Just got this Kirby
- Thread starter scudo
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human
Well-known member
That's a nice machine. I think you just about stole it at that price. It should shine up really well. It's cool that you got the Handi Butler to go with it. You might even be able to use it to polish the vacuum, or at least parts of it.
scudo
Awesome - you just scored one of the earliest Traditions out there with the locking headlight cap and the speed switch inside of it (if it's not been replaced already like most of them had over the years)! I know this would also have the metal fan instead of the plastic one.
Here is my 1979 Tradition... unfortunately, this one is missing the lock button (I have a never-used one, but still boxed) and I've also yet to find the original speed switch that goes inside the cap.
~Ben[this post was last edited: 11/17/2018-14:55]
Awesome - you just scored one of the earliest Traditions out there with the locking headlight cap and the speed switch inside of it (if it's not been replaced already like most of them had over the years)! I know this would also have the metal fan instead of the plastic one.
Here is my 1979 Tradition... unfortunately, this one is missing the lock button (I have a never-used one, but still boxed) and I've also yet to find the original speed switch that goes inside the cap.
~Ben[this post was last edited: 11/17/2018-14:55]
Yes nice machines. I see this one also has the jigsaw and can be used as a drill, not that I will use them but nice to have. I just checked and it does indeed have the metal fan.
What are those comb looking things for? Any idea.
What are those comb looking things for? Any idea.
rivstg1
Well-known member
Scudo
That comb is the Shag Rug accessory to be put on the front of the power nozzle, intended to 'comb' long fiber carpet ( aka 'Shag' carpeting that was quite invouge in the 1970's/80's). Shag King is the name Kirby gave it.
Nice score you got there, especially for the money! Seemingly all the options for the Kirby!
That comb is the Shag Rug accessory to be put on the front of the power nozzle, intended to 'comb' long fiber carpet ( aka 'Shag' carpeting that was quite invouge in the 1970's/80's). Shag King is the name Kirby gave it.
Nice score you got there, especially for the money! Seemingly all the options for the Kirby!
kirbyklekter
Well-known member
In the second photo
can you tell me what is attached to the exhaust blower? I've never seen that before. Did the owners manual come with this. You really scored on this, can't wait to see it all shined up, congrats!
can you tell me what is attached to the exhaust blower? I've never seen that before. Did the owners manual come with this. You really scored on this, can't wait to see it all shined up, congrats!
scudo
In the 2nd picture, I see a dirt meter (the tool that Kirby salesmen use when demonstrating the machine) attached to where the bag would go, and I also see some spare belts on it.
The Tradition was the first Kirby with a disposable bag system, and it was indeed not perfect at all the first time around: the size of the fill tube was so-so.
~Ben
In the 2nd picture, I see a dirt meter (the tool that Kirby salesmen use when demonstrating the machine) attached to where the bag would go, and I also see some spare belts on it.
The Tradition was the first Kirby with a disposable bag system, and it was indeed not perfect at all the first time around: the size of the fill tube was so-so.
~Ben
It looks like some kind of filter, it is hinged, it reminds of the type of filter Kirby put on when they are demonstrating to potential buyer to show the `muck` that comes out of the carpet. It has a perspex top and a paper towel on the bottom.
scudo
Here's the original speed switch inside the headlight cap (picture 1). I think yours had it replaced with the speed switch mounted on the fan case (pictures 2-3). If it had been indeed, then, initially it also would have had a blue plastic cover placed over it (see pictures 4-5), which had been removed by many owners.
Both of these speed switch types (the headlight mounted speed switch, and later the plastic cover over the fan case speed switch) were to keep it from getting dirt and moisture inside of it (especially when the Rug Renovator was being used).
~Ben
Here's the original speed switch inside the headlight cap (picture 1). I think yours had it replaced with the speed switch mounted on the fan case (pictures 2-3). If it had been indeed, then, initially it also would have had a blue plastic cover placed over it (see pictures 4-5), which had been removed by many owners.
Both of these speed switch types (the headlight mounted speed switch, and later the plastic cover over the fan case speed switch) were to keep it from getting dirt and moisture inside of it (especially when the Rug Renovator was being used).
~Ben
scudo
So not only was the original speed switch (on the light cap) replaced, but so too had the metal fan! I can see those 11 blades for sure. I wonder just how still good that gray plastic fan is (because I've read that, being the first such kind, it did not stand up to hard abuse as well as the current cream Amodel plastic fan)?
~Ben
So not only was the original speed switch (on the light cap) replaced, but so too had the metal fan! I can see those 11 blades for sure. I wonder just how still good that gray plastic fan is (because I've read that, being the first such kind, it did not stand up to hard abuse as well as the current cream Amodel plastic fan)?
~Ben
When I had a quick look earlier I thought the fan blade was metal, you are correct though I have gone back and checked and yes it is plastic.
I have the chance of another (similar price) although the motor apparently doesnt work, I am swaying whether to chance it and buy, then take the best of both and sell the spares on ebay or somewhere.
I have the chance of another (similar price) although the motor apparently doesnt work, I am swaying whether to chance it and buy, then take the best of both and sell the spares on ebay or somewhere.
vacuumdevil
Well-known member
The handy Butler in the Kirby jigsaw attachment . Things I want.
texaskirbyguy
Well-known member
That was a STEAL at that price; the filter unit that was used in home demos is worth that price alone!
Great score on the attachments as well, especially the Handi Butler set and jigsaw.
That grey plastic fan is a lexan or nylon composite that is notorious for deteriorating through age and stress cracks developing whether it is used or not. If the cracks are there, then it could grenade at any time when it is running, scaring the crap out of you if it happens.
I would replace it with the newer cream-colored amodal plastic fan before using it for regular service.
This would be a good time to do a complete restoration on it, as well!
Below is a link to the resto of my Tradition; hopefully it can help you with yours if you go that route....
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?33957_31
Great score on the attachments as well, especially the Handi Butler set and jigsaw.
That grey plastic fan is a lexan or nylon composite that is notorious for deteriorating through age and stress cracks developing whether it is used or not. If the cracks are there, then it could grenade at any time when it is running, scaring the crap out of you if it happens.
I would replace it with the newer cream-colored amodal plastic fan before using it for regular service.
This would be a good time to do a complete restoration on it, as well!
Below is a link to the resto of my Tradition; hopefully it can help you with yours if you go that route....
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?33957_31
Thanks for the link every bit of info helps.
I shouldn't have too much problem as I have tidied up a couple of G versions, one was my wife's original (G5) that had been battered about and borrowed to others since new, it also had the emptor shoe bottom part coming off I done a horrible job on that about 10 years ago so carefully prised it apart, cleaned it and used plastic weld to sort it, looks good now. I gave it a good internal clean and polished the cases.
Not quite showroom but not far off it.
Only other things in all those years were a new brush and a couple of belts. I had a `ticking` noise coming from the back end but that was a dry bearing in the drive selector unit that a bit of grease sorted.
I shouldn't have too much problem as I have tidied up a couple of G versions, one was my wife's original (G5) that had been battered about and borrowed to others since new, it also had the emptor shoe bottom part coming off I done a horrible job on that about 10 years ago so carefully prised it apart, cleaned it and used plastic weld to sort it, looks good now. I gave it a good internal clean and polished the cases.
Not quite showroom but not far off it.
Only other things in all those years were a new brush and a couple of belts. I had a `ticking` noise coming from the back end but that was a dry bearing in the drive selector unit that a bit of grease sorted.
scudo
I would think so, regarding the hinge pin.
Rob (texaskirbyguy) has another thread about disassembling his Tradition:
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?34091
(going to picture 8 in the 1st reply to this thread, you'll see how he got the hinge pin removed from his Tradition's light cap)
~Ben
I would think so, regarding the hinge pin.
Rob (texaskirbyguy) has another thread about disassembling his Tradition:
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?34091
(going to picture 8 in the 1st reply to this thread, you'll see how he got the hinge pin removed from his Tradition's light cap)
~Ben
rowdy141
Well-known member
I have a spare Tradition (all working, tools, caddy, handi-butler, polisher, shampooer...)
If you want any bits, just let me know.
If you want any bits, just let me know.
Rowdy141:
I think I am going to be ok for parts, only thing is the flexi hose inside the bag but I am going to try and repair that, everything else so far looks ok.
In previous post by Kirbyclassis111 I have decided to give up on removing the hinge pin as I reckon I am getting close to breaking the shoulder so don't want to inflict damage.
I have made a start on polishing some of the housing, I would like to get it a stage further but thinking I may need buffer wheels for the bench grinder, currently using buffer wheels on electric drill but lacking power I reckon.
Images are progress to date.
I think I am going to be ok for parts, only thing is the flexi hose inside the bag but I am going to try and repair that, everything else so far looks ok.
In previous post by Kirbyclassis111 I have decided to give up on removing the hinge pin as I reckon I am getting close to breaking the shoulder so don't want to inflict damage.
I have made a start on polishing some of the housing, I would like to get it a stage further but thinking I may need buffer wheels for the bench grinder, currently using buffer wheels on electric drill but lacking power I reckon.
Images are progress to date.
rowdy141
Well-known member
Has anyone tried using their Kirby Handi-butler polishing attachment on their Kirby housing?
Easier with a second machine, but it may do the job on the Brushroll Head & Handle.
At least you'll learn which wheels/products give best results.
Easier with a second machine, but it may do the job on the Brushroll Head & Handle.
At least you'll learn which wheels/products give best results.
...."Has anyone tried using their Kirby Handi-butler polishing attachment on their Kirby housing?"........
I doubt if there is enough power for serious polishing, maybe for a quick clean up. I have a set of three mops + 3 polishes for electric drill and I reckon I need more power, My final polish I use autosol on the soft mop.
While I am posting I will be looking for the this piece or how best to repair, there is a `tab` broken off to enable the handle to be spring loaded. I was thinking a spot of weld and then file to size but I believe the actual part with the tab is aluminium which may make welding an issue. Other option maybe to make a `T` piece that fits in where the handle slots in and the down part of the `T` fits in to the slot to keep the spring loaded.....Any ideas?
I doubt if there is enough power for serious polishing, maybe for a quick clean up. I have a set of three mops + 3 polishes for electric drill and I reckon I need more power, My final polish I use autosol on the soft mop.
While I am posting I will be looking for the this piece or how best to repair, there is a `tab` broken off to enable the handle to be spring loaded. I was thinking a spot of weld and then file to size but I believe the actual part with the tab is aluminium which may make welding an issue. Other option maybe to make a `T` piece that fits in where the handle slots in and the down part of the `T` fits in to the slot to keep the spring loaded.....Any ideas?
craig_1982
Well-known member
Scudo, Excellent purchase and it's looking fantastic so far on the restoration work, As for the Handle Spring Yoke you're probably going have to purchase a new yoke, I've had plenty of these break in the past and I've tried to bodge them up myself but they always fail soon after with it being such a under loaded part, Also I would advise getting the spring winding tool because without that tool this job is very awkward and hard to do because you have to wind the spring bushing up and whilst under tension at the same time try to lock the yoke clip (bit thats broke off on yours) into the corresponding middle slot on the bushing to lock it, If you are pretty savvy you could fabricate your own tool,
Regards Craig.
Regards Craig.
Craig, I watched a video on utube showing `the easy way` to load the spring without a toll, seems simple but time will tell.
In the short term I will probably try and botch the tab repair until I can source the part.
Image of intended botch the blue part will be some sort of insert.
In the short term I will probably try and botch the tab repair until I can source the part.
Image of intended botch the blue part will be some sort of insert.
craig_1982
Well-known member
Yeah that's pretty much the same way I used to do it before I purchased the tool, he does though make it look very easy in that video by only adding a small amount of tension on it, Also I've found by anchoring the motor shell helps too so it's not moving about whilst you do this, I usually just screw it down to me worktop using the bottom screw hole. Your'e idea seems good even if you don't add the full tension on the spring it might just stop the handle flying back at you.
rivstg1
Well-known member
Absolutely
All my machines are polished by hand and old & newer Handi-Butler's. Mine look good, do want a dedicated buffer (3/4-1hp version). Look a my thread ( converting ds50 to HEPA)
All my machines are polished by hand and old & newer Handi-Butler's. Mine look good, do want a dedicated buffer (3/4-1hp version). Look a my thread ( converting ds50 to HEPA)
rowdy141
Well-known member
That's the sort of help I'm offering. That's why I was asking.
I can send you that part. Message me, and I'll remove it from my 'parts' Kirby.
Welding, gluing, fabrication, may work in the short-term, but it will take quite a strain in use.
I'm in the UK, offering to post it to you for free. You could buy another machine, locally via Gumtree (that's how I acquired 5), but why do that? I have the part, jiffy-bag, and stamps.
I can send you that part. Message me, and I'll remove it from my 'parts' Kirby.
Welding, gluing, fabrication, may work in the short-term, but it will take quite a strain in use.
I'm in the UK, offering to post it to you for free. You could buy another machine, locally via Gumtree (that's how I acquired 5), but why do that? I have the part, jiffy-bag, and stamps.
rowdy141
Well-known member
A tip that I'd like to share is for renovating the Blue Trim on the Tradition Brushroll Head.
You don't need to remove the trim, but most people tend to when polishing the Head.
Use a hot cloth or hairdryer to soften the trim before easing it over the rivets.
Warm soapy water, as usual, to remove dirt.
Scratch-Away, Mirror Glaze, or similar car-trim polish to remove years of tiny scratches where it was bashed into table legs.
Kiwi/Punch Blue liquid scuff polish. Scuff polishes have a higher proportion of pigment than regular waxes. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Punch-Shoe-Shine-Liquid-Polish/dp/B0078EJHI2 (Kiwi discontinued the Blue liquid a couple of years ago). This gives the Trim a renewed, even colour, and shine.
You don't need to remove the trim, but most people tend to when polishing the Head.
Use a hot cloth or hairdryer to soften the trim before easing it over the rivets.
Warm soapy water, as usual, to remove dirt.
Scratch-Away, Mirror Glaze, or similar car-trim polish to remove years of tiny scratches where it was bashed into table legs.
Kiwi/Punch Blue liquid scuff polish. Scuff polishes have a higher proportion of pigment than regular waxes. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Punch-Shoe-Shine-Liquid-Polish/dp/B0078EJHI2 (Kiwi discontinued the Blue liquid a couple of years ago). This gives the Trim a renewed, even colour, and shine.
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