Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild

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Here’s a genuine OEM hose used

And here’s a very good hose OEM...used...I’d snap it up right away if you definitely are going to keep the vac and rehab it. Fits your machine!

Keep the hose handle from the old one though as a spare as it will fit the rubber hose if you ever end up damaging the handle. I can tell you how to properly remove it without damaging it. It removes opposite of what you’d think.

Jon

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Electric...774213?hash=item3b53e7dac5:g:q98AAOSwLTZf242d
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Hi Jon,
Excellent info - thanks.

That second ebay link (sheath) - are you sure that it is genuine? He listed it as unbranded.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Hi Jon,
Ok - snapped up hose as per your suggestion - thanks for the heads up.

Still looking into the sheath.

Steve
 
Hi Kevin,
I don't see those perfect bags on Amazon (at least after a quick search). Where do you usually buy those from?
Thanks,
Steve
 
I’ll have to look

At the sheath more closely. The ribs on the front side, if they are horizontal just like your current one, I believe that indicates it’s genuine, if it’s tiny little squares then it’s generic. Electrolux never stamped them with the Electrolux logo. I’ve not seen a lot of generic sheaths but when I have I’ve always noticed the ribbed pattern is different from the original. Perhaps Electrolux patented this characteristic.

Jon
 
Steve

Looking at the sheath photos closely I believe it is generic. Some things are definitely different than on the genuine. Maybe wait on this one. The ribs are horizontal but also the plastic doesn’t look as refined as the genuine. I have a lot of Electrolux models and most all parts are genuine. I can usually tell a generic part very quickly. Some generic parts do work ok though for a good long time, but it’s nice to have genuine.

Jon
 
The Vac America Clean (VAC) bags ARE Perfect bags. That's what comes in the new Perfect tank type. The best bag you can use in an Electrolux since they are HEPA bags and leak no dust. The genuine Aerus bags are terrible in comparison.
 
That's right.....

Tom! And the Aerus guy was in my house trying to sell me those paper bags....they weren't even the quality of some older paper ply bags I had. I told him I had HEPA bags. He said there was no such thing for Type C bags.

I got a handful out of the cupboard and showed him. He got out some paper and wrote down the name. Then he said they weren't really HEPA bags. At that point I asked him to leave my house for his own health.

@Steve:If you go into eBay and type 'Electrolux Type C bags"....the Perfect HEPA bags are the first listing you'll see(at least it was that way this morning).


Kevin
 
Electrolux Type C Bags Particle Emissions Test

Here's a comparison of three type "C" bags. The "Perfect" brand are clearly the best.

Average 0.3 um particle counts:
Initial Room = 5859, DVC Paper = 8400, V.A.C. HEPA = 1650, Perfect HEPA = 370

Electrolux Type C Bags Particle Emissions Test
 
I have the perfect bags in my Silverado, they are the only ones that don't allow something to escape onto the pre-motor filter which I put in. Every other one the filter is dirty over one use of a bag.
 
Hi Vaclab,
Nice video and a cool little meter.

That stinks - I just bought some V.A.C. bags this morning. I thought they were the same as the Perfect bags. The description said "Perfect C101 Hepa Vacuum Bags By V.A.C.".

Oh well. After I go through these - I'll have to do a more extensive search for the real Perfect bags.

Anyway - Thanks again - great video post,
Steve
 
Not that I am aware of Steve. I would cut to fit my Miele pre-motor filter and put in the bottom of the can between the motor and the bag of the Silverado. That's when I noticed that filter got very dirty very quickly with most of the bags available and there was a dusty smell in the air. Not there with the perfect bags, my only issue is the automatic shut off doesn't work so well with those because the air flow doesn't drop.
 
They are.....

available through Aerus. They were sending me the pre-filters automatically on my card. I had to stop that because they were piling up. I don't change them with the same frequency as Aerus suggests. And personally, I think they're wrong on their change interval.

They fit in my Diamond J's, Super J and 1205...haven't tried them in the G yet because I quit using the G's.

Kevin
 
Cracked plastic

Well that stinks.
I didn't even get to the motor yet and there is a minor issue.
When I was removing the vacuum tubing from the rewind assembly, I noticed the tubing connection felt looser than I though t it should. So, I proceeded to remove the tubing very carefully. I got the tubing off without totally breaking off the plastic nub. But, it is cracked a lot. Not sure if I did it or if it was already cracked. I think it might have already been like that. But either way - it's just hanging on now. I have included a pic of the crack.

1. Is this a common failure that you guys know of?

2. Is there a reliable fix for this?

and

3. Are replacement plastic rewind housings available so that I can replace the entire back section?

Thanks guys,
Steve

sekess-2020122117240404043_1.jpg
 
Ok so...

1. I haven’t seen this as common but might be occurring in this recent day and age as the plastic ages.

2. You can try to glue it with crazy glue. It works quite well on plastic parts and see how that goes. It’s not something that ever flexes or bends once installed so if it holds well enough to reassemble the cordwinder you should be good to go.

3. There are some listings on eBay where people take apart the entire machine and sell each part individually, you’ll likely be able to obtain used replacement parts through one of these listings.

Be careful if you do take the cordwinder cover off, you could cause the spring to unwind and that’s not a fun task, you’ll need to hold the cord pulled out a bit when removing the cover and don’t let it go! Also when reassembling you’ll need to make sure the hook looking device on the spool needs to be in the same position as when you take off the cover otherwise the cord won’t lock in the extended position. That hook looking device is the thing that locks the cord from zipping back in.

You’ll need a nut driver to unscrew to remove the motor, works best I find.

I see your terminal block is not burnt on the cordwinder. That’s fortunate. Just make sure that when you reassemble that the contacts are set so they make a definite positive contact when reassembled or you could have arcing occur.

When reassembling the cordwinder or the motor cover, be careful as the cover corners of both of these have a tendency to crack and possibly snap off around the screw holes.

Jon
 
filters won’t work on older metal models

Those charcoal post bag, pre motor filters Aerus sells are useless on the vertical mount older metal models such as the model L, Model G and anything older, the bag chambers on those models have holes everywhere and so those filters would be useless on those models. The only work on the 1205 and newer horizontal oriented bag chamber models as the bag compartment has only one airway hole to the motor which this filter covers.

Jon
 
And to add...

To further elaborate on number 3...Usually when something wears out on the cordwinder, just that part was replaced at the Aerus dealer. The whole cordwinder back end was not usually something that was replaced, the base of it which is the main part you see from the back of the machine, is not necessary to be replaced and is pretty much indestructible so they would just open it up and replace any internal parts as needed and close it back up again. So getting a whole new one will be next to impossible and is likely not needed. You might find a used one though. How is your cord and plug end? Aerus dealers even replace the cords on these alone. My Mom had hers replaced on her Golden Jubilee and when it died, I kept the back end in case my cord wore out on my Silverado, I could just change the spool with the newer lightly used cord.

Jon
 
That can....

be mended with a good plastic epoxy(not JB Weld).....there's epoxy out there just for the task, albeit expensive.

Use a Dremel bit to groove out the cracked area...a V groove is best. Let epoxy joint cure for days....don't get in a hurry to reassemble.

Eastwood makes a heat kit that would actually pin that joint permanently....but since it's just the one place, that would be cost prohibitive.

Kevin
 
Thanks for the responses guys.

Do you guys know what kind of plastic this is (ABS, Polystyrene, etc..)?

Thanks,
Steve
 
So far - in searching ebay, I haven't found that part (cord rewind housing) for sale.

I'm thinking - my plan for this crack might be:

1. First, I'll try and glue or epoxy it. But, I will say - I have never had any luck with epoxies. They have always failed on me. Maybe I just never used a good enough product - not sure.

2. What I would actually like to do is cut the nub off flush and drill a hole where the nub used to be. Then, if I can find one, I'd like to install an appropriately sized bulkhead tubing adapter. It would be bolted and gasketed on so that it would create a nice seal. The issues I might have are - not sure if I can find the right sized bulkhead and more importantly - I'm not sure if there is enough room inside the housing at that spot for a nut to secure the fitting. I will know more when I open the winder up (which I'm not looking forward to-I'm having visions of the spring acting like one of those snakes-in-a-can.

So anyway - those are my thoughts at this point.

Let me also ask - what is the purpose of this vacuum tubing connection between the bag chamber and the cord rewinder housing?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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