Received the new Turbopower 1000 motor, but have a problem...

[jmurray01]

Thank you for taking the time to do that but it doesn't shed any light on it from my reckoning...

 

[madabouthoovers]

I have just checked the Buyspares website - and the motor from your 2812 will be the same as that in the 2106, so they both use the same motors. That little gizmo on the brown wire is a thermostat apparently, so I would think it would be in the live wire to the motor. I dont think the motor controls the autosense feature. I would ring the guy up that sold it to you and tell him what wires you have and let him suggest how the Ametek wires up.

 

[vintagerepairer]

There you go Jamie. Thanks to Beko you can see the lead you have spare is a 12v supply to the printed circuit board (PCB). The motor has a 12V 'tap' into it, that is to say that the motor acts as a transformer to reduce the mains voltage to 12v to power the PCB. Without that tap on the motor, you can't connect the PCB lead, but it should be perfectly safe to connect the motor to the blue and brown terminals to see if it will run on full power without a live PCB.

 

[madabouthoovers]

Ok Jamie it looks like from that diagram that the red wire supplies the Autosense PCB a 12v supply from the motor's step down windings. The brown wire connects to one side of the motor and the blue/black wire to the other terminal. without a terminal for the red wire the autosense pcb wont work? could be wrong but thats what that wiring diagram suggests to me.

 

[jmurray01]

So I don't need that wire necessarily, that's good, but how do I wire it up then ? The cables don't have anywhere they can fit into the motor as it stands and I'm not sure if I'm meant to do something with those metal "prongs" I have pictured...

 

[madabouthoovers]

well looks like someone else got there before me then - that wiring diagram was very useful.

 

[vintagerepairer]

I see 4 terminals. The carbon brushes are currently connected to two of them. To the either side of taht is where the mains lead connects.

 

[jmurray01]

Not unless I can figure out how to physically get the cables to attach to the motor it ain't...

 

[jmurray01]

Yes I know but there are no protruding terminals to attach the two power cables to.

 

[madabouthoovers]

He is right - you need to connect your brown wire to one terminal, and the blue wire to the other terminal. The black wire leads to the pressure sensor for the bag full inicator. Without that 12V feed though, none of the autosense lights will work, and I doubt the bag full light will work either.

 

[madabouthoovers]

arent the terminals at the 4 oclock and 11 o clock positions in the top picture on the white part?

 

[vintagerepairer]

Jamie I don't know what the terminal can possibly be like if there is nothing sticking up. What are those silver terminals like then?

 

[madabouthoovers]

The terminals dont necessarily have to be the compatible ones for your spade connectors - you may need to change the connectors or solder them on

 

[jmurray01]

I have a picture of them if you check up at the near top of the page.

I tested and the "fork" ends do slot into the "non-protruding" terminals so maybe I'm meant to cut them into separate terminals and the cable slots into that ?

 

[vintagerepairer]

Yes that sounds about right. Split them and you should find one end fits the motor and the other fits the spade on your cable.

 

[madabouthoovers]

those in pic 4? I think you may be right - are they made of metal, its a bit difficult to tell from the picture? if so, then maybe you have it.

 

[jmurray01]

Yep, metal.

I'll go and do that in a minute.

Thanks guys! Most appreciated, but stay on the line, I may be back with more issues (it is Murphy's law with me!)

 

[vintagerepairer]

I wouldn't have said Murphys Law but it does seem to work as well. Don't get blowing yourself up.

 

[madabouthoovers]

I'll be here - but dont expect miracles - I dont know how that autosense module is wired, and it may use 12v operated relays - so may not work the motor at all. Wire the motor up, then switch on the main switch, if nothing happens, then try prssing the boost switch, it may override the PCB to power the motor at full speed. I dont think you will blow it up if you follow logic and that wiring diagram which you should thank Beko for as it shed a lot of light on our little problem.

 

[beko1987]

Not a problem

and I'm glad it was of some use. Is this the motor that shed it's armature? Couldn't you swap them around, providing the measurements stack up?