Need help wiring up a switch in a Silverado

[human]

So I've had this Electrolux Silverado for a couple of months that's missing the entire switch assembly, including its wiring harness. I recently acquired a switch assembly (switch and rocker) from a Super J, so the next step is to figure out how to wire it up. Four questions to begin the process:

1. Does anyone have a wiring diagram they can share a copy of? I guess I could tear down my Super J to see how it's wired, but I'd just as soon have the actual diagram.

2. What gauge wire do I need to use?

3. What size are the flat terminals that go on the ends of the wires?

4. What size screws hold the switch in place?

Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'll have other questions as I get into this project/mess. I don't need another vacuum but I just hate having it sit around in a non-functional state and I do enjoy a good challenge.

 

[madman]

18AWG wire will handle up to 10 amps. So 18AWG or bigger. Not sure, but the flat terminals you're referring to are probably standard blade connectors.

 

[quebecois]

Here is a picture of the switch on my SUperJ. It may not be of great help but this is what I can send you for the moment.

A friend of mine will bring me another SuperJ next week, if it needs some fixing I'll probably tear it apart and send you better pictures.

 

[human]

Thanks to both of you. I've got plenty of 18AWG wire in assorted colors. The next phase will be to figure out exactly where those wires need to be run.

 

[blknblu]

Here are some pics from a Diamond Jubilee, it is similar to a Silverado.
Has two switches on top for on/off.

 

[quebecois]

On my SuperJ, the red wire from the switch goes to a plate next to the dial . under the cover of the front section.

As for the other wire, I'm still unsure of where it goes.

 

[human]

So I ended up getting a complete OEM wiring harness from an Olympia to go into the Silverado. Hopefully, it's close enough to work. The only part I need at this point is the screws to hold the switch in place. In the absence of any sort of instructions, it seems logical to begin the installation mounting the switch, then running and connecting the wires. Does anybody know what size screws hold the switch in place or have a pair to spare? If I knew the right diameter and thread pitch, I'd just go buy some at Lowe's or wherever. Length is less important as I can cut them down to the right size, if necessary.

Thanks again for all the reference photos. I'm sure they'll come in handy and I'll keep y'all posted as the project progresses.

 

[human]

So after making my previous post, I decided to fetch the Silverado from the barn and tear it apart with a little help from the step-by-step instructions linked below. Once I got it broken down, I found the wiring harness is pretty much intact, so I don't actually need to re-wire the machine. The only thing really missing is the two wire terminals that connect to the switch. Some jackass had actually cut those off and twisted the two switch wires together with a wire nut so the machine would come on whenever it was plugged in. Really? I hate when people do stupid shit like that.

The good news is installing the switch will be easier than I had anticipated but I have a decision to make. I can go shopping for some new terminals to put on the ends of the wires to connect the switch or just cannibalize the replacement wiring harness for what I need. I've got to go out and get a replacement plug anyway, so I'll probably just shop for some connectors while I'm out and try to leave the other wiring harness intact. I just hate cutting up stuff when I don't have to. I suppose another option would be to solder the wires onto the switch, but I'd rather do it the way it was done at the factory. Mounting the switch will also be easy. All I need are a couple of small sheet metal screws. Everything else on that beast uses machine screws, except for the switch. Go figure...

http://chrisswingler.com/blog/2011/04/electrolux-diamond-jubilee-canister-vacuum-disassembly.html

 

[blknblu]

Take your time, and replace the terminals.
Measure the end on the switch where the terminal plugs into, and order the right size terminal.

The quick disconnect terminals are smaller than the ones you will usually find in the stores if I remember correctly. The common ones in the store are usually .250 or 1/4" inch.
I believe I ordered mine from Digi-Key. They are cheap enough that I actually made an assortment myself.

some common sizes are 312”, .250”, .187”, and .125”
that translated to 5/16", 1/4", 3/16", and 1/8"

I prefer non insulated terminals, and use heat shrink tubing for a finished look.

All of my stuff is packed up and in storage, so I cannot confirm the specific size.

 

[blknblu]

the crimper I use for un-insulated terminals is called an "Open Barrel Terminal Crimping Tool ",
you can also google BC-1 crimper as an alternative.

 

[quebecois]

The blade connectors I bought last week to fix an AP-100 broken cord are 3-16th of inch wide , and they are the same size as the ones that connect the motor to the cord winder and the motor to the harness, and so on, so my guess would be that you'll need the same size.

As for the small bolts or screws you need, I can't help for the moment.

 

[human]

Thanks, I found a couple of screws in a junk jar that will work. The blade connectors on the switch are definitely smaller than anything else on the machine, probably 3/16" or 1/8". I'll have to take a look at those crimpers because we all know any job worth doing is worth getting a new tool for. It's times like this when I sorta miss being able to just run up to Radio Shack and get the little parts I need, even if they did cost a bit more than they should have.

 

[quebecois]

Yep, you were right , the blade connectors are 1-8th wide, not 3-16th. I just measured one (female) in my SuperJ.

 

[blknblu]

I checked my Digi-key orders.
If it is 1/8", the ones I ordered are currently $.17 each.
When I ordered them, I had ordered a bunch of different sizes, so I could have them available.

 

[madman]

Digi Key has never let me down. I don't like that they charge you whatever they want for shipping and don't tell you up front... but they've always been reasonable about it, so I guess I can't complain.

 

[fantomfan57]

Nice....

What impresses me most about this thread is it the involved members willing to help each other.

No offense intended, just that I appreciated reading this thread.

Take care all.

 

[human]

Last night, I went ordered a package of 100 connectors for about $4.00. They're on the proverbial slow boat from China and are supposed to be here by the end of the month. The quantity was gross overkill but the price was right.

Just to keep from losing parts*, I went ahead and installed the switch--but obviously didn't hook it up-- and put the Silverado back together. The ivory colored Super J switch rocker stands out against the gray plastics but it's a perfect fit and its action feels good. After I put the new plug on the cord, I was tempted to twist the switch wires back together and fire the machine up, but I refrained. I'll finish my testing once everything is back together. For now, it's back to the barn for a few weeks until the connectors arrive.

*Once I got the vacuum back together, I found I had one screw left over. Not sure where it goes. It's a short, self-tapping screw with the thick head that Electrolux liked to use in that era, but unlike all the other screws I took out, it has a slotted head instead of Phillips. The odd thing is I don't remember having to change the bit on my ratchet screwdriver to remove a slotted screw.

 

[quebecois]

Maybe this screw was so loose in its hole it fell by itself, this would explain why you don't remember removing it. My SUperJ has these self-tapping screws to hold the rear part of the canister body, Philips head though. SOmeone may have replaced the original with a slotted one.

 

[human]

You could be right about that screw. I had it sitting up on end for a while with the cord winder off, so it could have fallen out then. Perhaps it helps hold the motor in place. I'll be giving it a thorough check when I tear it back down to finish installing the switch. I don't want anything flying apart when I finally fire it up.