PROBLEM WITH HOOVER CONVERTIBLE MOTOR

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hoover719

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
102
I have a Hoover Convertible model U4367. While the motor works very well, there is no electricity going through the wires to the light bulb. As suggested by a vacuum cleaner store, I took the motor apart to check the two wires that go from the coil to the light bulb and there appeared to be no damage or significant wear. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this problem, and how to fix it?
 
I'm no expert on vacuum cleaners and don't know how the Convertible's light bulb works, but here's some general electronics ideas: Have you tried testing the wires electrically rather than just a physical inspection? I.E. check for continuity from each of the 2 terminals of the light bulb socket to whatever the wires connect to, you should see zero ohms end-to-end on each wire. Also, you may want to just connect your ohmmeter between the 2 terminals on the light socket to make sure something isn't shorted.

The reason I'm suggesting checking the wires with an ohmmeter is that it's possible for the copper inside the wire to break without there being any obvious physical damage to the insulation.
 
the bulb may be burned out OR the contacts have arced inside, which would cause it to flicker or not come on at all. if the bottom of the contacts inside the socket and the bulb appear black at all, the bulb needs to find its way to a trash can. and the socket contacts need to be polished with a small flat topped file or small flathead screwdriver so the new bulb has electrical contact again.

Will Hemb
 
I have tested the bulb socket with a light bulb tester that was given to me by a vacuum cleaner store and there is no power going to it. I originally thought that there was a problem when I put a new light bulb in it and the light still did not work. Is there a particular device that I should use to test it?
 
If the wires go from the coil to the light bulb, then this is a flat-base bulb, no? That would mean it's 12 volts, which wouldn't register on a basic line-voltage current tester (the kind that just lights up). You'd need a multimeter.

Sometimes those bulbs can be finicky too, and you have to align the little wires on the base to make contact.
 

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