Miele S7 U1 Control board help and motor swap caution

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greglig

New member
Joined
Jul 5, 2018
Messages
3
Location
Australia
Hi, all I recently was watching one of Performance Reviews (Vacuumdevil's) old videos on servicing a H1 Swing and he says that the motor is the same as the one S7 (this is only partially true).

I've been looking for an S7 (S7580) motors for a very long time with no success or way overpriced, there was a H1 going very cheap on a local auction site.

When I stripped it was indeed the same size and style but only 600w (a problem I can deal with later).

Motor part number is MRG 170-42/2
(This is the 240v European version but I think the US version will have the same problem).

Fitted everything and switched on to test, a huge blue arch from where the filter cavity is.

Stripped everything down and the upper control board is badly burn :-(

--- Here's the WARNING! ---
Turns out the motor does not have a Triac and over-temp switch on the internal control board. It just has link bars between pins.

Another caution is that the plug keying is the same and it's possible still connect the motor cable even if it's the wrong version.

It is possible to use a motors from A "H1 Swing" but the internal control module inside the motor needs to be swapped out with a variable speed version that has the Triac in it.

This unfortunately shorted the Triac gate control wire to 240 damaging the control board in the upper body of the machine.

At first I though I may be able to repair the board but it looks like pin 13 (Port B1) of the Atmel Micro Controller is damaged. The resistor coming off that pin is split meaning the port pin will be short to ground/supply rail or the chip is totally destroyed internally.

Can anyone take a photo of a good European 240v board?
(Close enough that I can read the SMD part numbers).

The reason Is I'll probably need to get a board from the US and modify it to work with 240v.

Or does anyone have a (UK/European) S7580 board they can sell me?
(The board with the full electronic controls ie "+" "-" and automatic buttons.)

Thanks.

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This is what needs to be swapped.

The motor needs to be disassembled to check if it's the correct part and/or change it.

Last photo shows the correct version with the Triac (photo by "chicagomike" posted a while ago on vacuumland).
Sorry forgot to take my own photo before I reassembled my machine.

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On the plus side I was able to bypass all the electronics to get my vacuum up and running.

The original Miele motor is so much better than the cheap universal motor someone had installed prior to me getting this

machine.

I'm really bummed about the control board being damaged but hopefully all the information I have posted here will help avoid

the same situation that I had in the future.


I will post a separate thread showing how to bypass the electronic control which maybe of some use to someone.

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