"new" hoover D-A-M
- Thread starter kirby16
- Start date
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Well, my DAM is ruined. :*( I dont know if you looked at the ictures closeley enough or not, but it had a big "$14.99" written across it. My dad went to get it off with some "goop off", and it got the sharpie off it. But it also erased the "H" in the hoover logo and the "check" on the check bg indicator is gone, and theres white all over the front. Its ruined!!!!! *bursts into tears*
aeoliandave
Well-known member
Sounds like irreversible damage if the surface is 'melted'. Sorry to hear this.
Is the white merely smeared white lithograph ink (try a Mr Clean magic Eraser on it) or is the surface of the plastic visibly melted and marred?
This is how we all learned our lessons. Different plastics & recognition of their properties is one of them.
Citrus based gum removers like Goof-Off and Goo-Gone (environmentally and PC friendly as they may be) are highly corrosive to many shiny hardshell plastics used for contemporary vacuum cleaners and are just about the worst fluid on styrene-based plastics because they eat away and dissolve the plastic surface. Depending on the plastic's compositional blend it is not always evident at first swipe. Vinyl-based plastics such as polypropylene are virtually impervious to citrus cleaners but ABS is usually not. Both types of plastic are used on the DAMS such as the back but the bag cover is styrene-based, iirc.
Grease pencil china marker usually comes off cleanly with soap & water.
To remove 'permanent' Magic Marker or Sharpie ALWAYS first try a vigorous scrub with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. This removes most of the surface ink and depending on how long the marker has been on the plastic, sometimes the marker has reacted and left a faint stain.
If the mark still faintly shows follow up with a fresh Magic Eraser.
Only then do you get out the adhesive remover.
The ONLY gum adhesive remover I will use on a vacuum is Naphtha aka Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol. It will NOT attack the plastic but may soften the printing so careful application is essential around silk screened logos & such.
All the alleged gum adhesive cleaners on the market have warning labels on the back; it is always best to err on the side of caution and always always always do a test patch on a hidden inside surface when in doubt - which should be EVERY time.
Ruined and defaced the front of my Kenmore Portable AC unit cabinet when a friend decided to help out removing the peel & stick marketing label panel on the front with Goo-Gone; the surface now looks like a burn scar.
Just as Varsol and Turpentine have different properties for cleaning oil paint brushes, so too are Naphtha and Citrus Cleaners entirely different solvents.
Similarly, many people believe the advertising that WD-40 is an all purpose lubricant, rust-inhibitor and price label sticker cleaner. In fact it has exactly the opposite effect if left in place for any length of time.
WWD-40 is permanently banned from all my work stations.
I'm sure others here can post their fool-proof favorites that never fail.
Dave
Is the white merely smeared white lithograph ink (try a Mr Clean magic Eraser on it) or is the surface of the plastic visibly melted and marred?
This is how we all learned our lessons. Different plastics & recognition of their properties is one of them.
Citrus based gum removers like Goof-Off and Goo-Gone (environmentally and PC friendly as they may be) are highly corrosive to many shiny hardshell plastics used for contemporary vacuum cleaners and are just about the worst fluid on styrene-based plastics because they eat away and dissolve the plastic surface. Depending on the plastic's compositional blend it is not always evident at first swipe. Vinyl-based plastics such as polypropylene are virtually impervious to citrus cleaners but ABS is usually not. Both types of plastic are used on the DAMS such as the back but the bag cover is styrene-based, iirc.
Grease pencil china marker usually comes off cleanly with soap & water.
To remove 'permanent' Magic Marker or Sharpie ALWAYS first try a vigorous scrub with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. This removes most of the surface ink and depending on how long the marker has been on the plastic, sometimes the marker has reacted and left a faint stain.
If the mark still faintly shows follow up with a fresh Magic Eraser.
Only then do you get out the adhesive remover.
The ONLY gum adhesive remover I will use on a vacuum is Naphtha aka Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol. It will NOT attack the plastic but may soften the printing so careful application is essential around silk screened logos & such.
All the alleged gum adhesive cleaners on the market have warning labels on the back; it is always best to err on the side of caution and always always always do a test patch on a hidden inside surface when in doubt - which should be EVERY time.
Ruined and defaced the front of my Kenmore Portable AC unit cabinet when a friend decided to help out removing the peel & stick marketing label panel on the front with Goo-Gone; the surface now looks like a burn scar.
Just as Varsol and Turpentine have different properties for cleaning oil paint brushes, so too are Naphtha and Citrus Cleaners entirely different solvents.
Similarly, many people believe the advertising that WD-40 is an all purpose lubricant, rust-inhibitor and price label sticker cleaner. In fact it has exactly the opposite effect if left in place for any length of time.
WWD-40 is permanently banned from all my work stations.
I'm sure others here can post their fool-proof favorites that never fail.
Dave
aeoliandave
Well-known member
"got the sharpie off it. But it also erased the "H" in the hoover logo and the "check" on the check bag indicator is gone"
Whoops, I jumped the gun. Sounds like the plastic didn't melt after all; I was thinking of more recent vintage plastics.
By now you've probably carefully rubbed away all traces of the white ink smear - Q-tips and wood toothpicks are useful when cleaning a textured surface. Next step is to hand-letter the H in a matte white model paint like Testors. Follow with a good all-over paste wax on the bag cover and she's shiny & good as new.
Want to post a before and after picture of the smear for us?
Good luck.
Whoops, I jumped the gun. Sounds like the plastic didn't melt after all; I was thinking of more recent vintage plastics.
By now you've probably carefully rubbed away all traces of the white ink smear - Q-tips and wood toothpicks are useful when cleaning a textured surface. Next step is to hand-letter the H in a matte white model paint like Testors. Follow with a good all-over paste wax on the bag cover and she's shiny & good as new.
Want to post a before and after picture of the smear for us?
Good luck.
kirby16
I thought you might like to see this:
I thought you might like to see this:
kirby16
Hoover
Hoover
suckolux
Well-known member
Nice job! Great pics! Kind gesture.
vacman117
Well-known member
I have that same model and I love it! The only issue with mine is that there is some sun damage on the sides =/
Dial A Matics are great vacuums though in my opinion!
Dial A Matics are great vacuums though in my opinion!
go to a craft store and get some small bottles of paint and small brushes, ask the store person if it will hold up on plastic, you can touch it up and as dave said wax over it. always test stuff in an out of the way area before you use it
kittingerhoover
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2010
- Messages
- 176
STRANGELY RARE!!
Take a look at this, it was as I suspected on the first picture, the E and R as well as the flower graphic is BACKWARDS!! You have a rare treat as this machine missed quality control.
I would keep it forever, and in fact I would not do ANYTHING else to the front of that thing, to me that error makes it incredibly valuable.
On another note I may have a front for that thing let me check
Dennis
Take a look at this, it was as I suspected on the first picture, the E and R as well as the flower graphic is BACKWARDS!! You have a rare treat as this machine missed quality control.
I would keep it forever, and in fact I would not do ANYTHING else to the front of that thing, to me that error makes it incredibly valuable.
On another note I may have a front for that thing let me check
Dennis
aeoliandave
Well-known member
Good one, Dennis. LOL
Um, all of Kirby16's pictures are reversed mirror images as shown by the lettering on that jacket on the stand, if the backside shot with the hose coming out the 'wrong' side wasn't clue enough.
What the heck kinda bassackwards cellphone camera are ya using there?
Retail Nail Polish Remover is a blend of pure Acetone and light oil formulated to not damage human tissue while stripping the enamel from the nails. It should not be anywhere near a precious vacuum as it can spot and blister the paint on the metal base - like Industrial Polystrippa - Yikes! Acetone evaporates quickly and is another solvent that will melt styrene plastics. Obviously the DAM's vinyl-ized shell is not being affected. It is unlikely that polish remover would have any effect other than making a mess much messy-er.
Since the "goop off" your Dad used did the dissolving of the lettering in the first place that's the same stuff you use to clean up the smearing. But do it right...lay the machine face up on a table on a towel to avoid running drips. Sit in a chair under a bright light. After wiping away the surface smear, use toothpicks and Q-tips dipped in "goop off" to detail clean in and around the textured bumps.
Dave
Um, all of Kirby16's pictures are reversed mirror images as shown by the lettering on that jacket on the stand, if the backside shot with the hose coming out the 'wrong' side wasn't clue enough.
What the heck kinda bassackwards cellphone camera are ya using there?
Retail Nail Polish Remover is a blend of pure Acetone and light oil formulated to not damage human tissue while stripping the enamel from the nails. It should not be anywhere near a precious vacuum as it can spot and blister the paint on the metal base - like Industrial Polystrippa - Yikes! Acetone evaporates quickly and is another solvent that will melt styrene plastics. Obviously the DAM's vinyl-ized shell is not being affected. It is unlikely that polish remover would have any effect other than making a mess much messy-er.
Since the "goop off" your Dad used did the dissolving of the lettering in the first place that's the same stuff you use to clean up the smearing. But do it right...lay the machine face up on a table on a towel to avoid running drips. Sit in a chair under a bright light. After wiping away the surface smear, use toothpicks and Q-tips dipped in "goop off" to detail clean in and around the textured bumps.
Dave
