Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild

VacuumLand – Vintage & Modern Vacuum Enthusiasts

Help Support VacuumLand:

Ohh....

and if you do need to deepen the segments grooves, MM is correct as there will be an epoxy like substance there. You need like a draw knife of the correct thickness. They make commutator knives that are made for this purpose. I've always been able to find just the right blade size from cutting knives I have. Even so, it takes time and patience.

Kevin
 
Chucking an armature in a drill is sort of the fancy way of doing it. It's good for folks like me who have all the tools at their disposal, and random things like rubber hose laying around.

In my experience, most motors won't need more than a ScotchBrite pad, just to freshen it up. With or without a drill, but yes, if you do the sandpaper, I would do a second pass with the ScotchBrite afterwards. It's probably not absolutely necessary, though. You could get away with just the 660 grit.

As for contact cleaner, it really depends on the condition of the commutator. It it's in great shape, a wash with contact cleaner or brake cleaner would be plenty (and unnecessary). But most motors after having been used a while could use some freshening up with abrasives that will actually remove an oxide layer and possibly even out some very minor surface imperfections. Then you get motors that have more pronounced grooves which basically need to be machined to be perfect again.

It all depends. You don't *need* to do any of this. I bet the motor runs fine as it is. The goal is really just a thorough inspection, and responding to anything that needs attention.

Mind you, there are people that frown upon the use of abrasives. They are the same people that say no to abrasives on electrical contacts, and will tell you that you need to use an electrical contact cleaning strip... which is legit just a fancy piece of 500 grit. So yeah.
 
Hi MadMan,
Yea - that's what I will do. After opening it up, I'll decide how far to go with cleaning up the commutator based on its condition.
At the very least - I'll lubricate the sleeve bearing. Too bad it's not possible to grease the ball bearing. It would be nice to get some fresh grease in there - even if it is still spinning freely.
I'll know more once I get a little time to open her up all the way.

Thanks MAdMan,
Steve
 
Depending.....

on the ball bearing, you can re-grease them. Most have covered sides to keep the grease in. Those covers can be pried off gently with a dental pick by the outer edge of the seal, if they're not metal.

However, if you put a finger inside the inner race, push and rotate......and you feel any roughness whatsoever, I'd replace it.

Using a drill is not fancy, just convenient. Chucking up in a milling machine and doing a true 90 degree clean with a jig would be fancy. Most commutators are easy to clean with just the the sandpaper method and/or Scotchbrite. But even with Scotchbrite there are green, purple, brown(maybe more)....all have varying degrees of abrasives.

I think you get the idea. This has become sort of a pissing match of 'do this', 'do that'. All have their own range of usefulness and none of them really 'wrong'.....so just pick your poison....lol.

Kevin
 
Hey Kevin,
Oh - that's potentially good about the ball bearing - that I might be able to grease her up. And yea - if there's any roughness - I'll replace.

Thanks
 
Now - One issue that I know I have is with the the sheath for the power nozzle wand. At the top where the hose gets inserted, there is a springy circular metal piece of metal that catches and holds the hose end. That piece of metal is broken. there is no spring to it. There is the same gripping mechanism at the power nozzle itself. That one still works as it should. So what happens is - the hose doesn't stay in the sheath when you pull back, it easily slides out.

So, is that repairable? The spring steel piece doesn't look like it was meant to be repaired.

Thanks,
Steve
 
No

It’s better to change the upper wand altogether. The new style uses a click lock that locks in to the slots on the hose handle metal. There are two of those on the hose handle. The wand does come out and it is removable by putting a small screwdriver in the slot just below the spring clip release and pulling the clip upward and holding it upward while then pulling the wand out of the sheath. When you start this process however you have to push the wand in while pulling the little locking clip up with the small screwdriver. Also if your sheath is cracked near the power connection (typical) the newer ones were better reinforced snd thicker m so they won’t crack as easily so you may wish to change that too. How is your hose? I’d it’s the old braided one it may be due for replacement, there were notorious for coming apart internally and then leaking. You can test it eventually by covering the end of it with your hand while the vac is running. Open the blower door and see if there is air coming out with your other hand. If there is, the hose is leaking. Virtually no air should come out the exhaust if there are no leaks when the end of the hose is blocked off from suction.

Jon
 
Hi Jo,
Yes - it's the old braided style hose. I started taking some of the vac apart. So, I'll have to test it after things go back together. But either way, I was thinking about replacing the hose since I have heard that the rubber will most probably deteriorate if it hasn't already.
The plastic on the sheathing by the lower (and upper) is still intact - no cracks. But since the spring clip is broken, I'm going to need to replace it anyway.

Is there a particular place (online) that you guys like for buying hoses, wands, sheaths, etc?

Thanks for the info,
Steve
 
To get......

OE, buy used on eBay or someplace similar. Check out old vac shops in your area if applicable.

You could ask here too in the Super Market forum.

Kevin
 
Usually ebay

You’ll find in other threads about Electrolux hoses that opinions vary in the generic hoses. Personally I prefer the OEM ones. Used OEM vinyl hoses come up periodically on eBay and there are a few for your machine available now. The way you can tell the difference from an OEM versus generic is the hose handle. Only the OEM will have the round dial on the underside for the suction control. The generics will not have it or have some other sort of system. The vinyl hose is the only way to go, that you will find to be unanimous here. Aerus does sell the hose still for your machine if you prefer new and it’s $129.

You may not need to replace the sheath as the inner metal part that has the broken retaining spring for your handle slides out of it. But the new sheaths are nice as they also include a slide button on the opposite end should you wish to take the lower exposed metal wand off for storing. Again, here I’d go OEM...the generics do not have as high quality plastic.

You may wish to bypass the terminal block as you remove the cordwinder. You’ll notice it is attached to the inside side of the metal body and makes the electrical connection between the unit and the cordwinder.. Aerus sells a bypass kit. The terminal blocks became problematic and a known source of arcing and were discontinued for a direct wired system. It is something you can install yourself and is inexpensive. My Dad and I did it to our Golden Jubilee when I was just a teenage and I’m 51 now! The Electrolux rep was very nice and told us how to do it. All we needed was a drill and a screwdriver.

Just thinking ahead since you have the machine apart so you can give it a “full overhaul”.

Also replacing the brush on the power nozzle will do wonders for you if you’ve never replaced it. It will almost self propel itself with a new brush roll!

Bristle strips are available if your floor brush is worn. WD-40 works great on the rug and floor tool swivel elbow to make that swivel much better. Genuine horsehair bristles are available for the combination upholstery tool/dusting brush if yours is worn...you don’t need a whole new tool.

WD-40 is great for the wheels too especially the front swivel one to keep it working well and quiet.

The automatic control should be set between 2 and 4 for regular cleaning, a lower number will trigger it to open sooner and a higher number will keep it from opening too soon. However, the cleaner should not be run continuously in 5 or 6 as it will wear out your motor. Some people think the bag should be stuffed before changing and hence use 6. This is wrong and will burn out your motor.maths bag needs some empty space to pass air through effectively to cool the motor and should be changed when the system triggers in the 2-4 range normally depending on your cleaning needs. 5 and 6 can be used to override the system for fine dust such as plaster or ash to complete the job and 1 is usually for people who have lots of shedding pets. If you have a lot of carpet use a lower number, it will insure that your are not running the machine with low suction due to a bag being blocked by too much dirt in it. It will stop when the suction goes down enough to reduce the efficiency needed for thorough rug cleaning. Higher numbers are ok for hardwoods as you don’t need as good of suction efficiency for that type of cleaning so up you can allow the machine to run less efficiently for longer and bag with more dirt.

Make sure you are using genuine or 4 ply bags. The two ply generics are horrible and usually have a plain cardboard top with no printing on the top. The 4 ply multi filter brand ones are pretty good but Aerus claims their current 2 ply bags are far better but some debate that on here. I think both will be fine. But again, the 2 ply cheap ones are the worst and I’d stay away from those for sure.

Jon
 
Here’s a genuine OEM hose used

And here’s a very good hose OEM...used...I’d snap it up right away if you definitely are going to keep the vac and rehab it. Fits your machine!

Keep the hose handle from the old one though as a spare as it will fit the rubber hose if you ever end up damaging the handle. I can tell you how to properly remove it without damaging it. It removes opposite of what you’d think.

Jon

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Electric...774213?hash=item3b53e7dac5:g:q98AAOSwLTZf242d
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Hi Jon,
Excellent info - thanks.

That second ebay link (sheath) - are you sure that it is genuine? He listed it as unbranded.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Hi Jon,
Ok - snapped up hose as per your suggestion - thanks for the heads up.

Still looking into the sheath.

Steve
 
Hi Kevin,
I don't see those perfect bags on Amazon (at least after a quick search). Where do you usually buy those from?
Thanks,
Steve
 
I’ll have to look

At the sheath more closely. The ribs on the front side, if they are horizontal just like your current one, I believe that indicates it’s genuine, if it’s tiny little squares then it’s generic. Electrolux never stamped them with the Electrolux logo. I’ve not seen a lot of generic sheaths but when I have I’ve always noticed the ribbed pattern is different from the original. Perhaps Electrolux patented this characteristic.

Jon
 
Steve

Looking at the sheath photos closely I believe it is generic. Some things are definitely different than on the genuine. Maybe wait on this one. The ribs are horizontal but also the plastic doesn’t look as refined as the genuine. I have a lot of Electrolux models and most all parts are genuine. I can usually tell a generic part very quickly. Some generic parts do work ok though for a good long time, but it’s nice to have genuine.

Jon
 

Similar threads

B
Help with 1987 Electrolux Marquise Motor
2
Replies
20
Views
21
brownvacuum1987
B
H
HELP with Electrolux Aerus Identification
Replies
6
Views
7
justjunque
justjunque
J
HELP! New member, sick e'lux 1205.
Replies
19
Views
20
real1shep
R
electrolux137
MAMA'S ELECTROLUX
Replies
15
Views
30
real1shep
R
N
my review of the Electrolux Ultra One Classic
Replies
0
Views
65
n0oxy
N

Latest posts

Back
Top