Air-Way question

[vacmadman]

I had the opportunity to meet with Kelton, and work on his Air-Way together. We were able to free up his dust indicator window that had froze up due to rust, but we had a little problem. His Air-Way, did not have the screw, that you loosen to remove the window, but yet the window itself is the same as the 3 in my collection that came with the screw.

I have seen a number of Air-Way's and rebuilt 5, from 1929 through 1933, I have 3 operation manuals, and all show the screw on the right hand side of the Air-way below the window. Could it be they overlooked this at the factory, or did some Air-Way's come without it, and if so what would prevent it from possibly falling out when not in use?[this post was last edited: 1/20/2021-14:11]

 

[rivstg1]

inquiring minds wanna know!!!!!

 

[dysonman1]

I have the earliest of Air-Way uprights in my collection. The screw to hold the indicator was not on there until the later 20's. The indicator fit in pretty tight on the real old ones, although it turned - it didn't turn nearly as easily as the later ones with the screw. I don't think the indicator fell off, I think the screw was to prevent little fingers from lifting off the indicator and putting their little hands in the fan. Like the Kirby safety switch.

 

[vacmadman]

Tom

Thanks so much for that information nice to know. Unfortunately after getting it removed and cleaning out the rust the window sits in a little lose, and can fall out, but when the Air-Way is running it holds in place nicely. It would make sense that after some time of being used the window would loosen, is there anyway to help correct this? Also Kelton's Air-Way came with the aluminum back wheel assembly, I thought this change came later in production? Thanks again Tom.

Jim

 

[vacmadman]

Side note

Keltons, Air-Way must have gone through some updates. His Air-Way also had the levelers on the nozzle which I believe didn't come along until 1929 pictured is the early Air-Way, that is much different then Kelton's set up.

Jim

 

[quebecois]

Nice to see some guys with knowledge of these models. I started tearing mine apart to clean it inside, but I got stuck in the process because I can get access to the motor.

Do you agree I send some pictures and questions privately, or do you prefer I post them here?

 

[human]

It wouldn't be original but...

...one could always seal the window into place with a bead of RTV silicone, which could easily be removed, should the need arise.

 

[vacmadman]

access to the motor.

Chris,

Go ahead and post your questions and pictures here. Information shared here might help others in the future.

Jim

 

[quebecois]

Can you please explain how I could gain access to the motor?

 

[oreck_xl]

So I have an Air-Way question

Maybe somebody knows. I have both models with the hinged back wheels (as shown) and the stationary aluminum rear wheel carriage. Which came first? Was there any particular advantage of hinged wheels? Personally I appreciate the uprights so much more than the canisters that came later on....

 

[dysonman1]

Francios: That is the extremely rare Air-Way "Nifty Fifty" model 50. It was the entry level model at the same time (1935) that the Super Chief twin motor and the DirtMasteR upright were out. There should be sunken nuts on those posts that need to come off. Then the bearing plate comes off like it does on an old Kirby.

Hershel: The Air-Way with the black painted rear wheels was first. Primitive swivel on the nozzle connection. Black painted nozzle tube.

Then, they went to the chrome plated nozzle tube about 1923. By 1924 they were selling the machine door to door (the first three years were in retail stores) and the swivel and rear wheels bracket were all changed. The height adjustment levers didn't come out until 1929 with the model F.

 

[quebecois]

Is this the reason why there are four holes on top of the motor case? SHould the sunken nuts come off through these top holes ?

 

[vacmadman]

François,

No the sunken nuts are at the top of the motor that holds the front plate or "bearing" plate in place. As in your first post picture #3 There should be little nuts at the top of the threaded roods that come through the bearing plate. I hope these pictures help.

Jim

 

[vacmadman]

Better pictures

Here is a better set of pictures. The picture you shared is the bottom of the motor case.

 

[madman]

It looks like he took the nuts off already. Likely the plate is just stuck. See if you can push it out, by poking a screwdriver in one of the air holes on the side of the motor. Be careful not to bend the cooling fan, or poke the field coils or any wiring. Also, try to push it off evenly from both sides. Cocking it forcefully to one side might damage the bearing.

 

[quebecois]

Thanks everyone ! Yes, nuts are already off. I'll try cleaning a bit with compressed air through every hole before I do anything else, in order to see what I shouldn't poke at.

 

[vacmadman]

viibration

Simply tap the rim at the top of the motor with a wooden mallet or lightly tap with a hammer. This should help loosen the top plate with a little vibration to do the job. You can also use a small screwdriver to tap on the armature shaft where it inserts at the bottom of the motor center hole.

 

[quebecois]

I finally pried it out with a flat scewdriver through the base holes.

It's really greasy in there. I consider cleaning it with a tooth brush and varsol first , then contact cleaner, or simply acetone right away. Other suggestions?

I remember the motor did lots of arcing the only time I had it to run, all that grease shouldn't help, I guess.

 

[quebecois]

I reached that point, I'm reluctant to pull at something I could break...what should I do to go safely deeper ? I'd like to clean the fields.