Golden J Repair Question

VacuumLand – Vintage & Modern Vacuum Enthusiasts

Help Support VacuumLand:

vacumaniac

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
545
I have begun tearing down the Golden J as it smells as though something was cleaned up that should not have been.... At any rate, this is likely a laughable question but I am perplexed at how to open up the tank past this point. Both as far as removing the bag compartment area and accessing the motor as well. Any help would be greatly appriciated!

vacumaniac++6-11-2011-17-04-40.jpg
 
That is a great link!

Wish I had taken more pictures of the more messy stages of my rebuilds. If this helps I was able to find the clear tubing and a lot of replacement washers and screws at Lowes after looking everywhere. :)Tyler
 
Well I have the entire machine apart and have soaked all the parts I can to get rid of the stench (it appears to have worked). However, removing the cordwinder was a bit difficult, I pulled a bit to hard and slightly bent (see 1st pic) one of the copper leads. Unlike the very helpful link above, the copper leads appear to connect directly to the apparatus in pic #2. I am a bit stumped on how to put this back together, and if the bent lead is going to cause a major issue...

vacumaniac++6-12-2011-15-42-45.jpg
 
It looks to me as if the brass connector on the cordwinder assembly somehow soldered itself to the junction block on the body. From the pictures, it looks like the mating surface of the lug on the junction block has a small "hole or dent" - am I correct? You may have to dress the two points of connection lightly with sand paper. You can re-bend the brass connector then and should be fine.

This may explain the difficulty of removing the cordwinder assembly. You'll have to work gingerly, as the leads won't take a lot of stress bending and re-bending.
 
Yes, on the junction block there is a small hole in the third area above the yellow wire. I was confused as to why the first two areas appear solid (ie no hole) it alomst looked as if something was missing....
 
Also, yes there are marks on the brass lead showing that there would be a mating between the two (hole and lead). The concern I have as you can see here in the 2nd pic is that there is a small flange that snaps into a channel on the cord winder. I certainly do not want to break the copper, is there a trick to bend it and get it snapped in channel???

vacumaniac++6-12-2011-16-26-31.jpg
 
If I were doing it, I would take two needle nosed pliers and bend the brass until it is reshaped. Then, I would position it inside the flange. As long as the two surfaces make good contact, the leads really don't have to be perfect looking. When reassembling the two units, I would try to not install and reinstall the two halves too many times. Otherwise they leads might break.
 
Everything will be fine.

If by the off chance something did happen you could get a new corwinder and install the original gold outer facia onto it and just do a little rewire with connectors and a crimping tool. It is very interesting that my tanks even the identical same on the outside have differsnt connections on the inside. One has the "plug in" type as on yours and the other has male leads on the corwinder and female leads on wiring running from the front. So you could change it if you had to by drilling out the rivets and removing the connector mounted to the tank. The holes would not show because they are under the side bumper strip. :) Tyler
 
By the way.......

.......I am envious of you getting to rebuild that great Electrolux. I was born in Milwaukee. I really like WI.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top