INFO: Replacing your Eureka/Sanitaire Lower Bearing? Read first!

VacuumLand – Vintage & Modern Vacuum Enthusiasts

Help Support VacuumLand:

azchrisf

Member
Joined
May 6, 2025
Messages
8
Location
AZ
Hello Everyone,

I wanted to chime in here for anyone who may come across this thread in time with a warning:

If you are replacing the lower bearing on a Eureka or Sanitaire, don't buy the bottom plate w/ the bearing already installed that is
scattered around the Internet.

I needed to repair my S663, I did this and it took me down a rabbit hole the last 2 months to figure out why I couldn't get spacing to matchup, despite the parts appearing the same. The problem with the plate that is advertised for "all Eureka/Sanitaire vacs" or certain models, is that the bearing plate w/ retainer is for the Chinese "metal motor" copy made by Titan, and sold on eBay and several other vacuum shops online - what they are using is about 1.5mm too short compared to Sanitaire's, which causes the armature to ride high and the brushes hit the very bottom of the commutator, not where they are designed. It's shorter because the Chinese armature is different as well - it's actually a good copy, but it means nothing if the damn parts don't follow the same measurements so they can be repaired/interchanged. You could use 1.5mm spacers between the bottom and top motor housings too I suppose if desperate...

The bearing retainers are very simple, just a piece of ~32mm diameter sheet metal stamped ~10.5mm deep for the 608-2RS bearing.
Finding all that out, I had to hack up my existing plate to get the retainer out, push out the existing bad bearing, get rid of the staking, and then push/seat a new one back in. You can do all this with sockets and a vise like I did. Since it was riveted in, drilling worked on 2 heads, but the last I had to chisel out once the top spun. You can use screws and nuts to hold it back in place, but most stuff is too long and hits the windings, I found using 3mm wide, 4mm deep (6mm head) Chicago screws works perfectly (another plate I had the holes measured smaller than 3mm, so get what fits in the hole for your plate - if you have 3m I'll send you some free, just pay the postage). Mine measured something like 3.2x mm, and that's fine. Make sure to threadlock them.

So yeah, just a FYI for every Eureka/Sanitaire lover that wants to keep their baby purring.
 
Also another tip that gets forgotten - those metal pulleys that the belt rides on that are on the end of the motor shaft can wear down microscopically in high mileage vacuums. This will cause the belt to have too much slack and no grip and the belt will constantly fall off and never want to stay on, even when every other part is replaced or 100% correct. There's posts on here about it, but I can't find it on the new site.

There is a big problem with Chinese aftermarket parts. All they seem to be doing is copying diagrams and schematic measurements off old service manuals and not copying the actual original OEM part real-world, so its creating a lot of size discrepancy an stuff not lining up.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top