wyaple
Well-known member
I can't seem to get this apart. I don't wanna break anything, so I'm asking for a how to in dis-assembly of the front of the vacuum where the hose plugs in.
Bill
Bill
How to disassemble front of Lux 1401 Olympia
- Thread starter wyaple
- Start date
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bikerray
Well-known member
There are four screws (one at each corner of the metal door) unscrew these then lift from the bottom since you will have to get the cover over the lever that opens the door. The front lid will be attached to the door by two wires that go the bag light. The black lead will go to a terminal block on the side of the hose venturi and the other lead will go to the bag light switch.
Sometimes the front will stick on the metal around the hose connector.
Hope this helps.
Sometimes the front will stick on the metal around the hose connector.
Hope this helps.
Chris Swingler has an article called "Electrolux Diamond Jubilee canister vacuum disassembly".
In it he describes how that comes apart. The article pertains to many of the Super J and up metal canisters.
http://chrisswingler.com/blog/2011/04/electrolux-diamond-jubilee-canister-vacuum-disassembly.html
Pics are from Olympia One before it came apart
In it he describes how that comes apart. The article pertains to many of the Super J and up metal canisters.
http://chrisswingler.com/blog/2011/04/electrolux-diamond-jubilee-canister-vacuum-disassembly.html
Pics are from Olympia One before it came apart
wyaple
Well-known member
Finally got it apart!
Thanks for the pics!
I wanted to disassemble this piece to do two things:
1) Re-lube the cleaning selector thumbwheel and
2) See if I could make the full bag mechanism work.
Goal #1 done! Now it turns without wearing out your thumb.
Goal #2 - not sure how to test this.
I've cleaned all those pesky little tubes, making sure air flows through well and also made sure the little vacuum doo-dad that would trip the latch has good suction.
However, after attempting to simulate a bag full scenario, I have not been able to see the plunger move at all. Any ideas as how to correctly simulate a bag full scenario (without actually having a totally full bag lying around)?
Or, any way to verify that the mechanism is still in working order?
Bill
Thanks for the pics!
I wanted to disassemble this piece to do two things:
1) Re-lube the cleaning selector thumbwheel and
2) See if I could make the full bag mechanism work.
Goal #1 done! Now it turns without wearing out your thumb.
Goal #2 - not sure how to test this.
I've cleaned all those pesky little tubes, making sure air flows through well and also made sure the little vacuum doo-dad that would trip the latch has good suction.
However, after attempting to simulate a bag full scenario, I have not been able to see the plunger move at all. Any ideas as how to correctly simulate a bag full scenario (without actually having a totally full bag lying around)?
Or, any way to verify that the mechanism is still in working order?
Bill
cuffs054
Well-known member
This is a total wag since I know nothing about this! But if you ran the cleaner and then totally blocked the hose end maybe it would think it's full?
bikerray
Well-known member
If you block the end of the hose it won't actuate the valve because it needs to see a vacuum difference.
If you still have the front cover off (and the vacuum is unplugged), just unplug the vacuum line from the side of the hose opening or the back end of the control valve (plug the vacuum back in and turn it on), since the tube no longer carries suction to the back side of the diaphram the suction from the bag chamber will pull the diaphram in and actuate the pin in the valve to allow suction to go to the diaphram that pulls the lever for the latch cover. You should be able to dial back from 6 and have the valve open about 3 or 4.
As a side note when you put the control indicator back on the valve you did align the two witness marks.
If you still have the front cover off (and the vacuum is unplugged), just unplug the vacuum line from the side of the hose opening or the back end of the control valve (plug the vacuum back in and turn it on), since the tube no longer carries suction to the back side of the diaphram the suction from the bag chamber will pull the diaphram in and actuate the pin in the valve to allow suction to go to the diaphram that pulls the lever for the latch cover. You should be able to dial back from 6 and have the valve open about 3 or 4.
As a side note when you put the control indicator back on the valve you did align the two witness marks.
witness marks - bikerary posted a diagram of the Olympia One valve settings that shows the witness marks.
Once you find the witness marks, I suggest marking them with a sharpie so they are easier to see.
On mine I noticed at 6 the valve assembly was all the way out, and at 1 it was seated.
Once you find the witness marks, I suggest marking them with a sharpie so they are easier to see.
On mine I noticed at 6 the valve assembly was all the way out, and at 1 it was seated.
To Test the ejector, completely hook the cover up. Put the selector on 4 and put 2 fingers in the suction port on the vacuum around the 4:30 spot. There will be a rivet. Move your fingers back and forth, and the latch will move. Put the wheel on one and move your fingers in there again. The door should pop open if you do it right
wyaple
Well-known member
That did it!
Great test procedure! Now I know the ejector mechanism still works. Of course, I never really stuff the HEPA bag I use in there to the brim...
Bill
Great test procedure! Now I know the ejector mechanism still works. Of course, I never really stuff the HEPA bag I use in there to the brim...
Bill
Glad to know it worked for you! I do it when ever i buy an elux an i like to show people how it works. Always gets them when the door pops open...
