using a transformer to use a 240 volt central vacuum on a 120 volt outlet

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n0oxy

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For anyone on here who has some electrical knowledge, would these converters allow me to use a 240 volt central vacuum unit from a 120 volt outlet? I live in an apartment so really can't install a 240 volt outlet, so these transformers look interesting. I'm not sure how large of a model I would need, but 5000 watts seems reasonable. The other issue would be the plug, do 240 volt central vacuum units use a European plug or something else? If this would work, it would be awesome. Here are the two transformers I am looking at.
https://www.110220volts.com/ac-5000.html
https://www.110220volts.com/tc-5000.html
 
My question would be is if the central vacuum is turned off does the transformer still draw electricity?
You should be able to find whatever plug you need it Home Depot to adapt it.
 
Short answer is no. The reason some central vacuums use 240 volts is that household 120 volt outlets can not deliver enough wattage. The maximum wattage a 120 volt 15 amp outlet is 1800. If you are lucky drawing more than this will trip the breaker if not it could start a fire.
 
I use a similar transformer to convert 120V to 240V to run a 240V only CMH lamp fixture -1000W .The light is 5A at 240V-so the transformer will draw 10A at 120V-this is safe and within the range of a 15A 120V outlet.The transformer can handle up to 2200W-so it could work from a 20A 120V outlet.What current at 240V does the vacuum unit draw?The 5000W transformers shown in the links would draw too much power from 15,or 20A 120V outlets.You would need to connect it to the 30A 120V outlet that homes usually don't have-twist lock plug.NEMA 30A@120V.
 
Does your apartment have a 240v stove/range outlet? Or an electric dryer outlet? Because those would be my go-to. Failing that, one of those transformers is an option.

However, as already said, you're only gonna get 1800W out of a typical 15A circuit, and that's assuming NOTHING else on that circuit is drawing juice. If you overload it and trip the breaker, you trip the breaker. That's what they're there for. There's no more fire hazard than there is normally (ie, old building with old wiring), so don't worry about that.

Possible problem #2, you're looking at American to European step-up transformers. The rest of the world (foolishly) chose to use 50Hz instead of 60. I can't find any info on those converters as to frequency. I'm *assuming* it's just a giant transformer inside, which would output the same Hz as is input. Which would be good for your purposes of using 240v American appliances. But if by some chance it was a digital converter, it might output 50Hz, which would not work with most central vacs, as they usually have induction motors (which depend upon the correct frequency).

Now the real question is what is the amp or watt rating of the 240v appliance you're thinking of using? Remember that Watts = Volts * Amps, so 7.5A * 240v = 1800w = 15A * 120v. Basically watt rating is independent of voltage.

Oh also. If you're clever, and I feel like I saw this mentioned in another thread not long ago, you can find two outlets on separate phases in your apartment, and with a little ingenuity (and a trip to the hardware store) you can wire up a 240v outlet. Basically, half the circuits in your place are on one phase, and the other half are on the other. Two phases together make a whole 240v circuit. However, I wouldn't hardwire anything like that, but as a temporary thing, like an 'extension cord' that you unplugged when you finished using it, would be fine. Then, in theory, using two 15A circuits, you could create a 15A @ 240v circuit. Again, with no other loads. Actually, this would probably be easier, cheaper, and even safer than using a converter. Because, again, a converter puts the whole load on one breaker, and would then be limited to half the current draw as the other way.

Speaking of wiring, at least the first converter uses a universal outlet for the output, which would support using a normal US 120v plug. I'm fairly certain most central vac units would not even have a plug, being hardwired. But that's easily wired to a cord and plug. When you start getting into stuff like using a 120v plug for a 240v appliance, I would really make sure you label everything, so nobody does anything stupid. Not that plugging a 240v motor into 120v would do much.

You know what you need to do? You need to find the breaker box for your apartment and look inside it. Maybe snap a pic for us. Sometimes the handwritten labels would tell you enough. ie, one of them says 'dryer' or 'stove.' But yeah, definitely also let us know the power ratings of the stuff you wanna use too.
 
Voltage in apt houses-in most apartment buildings in the US they are fed with 208/120V 3 phase.Between phases you get 208V phase to neutral you get 120.Most new central vacuum cleaner units use universal motors-the frequency for those won't matter.You can look for the dist transformer that feeds your building-on a groundmounted unit-you can read the secondary voltages.In one apt house I lived in-the place was fed with 480/277V another transformer in the building stepped the 480V to 208/120V to feed the apartments.The 480V ran the building equipment HVAC and chillers,building lighting.
 
Actually...

 A transformer with no load attached draws very little current. I found this statement on Wikipedia:


 


<span class="ILfuVd NA6bn"><span class="e24Kjd">"Since the secondary of the transformer is open, the primary draws only no-load current, which will have some copper loss. ... Since no current passes through the secondary windings, no magnetic field is created, which means zero current is induced on the primary side."</span></span>


 


<span class="ILfuVd NA6bn"><span class="e24Kjd">Therefore since the current rating of the central vacuum you want to connect to the transformer is 15.5 amps @240volts and since the total amperage drawn on a 120 volt circuit would be approx. double what is stated on the vacuum's information plate. In this case: The central vac is rated 15.5 amps@240 volts, then the total amps drawn from your 120 volt outlet would be slightly more than 31 amps@120 volts which will prohibit usage of a step-up transformer in this case.
</span></span>


 


<span class="ILfuVd NA6bn"><span class="e24Kjd">The only way to go in this case would be to connect it in parallel to your electric stove's 240 volt outlet.</span></span>


 


 


 

[this post was last edited: 5/19/2019-11:05]
 
tolivac - 480/277v is for industrial use and big buildings, no apartment building is going to get that (unless it's a huge building, and even then, there would be a secondary transformer or something to provide normal 120/240 to each apartment). Also residential consumers almost never get 3 phase power. And even if they did, the circuits for the normal house stuff would still be on 2 phase. In other words, no residence is going to have access to 277v.

n0oxy - Nevermind the plug, you can always change it. But yeah, 15.5A at 240v is 31A at 120v, so it's not happening with the transformer thingy. However, using the two-outlet system I described, you *might* get away with it. Because the amp rating is a maximum rating, and typically describes the current draw at startup. So you might yet get away with using two totally unloaded circuits, and say, make sure the hose is open to suck air in during startup. Still, that's a maybe.

Where's the pic of your breaker box?
 
Probably not a good idea

Check to see how much amperage you can draw on the circuit first; most are 20-30 amps. 30amps*120volts is only 3,600 watts, so 5000 will not work even if nothing else is connected to the circuit.

I'm installing a NEMA-30 in my garage to charge an electric car soon. We've been pulling >12amps from a standard 120 outlet and the outlet is starting to look burnt. The cord feels like it could melt soon. So from personal experience, limit any load to 12amps max per outlet. Like others mentioned, it's not worth risking a fire over.
 
The building I lived in DID have 480V power-simple to read the nameplate on the transformer feeding the building and looking in the basement The basement also had the 480V-208/120V stepdown transformer.-indeed was fed with 480V power-I was surprised to see that.You can learn a LOT by reading nameplates on distribution transformers feeding buildings.The other apt house I lived in had TWO 208/120V 1400A transformers feeding the building-one on each side.Again looded in the basements and walking around the building.Double feeds are RARE!!!!The transformers were 13.8Kv to 208/120V in the dual transformer building and 13.8Kv to 480V in the second one-the dual fed places were larger buildings.The aprtments each had their own gas furnaces and AC which ran from 208V.The place with the 480V feed had chillers that ran from 480V.The place had two boilers-one for heat-other for hot water.They were dual fuel and could burn natural gas or fuel oil.The boilers were identical and the engineer swapped them on each season change.
 
Be careful about no load on transformers-ALL transformers do have some losses-resistence-impedence of the primary windings and core loss.Its not unusual to have 2-3Kw loss in a transformer rated for 1Mva-one of the transformers in one of our transmitters.Its in an unloaded condition when the HV supply is off.For a small transformer-like the convertor transformer as in this case-the loss would only be like a watt or two.Not enough to worry over.The transformer I have has a switch-breaker that opens the 120V fed to the transformer-so no loss at all when off.
 
n0oxy - Stop worrying about the plug. Plugs can be changed to whatever you want and won't cost you more than $5 and a trip to home depot. It's the least of your concerns.

Now, that thing that they want $200+ for is exactly what I described in my previous post. You could make that yourself for $50 or less. It's just two extension cords wired into a box with an outlet on it, nothing else is needed. Maybe scroll up and actually read my comments about it? >_>
 
making device and out of phase

I have a visual impairment so wiring something like that is not really an option for me. I'm definitely technically and mechanically inclined, I work in the computer field for a living, but wiring up something like that would definitely require more vision than I have since I can't even read print.
I wonder if all of my outlets are on the same phase or if they are different. I live in apartment building with four apartment units, so it's possible that all of my outlets could be on the same phase and the apartment next door might have the other phase, not sure though.
Mike
 
If you pay your own electric bill and have your own meter and breaker box, there's a 99% chance you have 2 phases in your apt. However if you're on old-fashioned fuses, there is a possibility you've only got one phase, mostly depending on the age of the fuse box, but it would have to be ancient.

Also, I don't know the severity of your impairment, but you could always ask someone to assist you with - at minimum - replacing the plug on the central vac. :/
 
electric bill

Yes, each apartment in my building pays their own electric bill and it's based on their own useage, so that would indicate that each tenant has their own meter. I really should go down to our basement and see what kind of box is down there, I've never done that. It appears that this central vacuum needs a 20 amp plug, the outlets in my apartment are only 15 amp, they are not nema 5 20 plugs, so using this method would probably trip some breakers unless the circuits are 20 amp in spite of the outlet type. I can't say for sure but I believe there is a hook up for an electric drier for each tenant, I've never used mine but I should look for that in the basement. Is there a difference between a nema 6 240 outlet, an electric drier outlet and an electric stove outlet or are the plugs similar?
Mike
 

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