help!! cleaning a plastic hood

[filterqueen83]

I need to know the best way to polish my new convertible I got tonight. she is gorgeous minus a dull patina lol. I was told to use brasso. I refuse to do anything until I get a few opinions this is a mint vac first one I have ever had.

thanks

 

[riccarlover]

i would use either sos pad or a good spray cleaner with a good tooth brush. get all the tough spots. i usually use the sos on my grams riccar and it does a nice job.
Clayton

 

[crevicetool]

I would consider trying the steel wool

pad on an area that does not show first. You might find that it will scratch the plastic. If is in real good shape, I have good results with Maas polish or Flitz, and some elbow grease.

 

[aeoliandave]

I'm not clear on what material you want to clean and polish, Matt.

For rubber & vinyl bumpers and plastic bodies I always first give it a good going over with Mr Clean Magic Eraser; get'em cheap at the dollar store. To get the plastic to shine like new I use Mothers Billet Polish for aluminum - cleans off the crap the Eraser misses without abrasives. It leaves an ingredient on the surface that buffs up like a good wax (not silicone) as you wipe it down. Does a shine job on rubber trim, too.

I wouldn't go near plastic with steel wool, no matter how fine.

Brasso is good too but dries to a white powder on the crevicetool...um, I mean in the seams and details.

Pardon, I typoed a funny and couldn't stop myself, Rick.
Dave.

 

[filterqueen83]

ok thanks

awesome I am looking to get the plastic shiny again. on the hood the rest is almost perfect this will be my first attempt at buffing plastic,

 

[kirbyboy1]

try just plain armor all. It works great. When I rebuilt my filter queen. I just filled a pie pan and just soak them in it. I hope this helps. It helps make it good and shiny agian.

 

[louvac]

I would recommend a layered approach.

First I would use ordinary dishwashing liquid in WARM water to remove heavy soil and dirt. Then, dry it and analyze it to see how much wear and tear is left. Use "Fantastic" spray cleaner, or Simple Green (which is very gentle-I like this one) to get heavier dirt/scuff marks off and then try a little rubbing alcohol to get paint (usually white paint from being grazed against woodwork and door jams). Wash again in warm water again with mild dishwashing liquid and dry.

You can use a varity of things finally to polish and buff. Lemon Pledge is great, McGuires spray car wax is another good one, and any car wax that contains a cleaner (usually mild) and polish and buff like a car with a soft towel. Do it several times or wait a day or two in between.

Louis

 

[myhooverco]

On Convertible hoods, I wash the hoods first in detergent or spray them down (if they are not too dirty) with windex. Then a nice quick coat of Brasso. I never let the Brasso dry but remove it while it is still wet. I usually repeat the Brasso several times until the desired shine is found. The Brasso will get into some deeper crevices can be difficult to remove so be careful. Never use it on the decals as Brasso will remove any writing on the hood like "Low" or "Shag". I used to polish them with an oil to make them shiny (like WD 40 or Amorall) but found that the dirt recollected on the hood again. I do not use the steel wool since it is really hard to polish out the scratches with the Brasso. You really have to use elbow grease to get those kinds of scratches out. If you have a lot of white paint, try some "Goof Off" in a small amount on a dry cloth. It will loosen it and allow the Brasso to work better.

Louis...I have to say that I really like the Simple Green stuff. It is great on the Convertible bumpers and the smell is not so "industrial" like "Goof Off".

This is just what I do on these machines. It is not for everyone. However, I have done many, many Convertible hoods and have been through lots of Brasso. It does work and it will not ruin the hood which are sometimes hard to find. Best of luck on your restoration.

--Tom

 

[vintageroyal611]

Hey Tom I was wodering if you had a convertible metal base and working motor.

 

[filterqueen83]

so brasso is ok

I am going to try it tomorrow thanks so much.

 

[danemodsandy]

Brasso!

Whoever told you to use Brasso was correct- it's a great plastic polish. In fact, I think it works better than Novus, which is a very expensive, HTF plastic polish made for the job. Brasso also has the advantage of being available in every hardware store and most grocery stores.

I would add one thing to what Tom has said here. If you want a really nice final shine, as well as some anti-static protection, Favor High Shine furniture polish works really well. It's next to the Pledge in the furniture polish section of the grocer's. When using Favor High Shine, be sure to buff well with a very soft cloth, to remove all excess.

I use Brasso on the headlight lenses of my Volvo 240- these plastic lenses have a tendency to yellow and cloud up. Replacements cost a fortune. With Brasso, my lenses look new, on the cheap.

 

[filterqueen83]

full shot

the whole thing anyone know what year from looks I do not have glasses right now so cant get the serial number.

 

[gottahaveahoove]

great ideas,

I also use Bonami. It doesn't scratch anything. I need to get mine shining, so I can post pics. John

 

[aeoliandave]

That's a lovely cheerful 'Ipana Toothpaste' blue and has that barely used look. Luv the Chrysler Building poster, too.

Dave

 

[louvac]

Bon Ami is indeed another great product and yes, "it hasn't scratched yet".

Tom, Windex does do a great job with the "final touch up" before polishing!

And listen to Tom and me! Be careful near decals! Anything that contains petroleum distillates will almost instantly & severly fade if not virtually remove the decal off the face of the machine right before your very eyes! This also has happened to me on a Sunbeam MixMaster model 11 or 12...where the red Sunbeam logo is now a pinkish hue. Damnit!

And, never, never, never, use even the finest of steel wool (0000) dry to clean a Hoover or any other "powder-coated" painted handle. It will work like an eraser and remove the paint down to the metal fairly effortlessly!

Louis

 

[aeoliandave]

I'll echo that, Tom and Lou. The finest of steel wool is only for bare unpainted metal, for clearing away any surface corrosion, scratch removal and polishing to a mirror finish. Same goes for those synthetic scouring pads often backed with a sponge. No abrasives on paint, please.

Yeah, I once mistakenly wiped Brasso I'd been using on the aluminum body across my Premier upright's belt access medallion. Within seconds the red lettering was smeared & ruined beyond recovery . :-(

Dave

 

[filterqueen83]

thanks

I appreciate all the help. I found it on ebay for a buy it now of 10 dollars it had just been posted it was a nice asian ladies in texas it is almost in perfect shape.

 

[louvac]

Matt.....

I could be wrong but that bag is not correct either. I have this model and will take a pic and post it for you to see. This is one pretty machine and I love mine! What in fact, is the actual model number?

Louis

 

[filterqueen83]

model

u04423 I do not think it is right either. It must have been from a collector too there are alot of details like painting and other things a normal person would not do.