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Marcus - If you want to feel how strong your Miele canister's airflow is, hold your hand up to the underside of the rug nozzle. It will surprise you how strong the airflow is, even after going thru the hose & wand.

As for the Baird being a good way to measure airflow? No, I don't think it is. One has to remember that the Baird meter was designed for Kirby salesmen to cheat & show off how strong the Kirby's airflow is while giving a demonstration. It is designed to make the Kirby look good & impress a customer, NOT to be accurate. Bill, my apologies if that offends you, I do appreciate you doing your airflow tests & they are interesting. I just feel that a digital airflow meter would be a better way to measure a vacuum's airflow than the Baird meter would be.

Stan - "I don't know of any canister that has a power nozzle that seals to the carpet". Oh really, eh? Well, I do know two canisters that seal to the carpet. Check out this video of the Plush Pro nozzle on the latest Panasonic canisters, you can CLEARLY see the regular Panasonic PN design sealing to the ultra plush carpeting & impossible to move.
And here's another video that shows a Simplicity Gusto sealing to the ultra plush carpet before adding the adapters to convert it to use on ultra plush. And let's not forget the Wessell Werk EBK360 SoftClean powerhead that was designed specifically because they seal to ultra plush carpeting. The reason you feel that "seal" more when using a Kirby or Royal is because the weight of the motor is pushing the powerhead down into the carpeting, but that doesn't mean a canister isn't capable of sealing to a carpet as well, it's just you don't feel it as much.

Bill - Sorry, but you shouldn't have picked a Miele as your example vacuum to demonstrate your point. The airflow losses you are proposing just aren't realistic, in this case. Today's canisters, for the most part, have done away with buttonlockers for the hose & wand connections, & they have been replaced with clips like the Miele you show. The only ones that use buttonlockers, to my knowledge, are Kenmore/Panasonic canisters & the Riccar Prima/Simplicity Wonder, amongst residential canisters. The reason for this is twofold: 1. To improve indoor air quality & make the canister a sealed filtration system. Now, most canister vacuums, when they say their HEPA Filtration is part of a certified sealed system, it's not just the canister & filter that is sealed, it's the ENTIRE vacuum. It's not just dirty air that can escape around the filter that is an issue, it's also how much dust & dirt the powerhead kicks back up into the air instead of the airflow picking it up & carrying it to the bag & filter system. In addition to the powerhead needing to be sealed & making efficient use of the vacuum's airflow, the wands & hose connections themselves must be sealed, otherwise it will reduce the efficiency of the powerhead if all the airflow doesn't go to it, & any air that escapes from the wand is also dirty air that will escape unfiltered & pollute the room air. It's a issue all the manufacturers are starting to take seriously. Tacony introduced a hose & wand seal for the Prima & Wonder called "Seal Tite", & Electrolux AB has silicone seals around the hose & wand connections as well. Therefore, unlike your second results claim, it is VERY realistic for a modern canister like a Miele to have 120 CFM at the nozzle, & to clean just as well as a Kirby

And as for waterlift not affecting carpet cleaning & airflow & agitation being more important? Again, I disagree there. If you look at a vacuum motor's performance charts, you will see a direct correlation to vacuum motors that have higher waterlift numbers also having high airflow numbers. When viewed on a chart, it's clear that waterlift & airflow CFM rise & fall in correlation to each other. So, in short, if the motor isn't producing high waterlift, it isn't producing high airflow to properly clean.

Rob
 
Rob,

I challenge you to prove me wrong. Really, please prove me wrong. I want to see some airflow numbers from the almighty Mieles please!

And I do use a digital anemomter, a GM8901 in fact. How on Earth do you think I've produced my airflow numbers these last few years?

Oh, and as for the Baird meter being designed to "fake" people out that Kirby has high airflow, here's where you don't understand the TWO ways a Baird can measure airflow.

#1) From the body of a Kirby. Of course a dirty air fan system measured right from the fan intake will show a "10". This measurement can only be done with a modern "G" series machine because of the adapter provided on one end on the tester.

#2) From the end of a hose. Did you know that most newer Kirbys still pull more airflow from the end of their hose than any other vacuum out there? My Sentria II pulls above a "10" (actual 120 CFM measured digitally).

Now, I'm very sorry if I've offended you or anyone else in this forum, but I've read far too many posts that claim completely false things about the Baird meter and I've had just about enough of it! That meter, when plugged into the end of a hose cannot tell what type or brand of machine it's hooked up to. Only in case #1 can someone see a measurement that may or may not be "unfair" to other machines.

Regarding the correlation you claim with high airflow means high water lift, please explain the below:

Kirby Sentria II (dirty air)
Nozzle airflow: 137 CFM
Water lift: 34"

Hoover custom convertible (dirty air)
Nozzle airflow: 107 CFM
Water lift: 25"

Hoover Tempo Widepath (clean air)
Nozzle airflow: 80 CFM
Hose airflow: 106 CFM
Water lift: 80"

Do you see the pathetically low water lift and outrageously high airflow in these two dirty air machines? If you take the airflow and put it through tubing and various other connections, you'd better have more water lift to keep that airflow going or it will drop like a stone, but no matter what you do with a canister type machine that airflow will always be worse than most direct air machines.

Remember, I'm the testing nutjob that built his own airflow box and grabbed an digital anemometer to produce results like this:

wyaple++4-3-2017-20-50-24.jpg
 
Quite contradictory

Doesn't want to offend, yet calls someone a nut job, causes offense. Sublimation that intent was to offend.
 
Well Rob,


 


I was going to point out all the things you got wrong in your post #29 but Bill beat me to it.  It's better that he correct all of your misinformation because he has all of those measurements that he has so painstakingly gathered over time to back him up.


 


Bill, thanks again for creating and updating all of those charts of measurements that I and many other Vacuumlanders have come to refer to time and time again.


 


 
 
It's an interesting debate. I still think the Kirby will have the most airflow along with Royal but a Miele C3 will still have enough airflow to clean carpets very well.
 
Bill - I don't have the exact CFM & waterlift numbers for the Miele C3 canisters right on hand, I will have to do some digging around & see what I can find. But, then again, might I remind you that you yourself claim to know this....after all, it was YOU in your reply posts 25 & 26 that claims to have the actual numbers.

As for your testing & the Baird meter, again I do appreciate your tests & find them interesting. I was not aware you use a digital anemometer in addition to the Baird meter as part of your tests. However, I still do not believe the Baird meter, regardless of how it is used to test a vacuum or which vacuum is being tested, & do not believe it can be relied on as a accurate measuring tool to measure vacuum airflow, & as I said above, it is designed to produce false airflow number designed to make a Kirby look good during a in-home demonstration. It's bad enough, I personally think it should be banned!

Regarding the correlation between high waterlift & high airflow CFM numbers for vacuum motors, & how you need high waterlift to produce high airflow CFM, I was referring directly to clean air vacuum motors, the type used in canisters & clean air uprights. I was NOT referring to direct air motors, as there is hardly any produced anymore, & those that are don't publish those numbers.

Furthermore, the Hoover Tempo & Hoover Convertible you point out as your examples are actually BAD examples, & go to prove even more what I am talking about here. What your testing DOES NOT account for, & this is crucial, is how well the cleaner maintains it's airflow as the bag fills. Regarding direct-air uprights, the ONLY ones that don't drastically lose airflow as the bag fills are ones that have a bell-shaped powerhead, such as Kirby, Royal, & the designs used by GE & others in the 30's & 40's. The other designs....side mounted motor with fan on one side/belt on the other, such as Oreck, Hoover Elite, Eureka Bravo, etc....& bottom mounted fan & belt, such as Eureka F&G & Hoover Convertible, all of them lose their power VERY QUICKLY, with the bag being only 1/4 or 1/3 full before they lose 60 to 70% of the airflow they have. Most bagged clean-air uprights, with some exceptions are just as bad, due to gravity. With the vast majority of them, dirt enters the top of the bag, falls to the bottom, & starts building up on top of the motor vent & pre-motor filter inside the bag, which in turn suffocates the motor & chokes off the airflow, again most having only 60 to 70% airflow left with a bag being only 1/4 or 1/3 full. Canister vacuums, on the other hand, do NOT have this issue, since the bag is on it's side inside the vac, which means they maintain their airflow better than clean-air uprights. Provided the canister in question has a properly designed bag chamber, & HEPA Cloth bags are used, it will outclean a clean-air upright & match the performance of a Kirby or Royal. The only exceptions are bagless uprights, & some newer designs that avoid the bag coming into contact with the pre-motor filter, such as the Kenmore PowerFlow/Panasonic OptiFlow system. Ever wonder WHY Hoover made such a large bag for the Dial-A-Matic, yet they made the actual usable capacity of the bag so small? They knew what impact a filling bag would have on airflow & the vacuum's power to clean properly!

So, Bill, your statement above that a canister vacuum's airflow will be worse than a upright is FALSE! And if you REALLY think your statement is true, then I challenge you to go ahead & take 10 identical uprights, put them in people's homes, have them use them normally as they would to clean otherwise, & then check back in a couple of weeks & test their airflow with partially filled bags. I guarantee if you tested those cleaners with partially filled bags, you wouldn't be so impressed with their performance!

Even your own testing even proves you wrong! In your test results, you show that a 1980 Electrolux Olympia One has a PN CFM density of 3.55, beating out a Kirby Heritage II with 3.33 & a Kirby G6 with 3.54, & coming pretty close to matching a Kirby G5 with 3.69 & Kirby G4 with 3.61. Considering this is isn't even a modern canister vacuum, & has only 85" waterlift, I can only imagine how much better PN CFM a modern Miele, Sebo or Riccar/Simplicity canister would have.

And by the way, my opinion comes from REAL LIFE EXPERIENCE. My Mom, when she was alive, had her own cleaning business for over 37 years, & we both cleaned many commercial & residential properties together, & we used pretty much everything available for residential & commercial use. You name it, I have seen & used it!
I'm not just someone with a hobby who decided to "test" things at home, I have REAL experience using both uprights & canisters, & I know what the heck I am talking about! So, let's see your testing reflect results with REAL LIFE test results, & then we'll talk! Maybe next time you'll think before you challenge someone who REALLY knows what they're talking about.

Rob
 
Good points from Rob.

What about the Sebo X series. This has the pre motor filter to the side of the bag. That won't choke off the airflow as the bag fills will it? I always thought that was a good design.
 
Partial Reply #1,

Bill - I don't have the exact CFM & waterlift numbers for the Miele C3 canisters right on hand, I will have to do some digging around & see what I can find. But, then again, might I remind you that you yourself claim to know this....after all, it was YOU in your reply posts 25 & 26 that claims to have the actual numbers.

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That’s funny, I clearly typed “Theoretical” in the upper left hand side of the picture. Did you not see this?
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As for your testing & the Baird meter, again I do appreciate your tests & find them interesting. I was not aware you use a digital anemometer in addition to the Baird meter as part of your tests. However, I still do not believe the Baird meter, regardless of how it is used to test a vacuum or which vacuum is being tested, & do not believe it can be relied on as a accurate measuring tool to measure vacuum airflow, & as I said above, it is designed to produce false airflow number designed to make a Kirby look good during a in-home demonstration. It's bad enough, I personally think it should be banned!

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I have proven the above claim to be patently false in my previous reply. The Baird meter is an excellent tool for comparing hose airflow. Convert a Kirby and test the hose and you’ll see very high numbers. Then hook the Baird to another machine (say a canister) and repeat the test. Compare the results. The Baird meter is accurate and even nearly linear from about 0.5 to and 8.0.

It is only when comparing motor body airflow that the Baird can give difficult to interpret readings. For example, what happens when the disc goes well above a “10”? You can’t really tell or compare what it’s doing because the meter is “maxed out”. And the fact that with the hose adapter removed it can only fit a G series machine.
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Regarding the correlation between high waterlift & high airflow CFM numbers for vacuum motors, & how you need high waterlift to produce high airflow CFM, I was referring directly to clean air vacuum motors, the type used in canisters & clean air uprights. I was NOT referring to direct air motors, as there is hardly any produced anymore, & those that are don't publish those numbers.

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Well it’s a real bummer that there are a few models out there that I have tested that have very high water lift (think bag and bag less uprights) in the 75”-120” range that choose to “waste” their high airflow by forcing it through cyclones and around the power head to make the vacuum easier to push.
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Rob,

Stay tuned for part 2 where I put up some test results regarding HEPA bag airflow losses. I had to break up my responses into two parts due to text character limitations.

Bill
 
Partial Reply #2

Furthermore, the Hoover Tempo ...

So, Bill, your statement ...

*See Rob's Original Text Above *

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You’re in luck! I have done such tests! I will publish them here I believe for the first time.

Cloth HEPA Bag Losses (Same dirt type in all three bags of course)

Hoover Tempo Widepath (Crucial HEPA Bag)
0% full = 114 CFM (Body) and 106 CFM (Hose)
50% full = 97 CFM (Body) and 90 CFM (Hose)
100% full = 99 CFM (Body) and 91 CFM (Hose) <-No, those numbers are not a mistake, dirt can shift in the bag slightly affecting results by a percent or two.

Electrolux Olympia One (Perfect HEPA Bag, new vinyl hose)
0% full = 102 CFM (Body) and 85 CFM Hose
50% full = 85 CFM (Body) and I don’t have the hose measurement handy
100% full = 87 CFM (Body) and 79 CFM Hose

Kirby Heritage II Legend (Kirby HEPA Bag, new Amodel fan installed)
0% full = 161 CFM (Body) and 105 CFM (Hose)
75% full = 141 CFM (Body) and 105 CFM (Hose)
100% full = Didn’t perform formal measurements but quick check yielded no appreciable additional losses. It’s the reader’s choice if this would be believable or not.

Full Bag (Kirby 75%) Body RESULTS:
#1 with probably a few CFM less than this is the Kirby at <141 CFM
#2 with 99 CFM is the Hoover Tempo
#3 with 87 CFM is the Electrolux

Full Bag (Kirby 75%) Hose RESULTS:
#1 with probably a few CFM less than this is the Kirby at <105 CFM
#2 with 91 CFM is the Hoover Tempo
#3 with 79 CFM is the Electrolux
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Partial Reply #3

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So let’s see, your claim of 60%-70% airflow loss is totally bogus when using HEPA cloth bags. I do not use nor recommend paper bags of any type and even my U4007 Convertible has a Hoover Q HEPA bag installed now. Please see my post in the Vintage Forum as to my discovery that most Convertibles may not lose any airflow even when the bag fills partially due to belt and brush roll “pre-loading” of the motor. It’s quite fascinating!

Percent lost from empty to full (75% Kirby) HEPA bag:
Electrolux (Body) = 14.7%, Electrolux (Hose) = 7.1%
Tempo (Body) = 13.2%, Tempo (Hose) = 14.2%
Heritage II (Body) > 12.4%, Heritage II (Hose) = 0% <- Yes, I know that’s weird but apparently Kirby’s high speed hose mode make up the difference somehow.
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Even your own testing even proves you wrong! In your test results, you show that a 1980 Electrolux Olympia One has a PN CFM density of 3.55, beating out a Kirby Heritage II with 3.33 & a Kirby G6 with 3.54, & coming pretty close to matching a Kirby G5 with 3.69 & Kirby G4 with 3.61. Considering this is isn't even a modern canister vacuum, & has only 85" waterlift, I can only imagine how much better PN CFM a modern Miele, Sebo or Riccar/Simplicity canister would have.

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Dude, really? I guess you don’t understand the effects of CFM density. This very response is why sometimes I worry about posting results. CFM Density is only a ratio of nozzle airflow to nozzle size. It cannot by itself tell you how well a machines cleans.

EXAMPLE:

2004 Dirt Devil Swift Stick: 30 CFM (Filter installed) and a nozzle area of 3.25”. This gives a CFM density of a whopping 9.32 besting all the other machines I have. Does it deep clean? Of course not, but it’ll suck small items and fine dust from a 6 inch swath of bare floor pretty well…until the filter clogs, which is just a few seconds.
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Partial Reply #4

And by the way, my opinion comes from REAL LIFE EXPERIENCE. My Mom, when she was alive, had her own cleaning business for over 37 years, & we both cleaned many commercial & residential properties together, & we used pretty much everything available for residential & commercial use. You name it, I have seen & used it!
I'm not just someone with a hobby who decided to "test" things at home, I have REAL experience using both uprights & canisters, & I know what the heck I am talking about! So, let's see your testing reflect results with REAL LIFE test results, & then we'll talk! Maybe next time you'll think before you challenge someone who REALLY knows what they're talking about.

Rob

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I’ll let Vacuumlanders have the last word on who’s the most believable.

And to that end I have one last thing to prove about canister airflow loss. And the base numbers will not come from me, they will be from Ametek Lamb. Stay tuned!

Bill
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Using This Ametek Lamb Motor in a Miele C3...

Would probably be overkill, but I wanted to find something that had as close to 141 CFM as possible to prove a point. No matter what CFM the motor starts with, you must take into account the hose diameter that will feed your power nozzle.

Please examine my red highlighted box in their bulletin. At a 2" opening you have a whopping 140 CFM. At a fully blocked or sealed opening, you have an equally whopping 140" of lift.

Now I call your attention to what happens when the opening is reduced to 1.125". The airflow drops like a stone from 140 CFM to 106 CFM (I'm rounding). Now add additional losses for things like:

1) base hose connection
2) hose looping/curling
3) hose to base handle connection
4) wand length #1
5) wand length #2
6) wand to u-joint
7) typical 45 degree angle of u-joint

There simply will be at least 15-20 CFM additional losses. So I would expect a Miele C3 with a fresh HEPA bag to have around 90-ish CFM at the power nozzle. Compare to a Sentria II that has 137 CFM or a Heritage II Legend through a G6 that has around 120 CFM.

Bill

wyaple++4-5-2017-18-17-50.jpg
 
2 questions. I get that leaks reduce airflow at the nozzle/floorhead... But if the motor is sucking in when on I don't see how any dust escapes through leaks when traveling to the motor because leaks will also be sucking in air, inhibiting dust escape... It seems a sealed system helps maintain airflow but not sure how critical it is to prevent escaping dust when motor is on?

The next question about airflow needed to cause floorhead seal to floor... with a C3 with AirTeQ suction-only head at full power it is basically stuck to any carpet and is almost impossible to move without hopping it across the carpet forwards and significant pull backwards which lifts the carpet off the floor. I'm not sure I understand any relevancy related to 'seal to floor' comments about floorheads and airflow other than it is related to the underside design of a floorhead.
 
Sebo introduced a tapered hose which is supposed to increase airflow. It's wider at the body end.

Can someone please test a Miele C3 with a Baird meter so we can see the CFM at the end of the hose.

My guess is it will around about 100 CFM +/- 10 CFM
 
Marcus - About the Sebo X series uprights & maintaining airflow & suction power. Yes, you are right. The pre-motor filter being on the side should indeed help the cleaner maintain power longer. Now, the only problem I can see with them is the fact that they used paper bags for so many years, which would clog fairly quickly. And although they do have HEPA Cloth bags now for the uprights, they are only a 3 ply bag. One thing about the new Sebo Mechanical uprights that were recently introduced, though, is they FINALLY put a pleated HEPA filter on the exhaust! I guess they figured a change was required when Miele went after them, claiming in their advertising for the Miele S7/Dynamic U1 uprights that they had the Sebo uprights were tested & found to be horrible for dust emissions. Now, if only they had a bit more suction thru the hose & a way to shut off the brushroll for bare floors, I would be tempted to buy one.

The other bagged uprights that would be superior at maintaining airflow would be the Kenmore PowerFlow/Panasonic OptiFlow uprights, Riccar Radiance & Simplicity Synergy Tandem Air uprights, Hoover Dial-A-Matic uprights, & newer body style Riccar Vibrance/Simplicity Symmetry uprights. Tacony has developed a system of plastic bars in the bag chamber that help keep the bag off of the pre-motor filter & motor vent. The copies of the Sebo X Series, such as the Hoover Insight/Hoover Profile, that have the same design, would also be superior at maintaining airflow as well.

Might I ask where you found the CFM ratings for the Miele C3 canisters, Marcus? It seems almost impossible to find that kind of information for Miele vacuums. If you could post a link please, I would appreciate it.

Rob
 
Do you mean the Sebo Evolution? And yes the Sebo X series will show up as horrible dust emissions but this is carbon dust from the motor. The S class filter is before the motor, which has the added benefit of offering excellent protection of the motor. They have a Hepa filter available in the US for the X series which will filter a little better than the electrostatic filter but not much. The electrostatic filter has the advantage of slightly more open pores so allow more airflow and last longer.

This was on Amazon. Someone said the CFM was 148. A few people pointed out that was at the motor and it was 94 at the end of the hose.

Not sure where they got this info or how accurate it is.
 
Mark,

Please, please, please post the link and/or text in which you found 94 CFM and the hose end! If this is true, and I'm most definitely saying that it may not be, that would mean super colossal airflow losses in a nearly $1000 canister. As a reference, my 1980 Lux with a new vinyl hose does 95 CFM at the end of the hose.

And I found the 141 CFM motor spec from various dealers that sell this unit (not Amazon though).

Bill
 
There was a C3 for sale on Amazon. Someone asked a question "What is the CFM?"
Someone replied 145 CFM.
Then 2 people replied that is at the motor. It's 94 at the end of the hose.

Don't know where they got the info from.
 
If Those Amazon Numbers Are True...

than that would be absolutely shocking! Think about it: a well respected, high priced canister that has no better airflow at the hose than this 1980 Electrolux (new hose). So what people are buying when purchasing a Miele is exhaust filtration at an outrageous price.

wyaple++4-6-2017-12-04-7.jpg
 
Why won't Miele list the CFM at the end of the hose?
Mieles and Sebos are way overpriced in the US.
I've seen a Miele C3 with the 228 PN for £350 here and I've just purchased a Sebo E4 Premium with ET1 PN for £220. About $270. You are being well and truly ripped off!
 
They Won't Because That Would Make Life Too Easy

For the buying public. Imagine being able to comparison shop merely by looking at the hose or nozzle CFM.

You might see a $70 Hoover Tempo with 106 at the hose and 80 at the nozzle and a $700-$1200 Miele, Riccar, Sebo, etc. with the same specs and only the Hoover would sell! Jobs would be lost, heads would explode, the world would come to end as we know it. And suddenly manufacturers would be forced to justify ridiculous over priced machines.

Bill

wyaple++4-6-2017-12-45-22.jpg
 
Good point or be forced into improving the airflow ☺
Those figures could be wrong though it does seem like quite a big loss.

Is there no one on here with a Baird meter who owns a Miele or knows someone with a Miele?
 
Marcus,


 


A $50 Baird meter measures airflow on a 0 - 10 scale. It does not measure CFM.


 


To measure CFM you need a Digital Anemomter which is a very expensive instrument.


 


There are many vacuum enthusiasts that own a Baird meter, but only a very few that own a Digital Anemomter and fortunately Bill owns one but unfortunately he does not own a Miele C3.


 


  
 
I thought Bill corresponded the Baird meter with CFM so a score of 10 would have a certain amount of airflow?

Anyway even if it doesn't I'd still like to see what the Miele scores.
 
Stan,

Of course the Baird meter measures airflow, it just assigns it to a simple set of numbers. You need the "key" to unlock what an "8" means. Here's the key.

Bill

wyaple++4-6-2017-14-42-33.jpg
 

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