crazykirbydude
Well-known member
Sorry for the double post!
Miele S7 or U1 Parts Needed or Motor Help?
- Thread starter chicagomike
- Start date
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vacuumdevil
Well-known member
@madman
Well if you're not familiar with the platform maybe you shouldn't advise people on repairs that you don't understand.
To put it in the "car terms" you're concerned about a knock sensor when the piston has gone straight up into the valves.
The whole point you're missing here is it's not an electronic repair that's needed.
The motor needs to be changed out. It's clear in pictures that @chicagomike posted.
At this point I am sure @chicagomike it's probably no longer wantingvinvolved in this thread.
@chicagomike if you have a relationship with the Miele dealer now would be your time to ask a warranty favor
.
I wouldn't take advice from somebody @vaclab who had trouble wiring up something simple like a Kirby.
@madman Have a wonderful My Little pony field day!
Well if you're not familiar with the platform maybe you shouldn't advise people on repairs that you don't understand.
To put it in the "car terms" you're concerned about a knock sensor when the piston has gone straight up into the valves.
The whole point you're missing here is it's not an electronic repair that's needed.
The motor needs to be changed out. It's clear in pictures that @chicagomike posted.
At this point I am sure @chicagomike it's probably no longer wantingvinvolved in this thread.
@chicagomike if you have a relationship with the Miele dealer now would be your time to ask a warranty favor
. I wouldn't take advice from somebody @vaclab who had trouble wiring up something simple like a Kirby.
@madman Have a wonderful My Little pony field day!
vacuumdevil
Well-known member
@crazykirbydude you're you're right there shouldn't have even been an argument.
But then again that's the fun of vacuum land 2020
But then again that's the fun of vacuum land 2020
crazykirbydude
Well-known member
Thank you. Vacuumland is a better place when people aren't bickering! 
As far as the Miele goes, I'd just try and find another board to replace it. If it was something simple and common, like a resistor or capacitor, I'd say go for it. However, with that thyristor, If you don't get the EXACT same kind, it could cause issues and damage other things. I'm not really a fan of circuit boards in vacuums. Dust and heat are the two main enemies of electronics, and the inside of a vacuum has both of those. I do a lot of work with computers, and I've seen some that were killed by dust alone. I prefer a simple switch and motor setup. If I wanted variable speed control, a simple potentiometer would do the trick.
As far as the Miele goes, I'd just try and find another board to replace it. If it was something simple and common, like a resistor or capacitor, I'd say go for it. However, with that thyristor, If you don't get the EXACT same kind, it could cause issues and damage other things. I'm not really a fan of circuit boards in vacuums. Dust and heat are the two main enemies of electronics, and the inside of a vacuum has both of those. I do a lot of work with computers, and I've seen some that were killed by dust alone. I prefer a simple switch and motor setup. If I wanted variable speed control, a simple potentiometer would do the trick.
chicagomike
Well-known member
To Be Clear - Motor is Perfect
To Be Clear - Motor is Perfect --- ISSUE is the POS PCB attached to the motor. I swapped out another PCB from my other working vac and the non working motor ran fine - so the issue is the PCB. I cannot buy a new PCB as Miele makes you buy a new motor assembly.
Attached are close-ups. I look forward to hopefully being able to fix the PCB, if I cannot fix it the vacuum is 100% junk as I am not spending $150 on a new motor.
To Be Clear - Motor is Perfect --- ISSUE is the POS PCB attached to the motor. I swapped out another PCB from my other working vac and the non working motor ran fine - so the issue is the PCB. I cannot buy a new PCB as Miele makes you buy a new motor assembly.
Attached are close-ups. I look forward to hopefully being able to fix the PCB, if I cannot fix it the vacuum is 100% junk as I am not spending $150 on a new motor.
madman
Well-known member
@chicagomike - Looking at pic #1, the lower joint on the upper-most track looks a little crusty. It's hard to tell a cracked joint sometimes, even in person, under a magnifying glass. It could also just be a ring of flux crust. If you have a soldering iron and some flux, apply a touch of flux to it, then reflow the solder. Might be the only problem.
I'm trying to figure out what the other component is, nothing comes up for either number. I'll bet that's an internal number, and the real number is likely under that heatsink-looking thing on it (the one with the blue number sticker on it). The board has large tracks for it, with good separation between the two terminals. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say it's a fuse of some kind. It's between one side of the triac/thyristor's connection. Perhaps a thermal fuse, but that's an odd package, and it's in a weird place and wrapped what almost looks like a heatsink with a thermally conductive sheet thingy in between. Either which way, it looks like it should be continuous. Get out the multimeter and check resistance across it, then compare with the known-good one. I'll bet the known-good one is less than 1 ohm.
----
Continuation of the bickering: I'm usually quick on the draw to tell people they're just having a misunderstanding. But I was insulted, then he apologized, and proceeded to insult me more. Now he's taking pot shots at me for being a brony. lol getting desperate, are we? When you can't hold up your end of an argument, turn to insults? Couldn't even muster a good brony insult, I'm disappointed. Oh, and he also threw vaclab under the bus as well, just for good measure, and he wasn't even involved in our little 'adult conversation.' If that doesn't show you what kind of person vacuumdevil is, idk what will.
I'm trying to figure out what the other component is, nothing comes up for either number. I'll bet that's an internal number, and the real number is likely under that heatsink-looking thing on it (the one with the blue number sticker on it). The board has large tracks for it, with good separation between the two terminals. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say it's a fuse of some kind. It's between one side of the triac/thyristor's connection. Perhaps a thermal fuse, but that's an odd package, and it's in a weird place and wrapped what almost looks like a heatsink with a thermally conductive sheet thingy in between. Either which way, it looks like it should be continuous. Get out the multimeter and check resistance across it, then compare with the known-good one. I'll bet the known-good one is less than 1 ohm.
----
Continuation of the bickering: I'm usually quick on the draw to tell people they're just having a misunderstanding. But I was insulted, then he apologized, and proceeded to insult me more. Now he's taking pot shots at me for being a brony. lol getting desperate, are we? When you can't hold up your end of an argument, turn to insults? Couldn't even muster a good brony insult, I'm disappointed. Oh, and he also threw vaclab under the bus as well, just for good measure, and he wasn't even involved in our little 'adult conversation.' If that doesn't show you what kind of person vacuumdevil is, idk what will.
vacuumdevil
Well-known member
@chicagomike Date code on that shows that to be still under the warranty.
Those pictures you posted the motor look pretty fucci coochie. If you think it's alright that would be a first time I would have seen that when the board melts from the heat. But anything is possible. I'll check my stockpile tomorrow of used Miele parts and see if I have one I can send you.
@madman I wished you a nice day in all sincerity.
I know you don't know me in person but if I dislike you or had a problem with you you'd know it real fast.
Yes no secret that I disapprove vaclabs, but that's old hat.
Those pictures you posted the motor look pretty fucci coochie. If you think it's alright that would be a first time I would have seen that when the board melts from the heat. But anything is possible. I'll check my stockpile tomorrow of used Miele parts and see if I have one I can send you.
@madman I wished you a nice day in all sincerity.
I know you don't know me in person but if I dislike you or had a problem with you you'd know it real fast.
Yes no secret that I disapprove vaclabs, but that's old hat.
vacfan1982
Well-known member
Why do you disapprove of Vaclabs Alex? Has he upset you in some way or do you just disagree with his testing methods?
I think what he does is interesting. He is very much in love with his Kirby's I hope they don't come between him and his wife
I think what he does is interesting. He is very much in love with his Kirby's I hope they don't come between him and his wife
vacuumdevil
Well-known member
@vacfan1982 A little bit of column A ,little bit of column B .
I am not here to shit on anybody but send me a personal message I'd be happy to discuss the details.
I am not here to shit on anybody but send me a personal message I'd be happy to discuss the details.
vacfan1982
Well-known member
Where do I send the message Alex? Are you a member on here?
chicagomike
Well-known member
Date Code
Date code shows older then 7 years
Date code shows older then 7 years
chicagomike
Well-known member
Under Sticker
Nothing was under sticker. However I did notice words on the backside and believe it says KLIXON
Nothing was under sticker. However I did notice words on the backside and believe it says KLIXON
madman
Well-known member
Nice. I was thinking there might be writing under the metal clamp, which the sticker was on. The brand name might help though. Have you ohmed it?
vacuumdevil
Well-known member
@chicagomike I looked through my pile I only have one for an S5 which is completely different.
In Post# 420954 I was looking at the date code on the board. Maybe the motor was replaced in 2014 then. Sad that it's out of warranty.
Good luck to you.
In Post# 420954 I was looking at the date code on the board. Maybe the motor was replaced in 2014 then. Sad that it's out of warranty.
Good luck to you.
madman
Well-known member
Klixon makes a line of electromechanical products. This is almost certainly a thermal cutoff. A bimetal switch, basically. We don't know the temperature specs though. I still think there will be a part number under that metal clamp / heat sink thing on it.
Then again, we haven't confirmed it's the problem yet.
Then again, we haven't confirmed it's the problem yet.
chicagomike
Well-known member
Update
Today, I took the board from a working motor, and placed the PCB into the motor which was not working, AND the non-working motor worked!! So the issue is 100% the board.
On the broken PCB, I do have continuity between all connected points. The issue is 100% the PCB.
Any more thoughts on where to buy the 2 parts so I can try to get the motor working?
Today, I took the board from a working motor, and placed the PCB into the motor which was not working, AND the non-working motor worked!! So the issue is 100% the board.
On the broken PCB, I do have continuity between all connected points. The issue is 100% the PCB.
Any more thoughts on where to buy the 2 parts so I can try to get the motor working?
chicagomike
Well-known member
Continuity
Between any 2 points with arrows of the same color there was continuity.
Between any 2 points with arrows of the same color there was continuity.
madman
Well-known member
Check the picture. Ensure continuity exists between terminals 1 and 2. Continuity is less than 1 ohm, and not infinity, ensure meter readout is reading in ohms, not K ohms or M ohms. If continuity exists, the Klixon temperature switch is (probably) ok.
Next, ensure the solder joint at the arrow is in good shape. You might want to reflow it just for the heck of it, to be 100% sure, because it looks cracked in the photo. A continuity check regarding that joint should not be trusted, as it may conduct enough to please a meter, but not to pass the several amps to the motor.
If the above are in order, just order a couple of those thyristors from the mouser link provided by vaclab. Digikey would be another option. Also, there's no sense in ordering just one, order 5 or so, and keep spares for other machines as this appears to be a common issue. Especially at $1.50 apiece, because shipping for probably up to 100 of them will likely be about $5-10.
Next, ensure the solder joint at the arrow is in good shape. You might want to reflow it just for the heck of it, to be 100% sure, because it looks cracked in the photo. A continuity check regarding that joint should not be trusted, as it may conduct enough to please a meter, but not to pass the several amps to the motor.
If the above are in order, just order a couple of those thyristors from the mouser link provided by vaclab. Digikey would be another option. Also, there's no sense in ordering just one, order 5 or so, and keep spares for other machines as this appears to be a common issue. Especially at $1.50 apiece, because shipping for probably up to 100 of them will likely be about $5-10.
chicagomike
Well-known member
Madman
You want me to peel off the heat shield or whatever it is - the piece with the purple arrows? I sure wont hurt anything as I cant break it since something on it is already not working.
You want me to peel off the heat shield or whatever it is - the piece with the purple arrows? I sure wont hurt anything as I cant break it since something on it is already not working.
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