Need Assistance in Diagnosing D80

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vaclab

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Messages
216
Location
Pickerington, Ohio
My wonderfully polished D80 will not run after re-assembly. The headlight comes on and I've checked for power at the brushes (brushes removed of course) and I see 121 volts, sooo I need help making my shiny beauty run once again. I know these machines had issues with switches and wiring, but so far, I can find no obvious problem. I have no issue re-wiring it to run on low speed permanently but would prefer not to do that.

With an ohm meter, would anyone know what the various readings should be at various testing points?

Bill

 
i have a service manual from that era

ill look and see if it has a electrical range chart for load testing wires. i remember seeing charts in there but forget what they were for. ive never used multi meters to troubleshoot problems on vacuums this old before. ill post back if i find anything useful for you.
 
Sounds like

Sounds like the speed control switch is bad. It makes contact for the light but no contact for the motor. I am willing to bet this is the problem. Direct connect the motor to see if it runs.
 
Hey

It is 1 of 3 things.
1. Bad safety switch
2. Bad power switch
3. The motor is not grounding out or power is grounding out.
I'd bet it's 1 of the first two as you have power with light. So it's probably safety switch.
Les
Good luck your videos on d80 are awesome.

Les
 
If it ran before you worked on it, then it should be an easy fix.

First check the wires at the safety switch to make sure none popped out like they do sometimes.

If you took any wires out of anywhere, make sure they are back in the right places.

Make sure motor brushes are not hanging up in the holder and springs are springy.

Make sure wires are securely fastened to the tabs to the motor brushes.

Clean commutator bars if you think polish could have gotten onto them.

If the above are fine, check the armature for any accidental damage that you might have not been aware of.
 
Two Speed Switch Wiring

Here's my best guess with the two speed switch. The yellow was loose, so I tinned it and shoved it back in. It's a tight fit now.

vaclab-2018112621244707042_1.jpg
 
Foot Switch Wiring

The #1 blue-ish wire was so loose that it practically fell off, so I tinned it and shoved it back in. It's a tight connection now.

vaclab-2018112621281107805_1.jpg
 
Replies to suggestions

To LesinUtah:

1. Bad safety switch <- probably
2. Bad power switch <- maybe
3. The motor is not grounding out or power is grounding out. <- possible

Thanks for your kind words, Les!

===================================

To TexasKirbyGuy:

If it ran before you worked on it, then it should be an easy fix. <- Yes it ran fine before I disassembled it for polishing.

First check the wires at the safety switch to make sure none popped out like they do sometimes. <- some popped out and now they are back in

If you took any wires out of anywhere, make sure they are back in the right places. <- yup, done

Make sure motor brushes are not hanging up in the holder and springs are springy. <- smooth operation and springy

Make sure wires are securely fastened to the tabs to the motor brushes. <- measured this with an ohm meter, seems OK.

Clean commutator bars if you think polish could have gotten onto them. <- polished and picked out build up between bars with a toothpick.

If the above are fine, check the armature for any accidental damage that you might have not been aware of. <- can't seem to find any damage so far.

========================================================

I can't wait to find out what's causing the motor not to spin at all. No sparks, just nothing. But, I do get the light bulb's glorious illumination.

I'll keep working on it...

Wonder which wires to directly connect for the motor to run at low speed?

Bill
 
My own experience...

Well...

I had a similar issue with it running perfect until i took it apart for polishing.

For me, I wound up discovering that I reinstalled the front bearing in reverse (very stupid, yes I know, but it happened).

Also, bad safety switch is a very real culprit. It’s super easy to harm the switch during disassembly no matter how careful you are. I’ve a spare unused one laying around. Let me know if you are interested.
 
Somebody around here should have the wiring diagram for the motor. I could swear someone just posted a similar diagram not a month ago. I'm not familiar with these machines, but I believe the motor is not wired totally straight forward. Like, there's an extra coil in the field for the light bulb, or some weird crap like that. If you say you have power at the brush holders, there should be SOME kind of action from the motor when it's assembled. If nothing else, try assembling it again, power it up, bypass any safeties, and spin the motor by hand, seeing if there's any response.

Actually another good question is, does the armature spin freely when totally installed?

Lastly, with everything installed, safeties bypassed, play with the speed switch (and any other switches O_o), and wiggle the wires at any at all points, see if there's any response. This is called the 'wiggle test.' You'd be surprised how often the wiggle test yields some kind of clue.
 
MadMan

The only electrical diagrams I have for Kirby vacuums include one for models 505-515 and 516-Sanitronic VII (all single speed) and one for the Heritage II. So it would be cool if Will (bnsd60m9200) could try to upload what he has for models Dual Sanitronic 50/80, as I have a D80 myself (and also a Classic 1CR - the third and last Kirby to use the speed switch in question).

~Ben
 
I think your speed switch is miswired...
Below is mine (from Tradition) before I took it apart. Also if you look carefully on the switch, you can see letters for each colors at each hole. Look for these and verify the positions.

Be very careful with wiring this switch as certain combinations will burn up the motor (don't ask me how I know...)

texaskirbyguy-2018112622043907982_1.jpg
 

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