Introduction and a Repair Question

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lotsofkirbys

Active member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
29
Location
Oklahoma
Hi, everyone! This is my first post here on Vacuumland, so sorry if this comes across as a little blunt. I have been collecting pretty much as long as I can remember and have been reading the forums for about five years. I finally decided to join after I realized that I had a problem that I couldn't find the answer to...

I am a fifteen year old collector in need of some advice on what to do with a Kirby Classic 1-CR. I bought it about ten years ago at a garage sale from the original owner. It did not come with anything but a split hose, and I am sure that at some point he re-did the original wiring with his own. It is missing the headlight socket, doesn't have the original foot switch, or cord socket. It does run. I have finally decided to restore it but I am not sure if it's a smart idea to do so. I have very limited funds so I cannot always afford new parts. I guess my main question is. Is it smart to take on a project like this? Or should I buy a new Classic or Classic Omega to refurb? I can post pictures if needed.
 
Here are those pictures. The previous owner drilled holes into the body to mount the new switch and cord socket. The cleaner head is severely gouged, he had used it as his shop vacuum for 20 years.

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lotsofkirbys

I have never seen a Classic 1CR or any Kirby in particular modified like that (in picture 6)!

I wish you the best of luck restoring this. This picture shows what the original cord socket and foot switch looked like. Basically, Kirby used the same foot switch module from models Dual Sanitronic 50 and 80 but re-oriented it vertically.

~Ben[this post was last edited: 9/13/2021-15:06]

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Ben

Do you think it could/should be restored? Or do you think I've "bit off more than I can chew"? I don't know Kirby part numbers, so I have no idea what It would need (other than the switch) or if I can even get them still...

Thank you all for the welcome!
 
It's not hopeless...

What's been done to that machine gives a whole new dimension to the concept of a 'frankenkirby' but I don't see why it couldn't be restored closer to original. The most cost effective way to source the parts will likely be to buy another machine that also needs some work and use parts from both to make one good one out of the two. Lots of parts are available online but they ain't exactly cheap. I had to buy a foot switch for a Legend II a couple of years ago and it cost me a little over $20 for a new one. That's probably why the previous owner did what he did. By comparison, in the past couple of months, I bought a complete Classic III with a hose and a few tools from Shopgoodwill.com for $28 shipped and picked up a G3 that was in dire need of some TLC (and a new brush roll) from a local Goodwill store for $10. Thrift shops can be very hit-or-miss but sometimes you do get lucky.
 
lotsofkirbys

Yes, I do believe you can restore this.

Here's the official parts breakdown and list for this machine from a 1974 Kirby service manual.

And as Edgar (human) suggested, you can also buy another non-working Classic 1CR with the parts that you need for yours.

~Ben

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Thank you,

For all of the advice! Human, I have definitely been looking for a parts machine. There's just not very many "for parts" 1CR's out there. Ben, thank you for the diagram, and more specifically the part numbers! The only other problem is that I think the fan is threadlockered on...
I wish I had something to give for the hospitality!
 
I know for a fact I have 2 parted out Kirby 1crs sitting in my basement, with every part you need on them. Post some more pics of the rest of the machine, and I'll see what I can dig out next week.
Welcome!
 
If

You look up kirby motor units on ebay. Caroljean on ebay in Oregon usually has parts machines. Your going to want a whole motor unit because with the setup on the cr1 it has no skid plate. If you keep the outer motor shell it the screw holes would look bad. Being he wired a new switch the outer shell on the motor unit is needed. The oxidation on the nozzle can be sanded down and polished.
Just know the ds80, classic 1 and classic omega models are not similar to other kirby models. Basically in laymen terms take pics, use diagrams pay attention to parts.
I have no doubt you can do it and you will learn alot doing so.
 
Question/Here you go

Here it is put back together.

@ben. Is there a way to alert him to this thread or do I just have to hope he sees it?

@hoover300. Here are those pictures you wanted. The picture of the coin case is an attempt to show that it's cracked.

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I have the coin case, a rear housing, an original handle grip, and a switch assembly. If you can wait about a week, I'll gladly sell them to you.
 
Les

I'm not aiming this directly at you, I just thought I should clear some things up.

I've restored other vacuums before, and I have taken apart my entire collection. I've never had a project this big. This Kirby has always frightened me because I honestly didn't really know all of what the guy had done, or what to do about it. I am also very familiar with Kirby models and differences between them. It's just the parts I'm not sure about.

What did you mean by "skid plate"?

Thank you for the attached thread! Very helpful!

How would you go about getting the gouges out of the cleaner head?

@hoover300. Thank you! Can I email you? I take it that you have no headlight socket?
 
Go ahead, my email address is in my profile. I might have a socket, but I am not sure how easy it will be to take apart to wire it to yours.
 
I have a junker 1-CR motor unit. It's been sitting outside for several years, and the motor won't turn on, even though the headlight does. However, it has the original switch. I also have an original handle with the plastic piece you need. If you are interested, please send an email to the address in my profile.
 
Thank you all...

For this amazing welcome! I never expected to get much of a response when I posted on here.

@lesinutah. Oh...that's what you were talking about. Thanks for the pic!

Everyone else! Thank you for all the help! I'll try to pay it back best I can.
 
It's obvious,

You hit the jackpot writing here with your project. Welcome. I want to encourage you to stay the course and not become discouraged if you encounter any snags along the way. The bag looks great from what I can see. As you probably know the 1-CR is the first of the new larger size Kirby's.There are little things about this model that make it unique within the Kirby line.

When I got mine it was in pretty crusty shape. Sitting out in the rain, soaked, by a dumpster there's no way I could turn my back on it. All restored it's been a keeper for 21 years and running great. If you keep it, it will be testament to all the help you received from the many generous members here at Vacuumland. Best to you,Billy
 
Billy

Thanks for the encouragement! Yes the bag is in great shape. Would you recommend washing it? If you would, how would you go about it?
 
First of all, welcome to the forum!

I am a bit late to the party (as usual), but unfortunately work, medical issues, and rehab has been taking up most of my time for the past year or so.

I am happy to see young people working with electro-mechanical stuff like I was at that age (really from age 6 to present!) I was into go-karts, bicycles, and audio equipment back then, as well as fans and other small appliances. You are at an ideal age to learn by doing and we will help you as best we can.
You CAN do this!
Everything looks intimidating when you lack the experience, but as you learn, it becomes almost 'common sense' - if you have the knack, and it sounds like you do... I was intimidated by replacing Kirby bearings until 2017 when I finally just did it. And restored the whole machine since it was all apart. After then I was restoring one vac after another, rapid fire - no major problems. It was fun, too!
I had made a thread with common Kirby specific tips and tricks that might help you out, as well:
https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?34091_7

It looks like you may be set on parts - kudos to all here whom have chipped in to help provide them!
Lots of used parts are available for these models, possibly because I had saturated the members here with 1CR parts units a couple years back, lol... I had brought home a pickup load of them back in 2019 when a friend closed his Kirby repair shop of 40+ years; I could not keep them all due to space constraints.

If you cannot get what you need here, I may have what you are looking for. I know I have the switch mechanism. I have the socket, too, but it can be a bit tedious to wire in depending on how your wiring was modified.

Unfortunately, I will be unreliable as I am scheduled for shoulder surgery next week. I will not be able to dig for parts since most are buried in boxes in inaccessable areas...
I will however be available for online help if you need it. Get my contact email from my profile in the event I am absent here too long.

Enjoy your 1CR - it is an odd-duck for sure. This was the transitioning to wide nozzle and larger motor right before UL double insulated rule came into play and had them redesigning it into the upcoming Omega).
Most of the motor unit parts are unique to this unit, including the motor and large castings. However the bare switches and socket are shared with the D50 and D80. The power switch brackets are unique.

I have a 1CR to restore this fall or spring, depending on my recovery. I will certainly make a thread for it, since it is an unusual machine. I also have a D80 to restore.

Enjoy the adventure of your restoration, and keep us posted!
-Rob Y
 
Ben

Has a diagram of the classic. I'm going solely off memory.
If you remove the safety switch screw you should be able to disconnect the safety switch or if there is an opening near the axle you can leave the safety switch attached and pull wiring. Then above the lever that rotates and holds the top of the nozzle above it to the right and the left arescrewz that need to be taken out.
You then focus on the outer shell ( the pie that goes over the mot I r that the switch and rear wheels connect to. I'm not sure which near the back where the switch and wheels are since yours is modified. Once the shell is removed there is 1 screw that holds the front plate on(the piece you took the screws out first and the safety switch. . There is a few screws holding it in and they need to be removed.
With the outer motor housing and screws off the front and rear motor housing the front of the fan chamber should come off. Leave the carbon brushes in until you remove the fan. There will be a small opening wher you put a screw driver to stop the motor from twisting when you spin the fan to remove it from the top of the armature. Then with the fan off If you remove the 4sma screws holding the bearing plate on. Take the screws off. With the bearing plate off take out the carbon brushes but leave the carbon brush housing. The top of the armature pull the armature out. Leave the coil in and don't mess with the wiring. This should be all you need to do without removing or breaking anything.
 
Thanks for the help!

@texaskirbyguy. The link I attached to this thread was the same one you put up! It's greatly helped me!

@Les. I have the fan off. I found an old thread (2006-ish) that was someone asking how to remove the fan on a D80. Is the bearing plate supposed to just pop off after the screws are removed? I removed all of them but it's pretty rusty...so I'm not sure if it's just stuck and need to just pry it off, or if I need to do another step.

Also. Isn't the fan supposed to have a date stamp/wheel on it? All I can find on mine is 1189 (The Scott Fetzer logo) 14 and three circular indentations right above that. The fan is metal so I would assume it's original right?
 

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