Just won on eBay...
- Thread starter jmurray01
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Right, got one more question!
Did those Dustettes require paper bags, or was the cloth bag the primary dust collection and filtration method ?
I see you can buy bags for the Dustette, but the illustrations look to be more modern.
Also, even if they didn't originally require bags, could you put a paper bag in it to increase filtration ?
Did those Dustettes require paper bags, or was the cloth bag the primary dust collection and filtration method ?
I see you can buy bags for the Dustette, but the illustrations look to be more modern.
Also, even if they didn't originally require bags, could you put a paper bag in it to increase filtration ?
vacbear58
Well-known member
Bags
Jamie
Bags seem to have come and gone with the dustette. It appears that they were introduced with the model following yours (and this was more or less the time when Hoover were introducing paper bags across the range, and I think this bag used teh satin like material used on the 638 1334 etc) only to be dropped again later on - presumably they were not popular and a heavier weave cloth bag was used.
I would suggest using a bag from your ranger although you may need to cut it down in length. Having given the bag from your dustette a good vacuuming push the papetr bag in and try and open it out as much as possible - if you have small hands and wrists you may even manage to get your hand inside the bag - I would have thought you could more or less line the cloth bag. Fold the bag back over the bag opening and trim off the excess paper. It wont look tidy but it will improve filtration and help protect the cloth bag. Dont let it get too full otherwise you wont be able to get it back out again without ripping, although thinking about it, if you empty it after each use in the recommended manner (upending the bag over a sheet of newspaper) you would not need to change the paper bag that often - I would have thought with the low power (and the restriction to the airflow will reduce that power anyway) the pores of the bag wont get blocked that quickly.
The only bags for a dustette I have seen recently were for the last model dustette which was of a completely different design and for which paper bags were mandatory
Al
Jamie
Bags seem to have come and gone with the dustette. It appears that they were introduced with the model following yours (and this was more or less the time when Hoover were introducing paper bags across the range, and I think this bag used teh satin like material used on the 638 1334 etc) only to be dropped again later on - presumably they were not popular and a heavier weave cloth bag was used.
I would suggest using a bag from your ranger although you may need to cut it down in length. Having given the bag from your dustette a good vacuuming push the papetr bag in and try and open it out as much as possible - if you have small hands and wrists you may even manage to get your hand inside the bag - I would have thought you could more or less line the cloth bag. Fold the bag back over the bag opening and trim off the excess paper. It wont look tidy but it will improve filtration and help protect the cloth bag. Dont let it get too full otherwise you wont be able to get it back out again without ripping, although thinking about it, if you empty it after each use in the recommended manner (upending the bag over a sheet of newspaper) you would not need to change the paper bag that often - I would have thought with the low power (and the restriction to the airflow will reduce that power anyway) the pores of the bag wont get blocked that quickly.
The only bags for a dustette I have seen recently were for the last model dustette which was of a completely different design and for which paper bags were mandatory
Al
Thanks for that piece of information Al, I think I'll just use it with the original cloth bag if that was what was standard at the time.
Right, now to the main point of posting this - the Dustette came this morning!
When I first took the box out of the box (if you know what I mean) I found a very good condition original, but dusty, box.
Inside, what did I find ? A HOOVER Dustette Model 100!
Also very dusty I may add.
The first thing I did was the most important - safety. I checked the super long flex (to think I was worrying about it being too short!) for damage, of which there was none (not even a nick!). I then checked the plug which was fitted and although it looked alright on the face of it, under closer inspection it looked to have been pushed in too much where the Neutral and Live prongs are.
I took the plug apart to find the wiring very untidy and relatively dangerous, the copper wires were protruding from the terminals. Not excessively, but enough to require rectifying.
I decided, just to be on the safe side, I'd replace the 1950s plug, which had no British Standards stamp on it, thus rendering it risky in my books to use, especially with the "dents" in it.
So I got another black plug I'd taken from an old aquatic Air Pump which failed and fitted it. It blends in because it is black but is more importantly safe because it is only a few years old and has the British Standards stamp. I also replaced the original 13 Amp fuse for a 3 Amp one, thus increasing the safety in case of an electrical failure.
Then I plugged it in and tested that it worked, which it did, very quietly to my surprise.
Now that I knew it worked, I took the bag off, cleaned it thoroughly in soapy water and stuck it in the Bendix 7414 to dry (it was threatening to rain outside and the tumble dryer would bring it up better anyway).
While that was in motion I got a bowl of soapy water and cleaned the Dustette, which looked very neglected and thus I thought possibly in bad condition.
FAR FROM IT. With a good wipe the gold and dark grey bodywork looked next to new!
It improved further when I sprayed it with some furniture polish and buffed it up with a duster, how ironic...
Better still, it has a lovely shiny ratings plate on which it states the motor is compatible with both Direct-Current and Alternating-Current (why is this ?), it has a 140W motor, is the Model 100 and has the Serial Number: 191003. If I could get a definite age from that I'd be grateful.
So, by then the bag was dry and looking brilliant with little fading on the logo and after reattaching the bag cuff to the bag it was complete. I gave it a wee test on the rug and the suction is amazing for something its age.
I will now post a picture of it.
Right, now to the main point of posting this - the Dustette came this morning!
When I first took the box out of the box (if you know what I mean) I found a very good condition original, but dusty, box.
Inside, what did I find ? A HOOVER Dustette Model 100!
Also very dusty I may add.
The first thing I did was the most important - safety. I checked the super long flex (to think I was worrying about it being too short!) for damage, of which there was none (not even a nick!). I then checked the plug which was fitted and although it looked alright on the face of it, under closer inspection it looked to have been pushed in too much where the Neutral and Live prongs are.
I took the plug apart to find the wiring very untidy and relatively dangerous, the copper wires were protruding from the terminals. Not excessively, but enough to require rectifying.
I decided, just to be on the safe side, I'd replace the 1950s plug, which had no British Standards stamp on it, thus rendering it risky in my books to use, especially with the "dents" in it.
So I got another black plug I'd taken from an old aquatic Air Pump which failed and fitted it. It blends in because it is black but is more importantly safe because it is only a few years old and has the British Standards stamp. I also replaced the original 13 Amp fuse for a 3 Amp one, thus increasing the safety in case of an electrical failure.
Then I plugged it in and tested that it worked, which it did, very quietly to my surprise.
Now that I knew it worked, I took the bag off, cleaned it thoroughly in soapy water and stuck it in the Bendix 7414 to dry (it was threatening to rain outside and the tumble dryer would bring it up better anyway).
While that was in motion I got a bowl of soapy water and cleaned the Dustette, which looked very neglected and thus I thought possibly in bad condition.
FAR FROM IT. With a good wipe the gold and dark grey bodywork looked next to new!
It improved further when I sprayed it with some furniture polish and buffed it up with a duster, how ironic...
Better still, it has a lovely shiny ratings plate on which it states the motor is compatible with both Direct-Current and Alternating-Current (why is this ?), it has a 140W motor, is the Model 100 and has the Serial Number: 191003. If I could get a definite age from that I'd be grateful.
So, by then the bag was dry and looking brilliant with little fading on the logo and after reattaching the bag cuff to the bag it was complete. I gave it a wee test on the rug and the suction is amazing for something its age.
I will now post a picture of it.
vintagerepairer
Well-known member
Jamie may I congratulate you on your diligence and attention to detail over the plug. Well done. The absence of a BS 1363 stamp on a 13 amp plug does not necessarily mean the plug is dangerous or didn't ever meet the standard, because often the case was that such a design of none-BS 1363 plug would later go one to be accredited with this status as time progressed. So you may yet come across an identical plug which has the BS 1363 stamp.
One of the biggest changes to 13 amp plugs and adaptors was back in the 1960's and maybe even earlier, when what you might call slimline plugs were found to be very dangerous as the user could easily slip their fingers around the back of the plug when removing it from a socket or adaptor. As a result manufactures began making much wider, chunkier plugs, and even the more streamlined plugs were very wide on the outside edges of the live and neutral pins. If you can find yourself an Ever Ready or Crabtree plug you will see just how large some were in order to make a good, solid, safe plug.
Some adaptors were very, very compact and this too presented problems, because those which tapered in towards the pins allowed great access to live parts. Insert a slimline plug into one of those and you have a recipe for disaster. Another disadvantage of compact adaptors (though no doubt seen wholly as an advantage by those who did such things) was that it was easier to double-up two or even more adaptors in a single socket outlet. This was easier still if an extension lead was used as the very design of the trailing socket outlet allowed greater physical freedom to at attach even more adaptors. One of the selling features of MK adaptors was the large lump of hard plastic on the front of the adaptor, which prevented other adaptors being plugged into it. I saw new version recently, well in the last 10 years or roundabouts, and even that retained the original idea of a plastic moulding on the front.
But by far the greatest safety improvement on a standard 13 amp plug was the introduction of the part insulated pins. Crabtree offered this as an alternative to their standard none-sleeved plug, but MK were the ones who led the way. This was the early 1970's. There safety plug as we know it today was around 2 to 3 times the price of a cheaper alternative, but they were so incredibly popular. Indeed many shops like mine would have a box of MK plugs alongside a box of cheaper alternatives. Even though both conformed to BS 1363, you always got someone who wanted an MK plug and someone who didn't want to pay quite that amount. In 1977 My father had something to do with the decision made at Morphy Richards to supply all their new appliances with an MK safety plug already fitted as standard.
During the earlier part of the 1980's Morphy Richards discontinued the use of the MK plug as Volex had introduced their Pencon moulded plug which was a good deal cheaper, and appliance flexes were delivered to the factory with plugs already attached. This cut down on assembly costs as well, because if my failing memory is to be believed I think the girls on the production line at Morphy Richards used to have to fit plugs either as part of the assembly of a new appliance or as a separate activity. The Pencon plug did not have the insulated pins which the MK was famous for. However, when House of Carmen took over the company the very idea of attaching a plug to every new appliance was scrapped altogether.
As for plugs on sale in shops, by the late 1980's it was necessary for all 13amp plugs on sale to have the part insulated pins.
One of the biggest changes to 13 amp plugs and adaptors was back in the 1960's and maybe even earlier, when what you might call slimline plugs were found to be very dangerous as the user could easily slip their fingers around the back of the plug when removing it from a socket or adaptor. As a result manufactures began making much wider, chunkier plugs, and even the more streamlined plugs were very wide on the outside edges of the live and neutral pins. If you can find yourself an Ever Ready or Crabtree plug you will see just how large some were in order to make a good, solid, safe plug.
Some adaptors were very, very compact and this too presented problems, because those which tapered in towards the pins allowed great access to live parts. Insert a slimline plug into one of those and you have a recipe for disaster. Another disadvantage of compact adaptors (though no doubt seen wholly as an advantage by those who did such things) was that it was easier to double-up two or even more adaptors in a single socket outlet. This was easier still if an extension lead was used as the very design of the trailing socket outlet allowed greater physical freedom to at attach even more adaptors. One of the selling features of MK adaptors was the large lump of hard plastic on the front of the adaptor, which prevented other adaptors being plugged into it. I saw new version recently, well in the last 10 years or roundabouts, and even that retained the original idea of a plastic moulding on the front.
But by far the greatest safety improvement on a standard 13 amp plug was the introduction of the part insulated pins. Crabtree offered this as an alternative to their standard none-sleeved plug, but MK were the ones who led the way. This was the early 1970's. There safety plug as we know it today was around 2 to 3 times the price of a cheaper alternative, but they were so incredibly popular. Indeed many shops like mine would have a box of MK plugs alongside a box of cheaper alternatives. Even though both conformed to BS 1363, you always got someone who wanted an MK plug and someone who didn't want to pay quite that amount. In 1977 My father had something to do with the decision made at Morphy Richards to supply all their new appliances with an MK safety plug already fitted as standard.
During the earlier part of the 1980's Morphy Richards discontinued the use of the MK plug as Volex had introduced their Pencon moulded plug which was a good deal cheaper, and appliance flexes were delivered to the factory with plugs already attached. This cut down on assembly costs as well, because if my failing memory is to be believed I think the girls on the production line at Morphy Richards used to have to fit plugs either as part of the assembly of a new appliance or as a separate activity. The Pencon plug did not have the insulated pins which the MK was famous for. However, when House of Carmen took over the company the very idea of attaching a plug to every new appliance was scrapped altogether.
As for plugs on sale in shops, by the late 1980's it was necessary for all 13amp plugs on sale to have the part insulated pins.
vintagerepairer
Well-known member
Sorry. The live and neutral pins of modern plugs are part insulated in plastic. It is usually black or white, but it can be any colour. I have seen blue & brown to correspond with L and N and for a long while Hotpoint moulded plugs had orange pins. The idea is that if the user puts his or her pins around the plug whilst there is enough pin in the socket for the plug to be live, they will touch the plastic insulation on the pin.
vintagerepairer
Well-known member
Ah well you see, you're alright then. But getting a good grip on a plug is not always an easy matter, particularly if the plug is slim in design as I mentioned to you earlier, and if, God forbid, the user had wet hands. So sometimes fingers slipped behind the plug very easily and of course water is easily dripped.
Now I can appreciate that wall sockets without switches are not commonplace today, but it wasn't until the 1980's that every new home had switched sockets in all rooms as standard. Though it would obvioulsy fall to the builder as to what switchgear was installed, all too often it was only in the kitchen areas where switched sockets were used, if at all. Un-switched wall sockets were originally a good deal cheaper, but as the benefits of switched sockets became recognised, prices did fall as switched socket outlets led the way. So, if you consider the number of un-switched sockets in daily use in previous times, and no doubt to this very day, it is not uncommon for 13 amp plugs to be removed from the wall socket whilst still live.
Now I can appreciate that wall sockets without switches are not commonplace today, but it wasn't until the 1980's that every new home had switched sockets in all rooms as standard. Though it would obvioulsy fall to the builder as to what switchgear was installed, all too often it was only in the kitchen areas where switched sockets were used, if at all. Un-switched wall sockets were originally a good deal cheaper, but as the benefits of switched sockets became recognised, prices did fall as switched socket outlets led the way. So, if you consider the number of un-switched sockets in daily use in previous times, and no doubt to this very day, it is not uncommon for 13 amp plugs to be removed from the wall socket whilst still live.
I didn't know that, interesting indeed!
I understand why some people may feel the need to pull it out from the inside, as I have a couple of plugs which are obstinate to remove. One of which being the Nettle one on my Ranger, that is a bugger to get out sometimes, even though the pins are fine.
Luckily it has good grip slots at the sides which counteract this.
I understand why some people may feel the need to pull it out from the inside, as I have a couple of plugs which are obstinate to remove. One of which being the Nettle one on my Ranger, that is a bugger to get out sometimes, even though the pins are fine.
Luckily it has good grip slots at the sides which counteract this.
uksausage
Well-known member
adams and jarret
adams and jarret is on norman road in st leonards (hastings) i used to be in there all the time they used to give me the old vacs they taken as trade ins many years ago and the collection of machines in there was out of this world almost every model that was on sale. the place is still there today and does an amazing trade
dave
x
adams and jarret is on norman road in st leonards (hastings) i used to be in there all the time they used to give me the old vacs they taken as trade ins many years ago and the collection of machines in there was out of this world almost every model that was on sale. the place is still there today and does an amazing trade
dave
x
(video credit: U5096)
This appears to be one of the last Dustettes ever made, from 1989. It is gray colored with a white/gray bag.
~Ben
Colour impossible to match, I fear...
I think the last thing you should ever try to do, is repainting it ! I have a DUSTETTE like yours - also with few scratches - and :
- the front is gold-hammer-color quite DIFFICULT to match
- the main body is brown with ( crazy ) wrinkle-finish, IMPOSSIBLE to match ( and tricky to polish too ! )exept in case you want to create a fake.
That's why I would suggest you to give it a good polish and leave-it as is. If it can be of any help, BRASSO-cottons for SILVER - sometimes also sold as DURAGLIT ( but don't buy the liquid one ) are very useful to remove old spots and much dirt from such items. Every hardware store has it and - even if it smells gazoline for while - it's the best product for polishing both metals and plastics without causing any damage or leaving powder traces. Brasso is often used to polish plastic screens such on cell-phones ond other sensible plastics so...you risk no damage at all.
I suppose they kept this colour scheme - typical of other Hoover upright cleaners from the late 30's like the 160,262 or 612 until the new generation of cleaners ( 652 Deluxe Cleaner, etc ) were introduced in the late 50's, even if I have no precise dates for the DUSTETTE.
But it's very nice to display them together, as the DUSTETTE looks like their "little sister" ! And 5 pounds certainly IS a great deal !
Cheers, GUIDO
I think the last thing you should ever try to do, is repainting it ! I have a DUSTETTE like yours - also with few scratches - and :
- the front is gold-hammer-color quite DIFFICULT to match
- the main body is brown with ( crazy ) wrinkle-finish, IMPOSSIBLE to match ( and tricky to polish too ! )exept in case you want to create a fake.
That's why I would suggest you to give it a good polish and leave-it as is. If it can be of any help, BRASSO-cottons for SILVER - sometimes also sold as DURAGLIT ( but don't buy the liquid one ) are very useful to remove old spots and much dirt from such items. Every hardware store has it and - even if it smells gazoline for while - it's the best product for polishing both metals and plastics without causing any damage or leaving powder traces. Brasso is often used to polish plastic screens such on cell-phones ond other sensible plastics so...you risk no damage at all.
I suppose they kept this colour scheme - typical of other Hoover upright cleaners from the late 30's like the 160,262 or 612 until the new generation of cleaners ( 652 Deluxe Cleaner, etc ) were introduced in the late 50's, even if I have no precise dates for the DUSTETTE.
But it's very nice to display them together, as the DUSTETTE looks like their "little sister" ! And 5 pounds certainly IS a great deal !
Cheers, GUIDO
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