Introduction and a Repair Question

[texaskirbyguy]

The bearing plate is supposed to just come off but usually it is stuck since it is a close fit and rust, corrosion, and dirt holds it tight.
See picture 7 at the top of my 505 resto thread for how I get them off.
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?34158

Some penetrating oil at the motor shaft and bearing can help break a corroded or rusted bond at that point.

Tapping a screwdriver against the plate only will rotate it, breaking it free.

Then getting some small screwdrivers (at least two on opposite sides) in the holes between the shell and bearing plate can help pry it off.
Be gentle enough to not bend the plate...

If all fails, remove the carbon brushes, put the fan back on finger tight and yank out the plate, bearing, and armature as an assembly. Beware the grease washer and spring finger behind the rear bearing - they will stick to the bearing and fall when you are not expecting it...
Then you can work at getting the plate and bearing and armature separated. Just be careful with the armature...

I see date stamps on some fans (mostly later ones like my Omega) but not others. It could be original or an old replacement. The plastic fans have been used as replacements for the past 20 years or so, unless a metal one was in the used-parts bin at a general vac shop.

 

[lotsofkirbys]

Ok, that makes sense...

I hadn't thought about it possibly being a replacement from a shop's parts bin. I thought they started replacing the fans with plastic when the tradition debuted?

I know mine is an earlier 1-CR as it has no holes for the Shag-king, so maybe they started doing the date stamps somewhere around the time of the first revision.

The lettering on the labels is coming off. Should I try to fix it or hope I get lucky on eBay? I'd prefer to keep it original.

After turning it with a screwdriver (and using a lot of penetrating oil!) The bearing plate popped off. The front bearing appears to be riveted in and is absolutely shot. Do I need to buy a new plate? I have no tools to remove rivets.

I'm already writing down a list of parts it will need. I've looked at the diagram Ben posted and my bearing plate doesn't match. Though I have a wonderfully rated Kirby dealer about an hour away from me. If I can't find something online I'll check with him.

Sorry for asking so many different questions! I'm very concerned with causing an issue I could have prevented. I know I'm supposed to learn myself, but I can't afford to break something and have to replace it. I already have a rapidly climbing parts list as it is!

 

[texaskirbyguy]

Glad to hear you got the plate off. Please post some pics of it, both sides to refresh my memory of what they look like. I have run across these, replaced bearings, and never had to drill out rivets. This must have been an early plate as the later ones did not have rivets. I am pretty sure they can be replaced with a non-rivet plate if needed.
Sounds like you need a drill and some bits for your next B-day! (I got mine at 14 or so and still have it...)

BEFORE you order parts online, call your Kirby shop (if they do repairs) just to see what he has. Have your list of parts, too. You never know what he might have lurking around in the back in dusty bins (speaking from experience!) He might even have 25 1CR parts units in the warehouse like my friend did!

No prob on the questions - this is how you learn. Breaking stuff is also how I learned, so if it happens, we fix it and learn from it as well. So far you seem to be doing well. Take lots of pictures so you know how to reassemble it.
I have almost any motor unit part you need, as long as you are not in a hurry for it; just pay for shipping and I will send them when I recover (probably a month or two out).

 

[lesinutah]

If

The bearing plate isn't like the diagram it may be the one built into the metal rear fan housing. If the bearing plate doesn't have screws holding it in then it's built in like just mentioned. There will be two pieces of the motor housing coming down to almost where the carbon brush housing is. Between the two metal pieces if you use a flat head screw driver prying the inner I believe white hard plastic but it may be metal. I know that the bearing plate housing and the housing holding the armature and coil separate from each other.
I hope this makes sense it's hard to describe the pieces correctly. I have an all original classic that I got given to me from the original owners son. If you take pics maybe we can give exact directions.
There are few kirby dealers that can help you. The machine is 50 years old and if they opened a vacuum shop when they were 20 that would make the owner 70. I would call before driving as the closest kirby person near me is Kent oyler who is kirby needs on ebay.
The shag king I don't know if it was on the classic. It could've been on cb1,cb2 and cb3. That's omega, classic 3 and the tradition. I'm not positive but I know it's on all the cb models for sure. If it was on thee cr1 aka classic it would be the later models.
I'm sorry my posts all over the place. I will check my Google drive and see if I have pics I can attach.
Rob nice to see you post and I hope your health is good.
Les

 

[lesinutah]

Edit

Disregard my last post.
I believe if you use a set tool or a socket and tap it the bearing comes off. There is a trick for keeping the bearings in once reinstalled. There not riveted on.
If you go to this link. It has Mike's videos. I'm not sure if he uses a socket but the blind pilot bearing puller isn't the only way to remove the bearings.

https://youtube.com/channel/UCZisZSO5_BKJzxUxjIsslOQ

 

[lotsofkirbys]

Here's the pics/I've think that may be right

@texaskirbyguy. It's still a little dirty, (I took it apart a few minutes ago!). Looking at it closely, I don't believe it's riveted.

@Les. It has an 1/8" "lip" (That's the best I can describe it.) on the motor side of the bearing. That lip appears to be holding it in.

 

[kirbyclassiciii]

lotsofkirbys

Your new front bearing plate will be part no. 116884, and it will also have the new-style front bearing (116073) that is used on models Classic Omega 1CB to the present Avalir II. Also order four (4) 193281 #8 screws to attach new front bearing plate to housing.

~Ben

 

[lesinutah]

Pic

Where the red mark is put a socket and hit the socket. The socket will hit the bearing. You should have a bearing with a lip, metal circular piece and a wax bushing that fits in the metal piece.

 

[lotsofkirbys]

Ok, thank you!

That pic is exactly what I needed! I'll try it tomorrow.

@texaskirbyguy. Thanks for the advice! You've been a great help.

@ben. Looks like I don't need the bearing plate after all. Thanks for the bearing part number though! The screws, strangely enough, weren't rusty...

Y'all have helped me so much, I'll be sure to give updates!

 

[texaskirbyguy]

No problem - glad to help!

Les has you on the right track - set the plate on a 1.25" to 2" pipe or something to allow the bearing to come out the bottom as you tap it out with a socket in the hole contacting the bearing inner race. The pipe is to keep the plate from bending. This is stamped sheet metal so it should tap out easily. My 505 resto thread should have some details on this procedure...

However, before removing bearing, clean out the crud to allow it to come out easier and make sure nothing else is holding it in. Take a close up picture then to aid reassembly, noting the inner race...

Front bearing is Kirby #1160 and rear is #1155. They will cost about $12 each but will last for another 30 years under routine use and make it sound like new for a long time.
Note these bearings have a small protrusion on ONE SIDE of the inner race - they have to go back in the correct way. Here is the reason for taking good pictures along the way.

Looks like you are making good progress! Nothing broke yet, either! )

Les, thanks for the 're-welcoming' and wishes - it has been a rough road for sure. Degenerative joint disease at my age is not for wusses!
Oh - your post way above referring the scuff plate as a 'skid plate' had me laughing. If it were a skid plate (like on a truck) you would have been pushing the vacuum upside down and backwards, lol... ) Looks like spell-UNcheck got you there...

 

[lesinutah]

Glad

To hear your well. My new phone auto corrects what it wants.