Miele S7 or U1 Parts Needed or Motor Help?

[chicagomike]

If anyone has parts for a Miele S7 (or U1) series vac I am in need of the part shown in the first picture. Or can I bypass the over heat protection - shame to junk the vac because the motor itself works as I swapped the part I need from a working vac and then this broken vac motor worked and red light disappeared.

 

[crazykirbydude]

If you take good care of the vacuum, I see no problem with bypassing the overheat cutoff.

 

[chicagomike]

If bypassing is the only solution as no one has the part needed, which wire is omitted? See Photo 4 - wire 2, 3, or 4 is omitted and See photo 10 the other 2 remaining will be connected directly to terminal in the motor where the overload was connected.

 

[chicagomike]

Here are the 2 pics I was referring to

 

[vacuumdevil]

They're going to toast The other board if you try to bypass that.

Unfortunately that parts only available the fan motor.

you might call your local dealer and see if they have any motors with bad bearings.

 

[vaclab]

Part T2050H-6T is a Thyristor

And is available for $1.67 from here:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/T2050H-6T?qs=cHcTzCDd3fpSyEC%2BQoKu2g==

It controls the speed of the motor.

I'm unable to tell what the other part is on that board. If you can get clear pics, you can Google it and grab it from whomever sells it the cheapest.

Bill

 

[madman]

Second on vaclab. The part you need is literally just two components that are probably less than $10 for a handful of both. Snap a pic of the other side of that little board so we can see what the other thing is.

 

[madman]

Matter of fact, also take a very close, very clear picture of the underside of the board as well. Might not even need a component, might be cracked solder joints.

 

[crazykirbydude]

Why not just tear out all the fancy gadgetry and wire the cord directly to the motor with a toggle switch? I don't know why Miele decided to go the plasticrap route and put unnecessary circuit boards in their vacuums.

 

[vacuumdevil]

@crazykirbydude Those circuit boards there's two of them in this machine are very necessary for their operation. They are not cheapening the vacuum in any way.
Motor trizact boards are used by most companies out there. The secondary board by the handle what's the userknow error codes, and allows electronic speed control.

@vaclab @madman
I would very much take caution into soldering a new part on.
There is a reason then it went out usually caused by a problem with the motor itself. If you do decide to go this route you must make sure it is from the exact same brand and company that made it for Miele! The engineer these things with extremely tight tolerances getting the wrong component could cause other things to happen.

 

[madman]

@vacuumdevil, if the component part bears the same exact part number, it should be in tolerance of all the design specs of the original. I mean yeah... there could be sub-par components, but it's not the 1970s anymore, the Chinese literally make 90% of electronic components now. And it's just a thyristor (1970s technology), it's not some bleeding edge cpu or something.

Of course, matching the part number exactly *IS* essential.

 

[vacuumdevil]

@madman The circuit boards from Miele are not made in China most of the circuit boards are made in Ukraine or Germany depending on the machine.
You don't have much experience with tight tolerances of engineering.

I can think of several times when manufacturers have had the components swapped out without their knowledge and it's caused issues.
This is happens not only to Miele but also to SEBO.

At the end of the day this whole motor really should be changed. Trying to repai board after it was taken out by something else is generally a bad idea.

I'm appalled that people vacuumland are even suggesting these Bojack repairs that simply are not going to work and cause OP to waste money and time.

I know you guys think you're help. I have fixed thousands of these machines over the years it's well-documented what to change when things happen.

Looking at the second picture again
@chicagomike that motor is in poor condition and needs to be changed out.

I would be willing to bet the machine was either used without the bag in place or has some sort of flood damage in it.

 

[broomvac]

If it were me, I’d just replace the thyristor...and I’m an engineer. Those components are very inexpensive to source, so what’s the harm in trying? Madman’s right; if you get the same part number, you’re good to go.

 

[madman]

@vacuumdevil - Listen, I get that you're trying to help as well. But you need to take a step down from your high horse, buddy. I am a mechanic. I repair things for a living. And I know plenty about engineering tolerances and subpar parts. Look. I'm going to ask you very nicely: please don't patronize me on the topic of repairing machines.

Further, there's nothing 'bojack' about using an identical part to repair something. What you're suggesting - replacing the entire motor unit because one tiny part is bad - is appallingly wasteful (you're filling landfills), and not cost effective for somebody who's apparently repairing their own vacuum. Your way of thinking, to just change the whole unit, is how repairs are done to things under warranty. And the manufacturer does it that way because they do thousands of such repairs, and the 10% chance a repair (as versus a replacement) will not work, adds up to hundreds of cases that each hurt their reputation and cost them lots of money. The end user fixing ONE or TWO machines is a completely different scenario, and has to be treated as such. With an assumed 10% chance of not working, it doesn't even matter, because it's worth the gamble. Wouldn't you bet money on something with a 90% chance of winning? Those are good odds. And even IF it doesn't work, he'll just fix it again! Waste of money, you say. Less than $10 for a component part, admittedly, it may not work, or he may damage the board trying to solder it, fine. That's a gamble. It's none of our business whether he decides to gamble on that or not. But I'll tell you one thing, that motor unit is probably minimum $100, am I right? How is gambling $10 a 'waste of money' compared to spending $100 outright without even trying to save that money?

I don't know about Chicagomike, but not everyone is made of money.

 

[vacuumdevil]

keep it Kosher

@madman Sorry if you feel that I am patronizing you that is not my intent. If I was going to do that you'd hear some bronie remarks

Nobody has suggested using the proper parts. Let alone the proper components.

I have years of experience and thousands of repairs that I'm referring to when I speak of this sort of stuff. I know your auto mechanic and very mechanical so the situation is even more perplexing to you. It's not a $10 Gamble it's a another $400 worth of parts that could get messed up by doing that. How many Miele s7 or U1 vacuums have you worked on?

 

[madman]

"How many Miele s7 or U1 vacuums have you worked on?"

None, but I've probably repaired more electronics and circuit boards than you have, and that's the topic we're discussing here. Also, you're still patronizing me. Seriously, what's with the condescending attitude, man? We're both here to help someone else make a repair.

Check out the link, which was provided by vaclab. See the manufacturer's logo? Good, now check out the first picture of the first post in this thread. Tell me that isn't the same logo on that thyristor. An *identical* part from the *same* manufacturer is not 'bojack,' end of story.

I'll agree, yeah things can go wrong. But a properly installed identical part will NOT cause a problem, period. On the other hand, an improperly installed part might. But I fail to see how that has anything to do with the problem at hand. Neither one of us is the one making the repair to this machine. And quite honestly, I feel like you're being condescending to me AND chicagomike. What you're implying is that neither me nor he is capable of repairing a circuit board. Because apparently it will cause so much damage to other parts. Right. He's already done a good job troubleshooting. I think you need to take a step back and let chicagomike decide for himself whether he's up for tackling a repair like that.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/T2050H-6T?qs=cHcTzCDd3fpSyEC%2BQoKu2g==

 

[madman]

Matter of fact, tell you what. Hey, chicagomike, mail me that part. I'll fix it for free just to prove a point.

 

[crazykirbydude]

Both of you really need to calm down. It's not your vacuum, so why are you arguing online over a vacuum that isn't even yours? Just be nice! It takes away the fun of this forum when people are constantly bickering. You guys are grown adults arguing online over a tiny little thyristor. Think about that for a bit.

 

[crazykirbydude]

Both of you really need to calm down. It's not your vacuum, so why are you arguing online over a vacuum that isn't even yours? Just be nice! It takes away the fun of this forum when people are constantly bickering. You guys are grown adults arguing online over a tiny little thyristor. Think about that for a bit.

 

[crazykirbydude]

Sorry for the double post!

 

[rdwdcp]

Crazykirbydude

Hello

 

[vacuumdevil]

@madman

Well if you're not familiar with the platform maybe you shouldn't advise people on repairs that you don't understand.
To put it in the "car terms" you're concerned about a knock sensor when the piston has gone straight up into the valves.

The whole point you're missing here is it's not an electronic repair that's needed.

The motor needs to be changed out. It's clear in pictures that @chicagomike posted.

At this point I am sure @chicagomike it's probably no longer wantingvinvolved in this thread.
@chicagomike if you have a relationship with the Miele dealer now would be your time to ask a warranty favor .

I wouldn't take advice from somebody @vaclab who had trouble wiring up something simple like a Kirby.


@madman Have a wonderful My Little pony field day!

 

[vacuumdevil]

@crazykirbydude you're you're right there shouldn't have even been an argument.

But then again that's the fun of vacuum land 2020

 

[crazykirbydude]

Thank you. Vacuumland is a better place when people aren't bickering! As far as the Miele goes, I'd just try and find another board to replace it. If it was something simple and common, like a resistor or capacitor, I'd say go for it. However, with that thyristor, If you don't get the EXACT same kind, it could cause issues and damage other things. I'm not really a fan of circuit boards in vacuums. Dust and heat are the two main enemies of electronics, and the inside of a vacuum has both of those. I do a lot of work with computers, and I've seen some that were killed by dust alone. I prefer a simple switch and motor setup. If I wanted variable speed control, a simple potentiometer would do the trick.

 

[chicagomike]

To Be Clear - Motor is Perfect

To Be Clear - Motor is Perfect --- ISSUE is the POS PCB attached to the motor. I swapped out another PCB from my other working vac and the non working motor ran fine - so the issue is the PCB. I cannot buy a new PCB as Miele makes you buy a new motor assembly.

Attached are close-ups. I look forward to hopefully being able to fix the PCB, if I cannot fix it the vacuum is 100% junk as I am not spending $150 on a new motor.

 

[madman]

@chicagomike - Looking at pic #1, the lower joint on the upper-most track looks a little crusty. It's hard to tell a cracked joint sometimes, even in person, under a magnifying glass. It could also just be a ring of flux crust. If you have a soldering iron and some flux, apply a touch of flux to it, then reflow the solder. Might be the only problem.

I'm trying to figure out what the other component is, nothing comes up for either number. I'll bet that's an internal number, and the real number is likely under that heatsink-looking thing on it (the one with the blue number sticker on it). The board has large tracks for it, with good separation between the two terminals. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say it's a fuse of some kind. It's between one side of the triac/thyristor's connection. Perhaps a thermal fuse, but that's an odd package, and it's in a weird place and wrapped what almost looks like a heatsink with a thermally conductive sheet thingy in between. Either which way, it looks like it should be continuous. Get out the multimeter and check resistance across it, then compare with the known-good one. I'll bet the known-good one is less than 1 ohm.

----

Continuation of the bickering: I'm usually quick on the draw to tell people they're just having a misunderstanding. But I was insulted, then he apologized, and proceeded to insult me more. Now he's taking pot shots at me for being a brony. lol getting desperate, are we? When you can't hold up your end of an argument, turn to insults? Couldn't even muster a good brony insult, I'm disappointed. Oh, and he also threw vaclab under the bus as well, just for good measure, and he wasn't even involved in our little 'adult conversation.' If that doesn't show you what kind of person vacuumdevil is, idk what will.

 

[vacuumdevil]

@chicagomike Date code on that shows that to be still under the warranty.
Those pictures you posted the motor look pretty fucci coochie. If you think it's alright that would be a first time I would have seen that when the board melts from the heat. But anything is possible. I'll check my stockpile tomorrow of used Miele parts and see if I have one I can send you.

@madman I wished you a nice day in all sincerity.
I know you don't know me in person but if I dislike you or had a problem with you you'd know it real fast.
Yes no secret that I disapprove vaclabs, but that's old hat.

 

[vacfan1982]

Why do you disapprove of Vaclabs Alex? Has he upset you in some way or do you just disagree with his testing methods?

I think what he does is interesting. He is very much in love with his Kirby's I hope they don't come between him and his wife

 

[vacuumdevil]

@vacfan1982 A little bit of column A ,little bit of column B .
I am not here to shit on anybody but send me a personal message I'd be happy to discuss the details.