uhm......Let's try here so you have some time to think t
You can call me later, but I'm real bad at explaining over the phone. As I see what I write out, I can see if I can follow my own directions...LOL
That said, I will try to explain this some more....
PART 2-
The ends of the wires, coming out of that little tunnel, sheathed in thick plastic are stripped at the end. There are no screws, or other devices really holiding in the wire per se'in the switch.... These wire ends are hardened with some sort of material (possibly solder); to prevent fraying. These "ends" simply are held in by pressure from a spring

like metal strip up inside.
(God I wish I had a manual I could scan here)...
What this means is in summaration ( and noticing that no one else has the temerity or has agreed to add to add anything), is that you can use a pair of needle nose pliers, and grip the wire(s) up by where they enter the plastic switch; and GENTLY pull downwards. The wires will come out with some force, BUT not TOOO MUCH force. The springs will give way, and the wire SHOULD pop out.
When you go into replacing the switch after buffing, you take these hardened wire ends, and firmly seat each wire up inside the switch thru the proper hole(s), using the needle nose pliers if you need to to have additional leverage. If the spring inside has caught the wire, you should NOT be able to just pullout the wire by gently tugging with just your fingers.
Oh yeah, there isn't a whole lot of wire available to work with so it may seem like you're working in cramped quarters to complete this. You may mash your fingers, or get some sort of boo boo. Kirbies used to me make me swear till it made the air in my shop as purple as can be....
Chad