for awhile ... but with multiple vacs that's not an issue :)

I think I'll go with a grease made for rubber, and clean off the goop before re-installing.
 
red vs blue

Ah, thx Rowdy. Red vs Blue label grease.

Reminds me of 3-in-1 red vs blue. Color matters -- it's not just marketing fluff, hah!

I'll still look for Black Swan's stuff. It's good to see they're based in Chicago, USA.
 
There was some kind of dry powder chalky type lubricant I remember someone saying they used on their Dyson stick vacs - but I can't remember at all what it was called. It was kind of like a flour texture almost. Maybe it was just talcum powder?
 
French Chalk does sound better than the grease I’ve been using.

There are (new to me) Silicone Dry Lubricants in aerosol cans.
Designed for bicycle chains etc.
That may be the way to go?
Of course, the choice is overwhelming. Each can says something different.
 

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