Ok, I would like to know how to replace the bearings on my electrolux CB (blue one). I know how to get to the motor, but have no idea how to replace the bearings. Also, What kind of bearings should I buy?, Is there anything else I should do to the motor besides replace the bearings and brushes?, What kind of motor brushes do I need? I understand this machine uses the same motor as the 1205 but I have never serviced an Electrolux motor. Thanks in advance. =D
I need help...
- Thread starter kirbyduh
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electrolux-dude
Well-known member
Hi, Lane, I can help. To get to the bearings, after you have removed the motor from the machine, first remove the fan housings and fans from the motor. The fan housings have 4 long screws on them, usually flat-head screws. Remove these 4 screws, then loosen the big nut in the center of the fan. If I recall correctly the socket size is 1/2 inch. After you have removed the nut, then the top fan will pull off. Remove the top fan, and then remove the lower fan housing and then remove the bottom fan. You will now see the bearing plate. It is usually held on by 3 screws, usually phillips heads on them. The screws, depending on the model of the vacuum, will either be on top of the housing around the edges of the housing or if not, they will be on the bottom side of your motor, the same side as the armature. After you have removed the screws the bearing plate should slide off. To gain access to the bearing you will have to drill out the 2 pop-rivets, and then remove the 2 bearing covers. Then you can usually push the bearing out. If it is a little hard I just tap it out. For bearing replacements, I usually try to get replacement bearings of good quality, with rubber seals. If I recall correctly the bearing size is "608-2RS". While you have your motor apart it's a good idea to wash the fans out with an old brush and warm soapy water. Blow out any dirt in the inside of the motor with an air compressor. If it's excessively dirty go ahead and use an old brush and warm soapy water to wash it out. Clean the insides of the carbon brush housings with an old brush and some lime-away, as you want the housings to be free from any carbon build up which could cause your brushes to stick. Carbon brushes should still be in fairly good shape, if the motor is the same as a 1205 the brushes usually in them are still good. If the motor is the Super-J style, the brushes in them will be wider than a 1205's brushes. Also if the motor is the Super-J style, check the armature, as Super-J armatures tend to go bad quite a bit and will have to be replaced. Carbon brushes should be available at any vacuum store, just take one of the old ones with you so the store can match it up. With a good cleaning, if you will follow my directions carefully, your vacuum should run like new! If I can be of further assistance feel free to contact me by e-mail: [email protected].
Sincerely,
Nathan L. Thomas
Electrolux-Dude
Sincerely,
Nathan L. Thomas
Electrolux-Dude
kirbylux77
Well-known member
One thing you forgot Nathan....
Kirbyduh, if you have one, use an armature resurfacing stone to remove excess carbon dust buildup on the motor while you have it out- it will help prolong the life of the armature.
Rob
Kirbyduh, if you have one, use an armature resurfacing stone to remove excess carbon dust buildup on the motor while you have it out- it will help prolong the life of the armature.
Rob
electroluxtank
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2011
- Messages
- 43
In most cases the bearings in an electrolux are still good, it is just the grease is all dried out.
The armature end is easy to relube, the fan end has one removing the fans and stators.
Since the bearing only costs 50 cents, it is easier to replace than relube the fan bearing since one has already burned the labor to get to it.
***In only about 10 percent or less of the tanks that I have taken apart required a new fan ball bearing, and that was with Model G's etc that went under salt water in Katrina.
***As far as brushes, the model G my mom bought in 1966 still has its same brushes, none of the many ebay or thrift store lux tank vacs I have bought needed brushes.
Once we paid to have some in before, it was my grandmothers old XXX that is used today more like a shop vac. She bought it roughly about before WW2 started. We inherted it about 1963 and it got 2 new bearings, switch and brushes and a new loose cord 1971 for a mighty 17.58 with tax. Labor was 5.00 bucks of this
The fan end bearing is a either 8 or 9mm bore; it is an 8mm if a newer model it changed during the model G run. A 9mm bore is roughly pre 1961 ish.
The rear bearing by the armature is a sleeve bearing if newer, a 7mm ball bearing if real old say model XXX.
The 8mm bearing in the fan end is one of the most produced ball bearing on the planet, ie a rollerskate bearing. The volumes are so high that the bearing cost is nil.
The armature end is easy to relube, the fan end has one removing the fans and stators.
Since the bearing only costs 50 cents, it is easier to replace than relube the fan bearing since one has already burned the labor to get to it.
***In only about 10 percent or less of the tanks that I have taken apart required a new fan ball bearing, and that was with Model G's etc that went under salt water in Katrina.
***As far as brushes, the model G my mom bought in 1966 still has its same brushes, none of the many ebay or thrift store lux tank vacs I have bought needed brushes.
Once we paid to have some in before, it was my grandmothers old XXX that is used today more like a shop vac. She bought it roughly about before WW2 started. We inherted it about 1963 and it got 2 new bearings, switch and brushes and a new loose cord 1971 for a mighty 17.58 with tax. Labor was 5.00 bucks of this
The fan end bearing is a either 8 or 9mm bore; it is an 8mm if a newer model it changed during the model G run. A 9mm bore is roughly pre 1961 ish.
The rear bearing by the armature is a sleeve bearing if newer, a 7mm ball bearing if real old say model XXX.
The 8mm bearing in the fan end is one of the most produced ball bearing on the planet, ie a rollerskate bearing. The volumes are so high that the bearing cost is nil.
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