Electrolux Special Edition 1623

[paul]

Hi,

I scored a Craigslist freebie recently ... a late 1980s Special Edition 1623 (non-automatic) by Electrolux Corporation. I couldn't believe that a refined-looking and -acting woman had such a beat-up and extra-dirty vacuum cleaner! Even though I'm sure it was a spare it's still hard to fathom that she didn't at least wipe it off before putting it in her minivan and giving it to me. Just saying ...

She included the original attachments: the power nozzle, model 7B; the plastic wand sections; dusting brush/upholstery tool; and the short crevice nozzle. It also has a genuine replacement vinyl hose, which is probably 10-15 years old going by the yellowing.

Anyway, I'm attempting to get the motor cleaned and re-lubed along with repairing some body parts. This is my first Lexan-bodied cylinder vac, so I'm in unexplored territory and need some information/tips on these items:

1) The bag door is partially secured in the hinge. Is there a pin that's missing or broken, or is it a busted nub?

2) The diffuser catch (see the last couple photos below) has been broken off. Is there a solution besides replacing the whole top?

I've disinfected the outside with diluted bleach so included some pics of the disassembled top pieces.

 

[eurekastar]

This is how they door hinge should look. The photos are of an Epic 6000, but the hinge should still be same. In the very center, on the underside, is a removable cover that protects two wires and a plastic tube going into the bag door.

 

[paul]

Thanks, Bill.

I removed the front lid and found the removable cover you mentioned (mine lacks the tube, because it's not automatic). After getting the yellow wire back in its channel, the door works as it should. There is still a fair amount of play in the door connection (what I'd incorrectly called a hinge), but it seems that's the way it was designed.

I obviously obtained a DIYer's machine, because of the aforementioned misplaced wire, the uneven edge of the back end where someone used a screwdriver to remove the back lid multiple times or just poked around trying to locate the tabs, misconnected wires that kept the cleaner from turning on, and bumpers not fitted correctly on the body connectors. Anyway, I'm enjoying getting the cleaner back in shape.

I do have another question. How can I increase the tension of the cord winder?

Thanks again.

 

[quebecois]

I don't know exactly how you could gain access to the cord spool itself for that specific model, but once you did, you simply have to pull one foot of cord out of the reel and wind it on the spool and test the tension by pulling at least 6 foot of cord out. If you're not satisfied, do it again until tension is good enough.

 

[paul]

Thanks, Francois.

I don't want to break anything while attempting to access the cord, so hopefully someone else will let me know how to disassemble the plastic frame.

 

[quebecois]

I found these instructions that may apply to your model as well.

http://blog.evacuumstore.com/post/2010/03/15/How-to-open-an-Electrolux-Canister.aspx

 

[real1shep]

With vacs and chainsaws, I have bought unbelievably dirty units. With chainsaws you can kinda expect it, although a few minutes with an air compressor does wonders.


 


With dirty vacs...many people treat them like condoms in that when they get dirty/used, they dispose of them. I don't know if they were raised that way or a phobia about dirt etc. And I don't really care if I'm buying local....but for someone to send me a filthy vac off eBay et al, resplendent with the bag full of their dirt.....that seller should be publicly caned.


 


Kevin

 

[quebecois]

Also found this video for another model but I think yours have the same retaining strips on each side.



If yours is equipped with a similar cord winder, you will have to open the winder case to improve the rewinding strength.

 

[eurekastar]

You can get the cord winder apart. The pins holding it together are very stiff. You have to simultaneously bend the pin down while also pulling apart the two halves of the housing. I've get one pin started and then wedge a screwdriver in to keep it separated then move to the adjacent pin. I've only been able to get it apart by doing two at the same time.

 

[paul]

Thanks for the responses, Francois, Kevin, & Bill.

Well, I managed to increase the tension after breaking one of the pins in my attempt to open the cord winder frame. Oh well.

Before putting the two halves of the cord winder frame together, I tested it and it worked great. So I reassembled the frame, resecured it in the body channels, and tested it again. However, it was lackluster. So, I disassembled the frame again and it worked like a charm. I couldn't figure out the reason until I refocused my blank stare and noticed a couple indents in the plastic that didn't seem to be factory-made (see photos). It seems as though they are recessed enough to hinder the movement of the reel.

Consequently, I'm either going to break out the damaged areas or replace the cord winder.

 

[quebecois]

I'd personally break out the damaged section, or I'd get in a little challenge heating it up so it starts to melt enough to correct its shape...

 

[eurekastar]

Buy a new one!

I too would break out the damaged segments that are binding up the cord or just buy a new one! LOL!

http://https//onlinevacshop.com/pro...ord-reel-with-cord-le-hi-tech-thru-epic-6500/

 

[paul]

Surprisingly, the plastic was pliable enough for me to bend it back with a paint can opener, which freed the cord winder to operate as it should.

I can't imagine how those dents were made.

Next step, is cleaning the motor and repacking the bearings. Any tips?

 

[eurekastar]

Motor servicing

Start by removing the fan stages first. Once the fans are separated, then remove the motor brushes. On each brush there is a tab on the end. Bend it down with a screw driver the pull the brush out with pliers by pulling on the tab. Next remove the screws that hold the motor bridge onto the field. Everything will completely separate at that point. You'll need to use a bearing puller to remove the bearing on the commutator end. For the fan bearing, you'll need to drill out the rivets. Alternate back and forth between each rivet, rinsing it under cold water. That way you won't overheat and melt the plastic. A new bearing will pop right in. You can secure the bearing retainer with new pop rivets. The commutator bearing will need to be tapped on. I always use a fan pulley from a Kirby vacuum, because you'll need to tap in on the inside race only. I hope this helps. There is a simple trick to reinstall the brushes without using a special tool. When you get to that part, I can walking you through that!

 

[real1shep]

 Always press a bearing on if at all possible. Even tapping on the inner race can cause minute damage.


 


Kevin

 

[paul]

Thanks for the advice, Bill & Kevin. I need to get a bearing puller and pop rivets. What size are the rivets?

 

[paul]

Will a Kirby bearing puller work?

 

[eurekastar]

Bearing Puller

Yes, a Kirby bearing puller will work perfectly! You will need to tap the new bearing back on. The tolerances are too tight to push on.

This is the rivet that I use. Be sure to buy some back up washers as well.

 

[real1shep]

<a name="start_36472.390953"></a>The tolerances are too tight to push on.



 


Then you heat up the bearing or put the shaft in the freezer....come on guy.



 


Kevin