Look at the picture, the center hole on the plastic fan is just a little bit bigger, that allows it to screw on the shaft farther, that allows the thread's to come through the center hole, then allowing the shaft to screw on
Royal 501
- Thread starter karl
- Start date
Help Support VacuumLand:
Karl
Karl,
The fan in my 1982 501 is definitely a metal fan.
~Ben
Karl,
The fan in my 1982 501 is definitely a metal fan.
~Ben
Karl
Karl,
I still believe the plastic fan that came with your machine when you got it was probably a hack job by the person that last owned it.
~Ben
Karl,
I still believe the plastic fan that came with your machine when you got it was probably a hack job by the person that last owned it.
~Ben
Karl
Karl,
I went back and checked all the replies to this subject (by vacman1961 and human) and it appears you are correct that the plastic fan was used (but on the very last machines).
But... your 501 also does not have the guard by the motor switch, so that is why I still think yours has had the metal fan before. If you could please give me the serial number from yours (provided it is still legible), that would help me further.
~Ben
Karl,
I went back and checked all the replies to this subject (by vacman1961 and human) and it appears you are correct that the plastic fan was used (but on the very last machines).
But... your 501 also does not have the guard by the motor switch, so that is why I still think yours has had the metal fan before. If you could please give me the serial number from yours (provided it is still legible), that would help me further.
~Ben
Karl
Karl,
Your 501 was built in September 1987.
I would have to guess at this point that the plastic fan also uses a different motor shaft than the one that was for the metal fan.
Therefore, if you need the proper motor shaft to go with the metal fan, it would be part no. 1-501261-000.
~Ben
Karl,
Your 501 was built in September 1987.
I would have to guess at this point that the plastic fan also uses a different motor shaft than the one that was for the metal fan.
Therefore, if you need the proper motor shaft to go with the metal fan, it would be part no. 1-501261-000.
~Ben
Issue
So the metal fan doesn't go down far enough on the shaft to tighten? I have never drilled a fan. It may be okay if it's slightly drilled out. I may get no he should never do that but do maybe a 16th of an inch out. Put old fan on to make sure grooves are still usable. You can per say drill out center but risk losing threading. I'd say to hell with it either put plastic fan back on or make metal one work. It's not recommended you may not get metal one to work but if you want metal one to work shave small very small pieces of checking threading with old plastic one. There is even worse advise put metal one on heat it up torque it on but you would have to make sure armature shaft doesn't twist or it could be bad. So if you want metal fan slightly cut out middle section. You should keep threads and it would work. I know everyone will say don't but slow and steady it should work. I know people don't agree don't roast me. He has a metal fan either it works or it doesn't. If it doesn't you seen I have armature and fan. If it doesn't work if you cover shipping I'll send you metal one with bearing plate and fan. I have about 8 royal hand vacs. Motor and fan are parts I only needed switch for 1930s or older hand vac. I have 3 1940s royal electro hygiene ones I had 4 80s-90s ones. I had one for sale in supermarket plack with red and black bag. I gave it to my father because hand vacuums are handy. I get most at thrift store ranging from $3-$8. I have a Kirby vacuette a Douglas busy bee but royals seem to out do Kirby ones. Idk so try that don't roast me it's iffy if it works but you already have the fan it doesn't fit so worst case scenario metal one won't work. Try what I said it should work as long as drilling out is slow not slamming it in chunking metal pieces flying everywhere.
Les
So the metal fan doesn't go down far enough on the shaft to tighten? I have never drilled a fan. It may be okay if it's slightly drilled out. I may get no he should never do that but do maybe a 16th of an inch out. Put old fan on to make sure grooves are still usable. You can per say drill out center but risk losing threading. I'd say to hell with it either put plastic fan back on or make metal one work. It's not recommended you may not get metal one to work but if you want metal one to work shave small very small pieces of checking threading with old plastic one. There is even worse advise put metal one on heat it up torque it on but you would have to make sure armature shaft doesn't twist or it could be bad. So if you want metal fan slightly cut out middle section. You should keep threads and it would work. I know everyone will say don't but slow and steady it should work. I know people don't agree don't roast me. He has a metal fan either it works or it doesn't. If it doesn't you seen I have armature and fan. If it doesn't work if you cover shipping I'll send you metal one with bearing plate and fan. I have about 8 royal hand vacs. Motor and fan are parts I only needed switch for 1930s or older hand vac. I have 3 1940s royal electro hygiene ones I had 4 80s-90s ones. I had one for sale in supermarket plack with red and black bag. I gave it to my father because hand vacuums are handy. I get most at thrift store ranging from $3-$8. I have a Kirby vacuette a Douglas busy bee but royals seem to out do Kirby ones. Idk so try that don't roast me it's iffy if it works but you already have the fan it doesn't fit so worst case scenario metal one won't work. Try what I said it should work as long as drilling out is slow not slamming it in chunking metal pieces flying everywhere.
Les
Hey
The fan doesn't have to be flush with bearing plate. You can grind it down that wouldn't affect it at all.
Grind it just measure difference and make a mark to know where to stop. This wouldn't affect anything at all.
Les
The fan doesn't have to be flush with bearing plate. You can grind it down that wouldn't affect it at all.
Grind it just measure difference and make a mark to know where to stop. This wouldn't affect anything at all.
Les
madman
Well-known member
Are you sure you're not having a depth problem, rather than a diameter problem? Before you jump the gun, why not get a cheap digital caliper from Harbor Freight (for like $15, good thing to have around), and measure the depth of the shaft hole in each blade, and then the diameters as well. And if the hole has a 'step' in it, you can measure the depth to that as well.
Also, is the fan itself threaded? Or is that only the belt shaft that acts as the nut that holds on the fan?
Also, is the fan itself threaded? Or is that only the belt shaft that acts as the nut that holds on the fan?
Karl
Karl,
That is so awesome you were able to get the metal fan fitted!
~Ben[this post was last edited: 2/8/2019-14:49]
Karl,
That is so awesome you were able to get the metal fan fitted!
~Ben[this post was last edited: 2/8/2019-14:49]
hmc1981
Well-known member
Oiling...
Mine does have an oiling port... Instructions detail how to oil. Additionally (see pics for instructions) there is another access point (with bag removed) at the top and rear of the motor casting.
Mine does have an oiling port... Instructions detail how to oil. Additionally (see pics for instructions) there is another access point (with bag removed) at the top and rear of the motor casting.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
MD AirMaster XL A900r2Q 240V, my favorite even though I don't have one yet.
- Latest: robocleanlover
-
-
