Elux Lx Ejector Fix

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Ah, the ejector issue...

Does anyone's actually work still?...
I'm currently servicing the bag ejector system on my own LX. There's a "Rube Goldberg" system that works the automatic eject located under the metal cover on the inside of the bag compartment door.

Hoses clog or deteriorate... things rust...

The "ejector catch pin" on my LX was seized up within its housing because of galvanic corrosion! Also, one spring completely disintegrated from rust.

Check out this link for a how-to (it really starts with reply #13).

It basically consists of making sure the system is unclogged, leak-free, and all the parts move freely.
Good luck, I think it's worth the effort to rebuild!

http://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?3090
 
Mine works perfectly.

The real problem is those clear hoses get stiff and break , I replaced them with automotive vacuum hose."Like operates the heater and ac systems ."
 
I have 3 Model LX and 1 Model LXI and they all work just fine.
They all eject just like they should.

I also salvaged the ejector system (the one without the control knob) from an early Electrorust (the rest of the unit was trashed) that I got from an Electrolux dealer.
 
I've never worked on anything older than a 1205 but when I got my Super J, the bag ejector lockout switch had shorted out and melted so that the machine always thought it had a full bag. It took several hours of looking online—and it really helped when somebody on this site gave me the proper name for the part—to find a replacement.
 
Can you see the two points where the line is supposed to connect? Just get a piece of the proper diameter silicone vacuum line from an auto parts store and replace it.
 
Here's what the inside of the early Model 60 looks like. The first picture is just as the front end comes off the unit, the second is a side shot (if you notice the little lever to the side, thats what the basement/attic key clamps on to), the third is with some of the stuff out of the way and the forth is of the front opening as to how the hose connects.

If all the pieces are still there and just disabled it shouldn't be a problem. If however the control valve, diaphram or some of the levers and springs are missing then you will have to find a scrap unit to get the parts off of.

As a side note the clear plastic tubing is still used, just go to Petsmart and go where the fish are. The tubing is used for air into the tank from the pump.

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Ok, reassembling the control valve;
1st pic shows where the diaphram of the control valve
2nd pic shows the different parts
3rd pic shows the diaphram in the base with the metal disk in the diaphram
4th pic shows the body of the control valve as well as the early pressure pin
5th pic shows the pin seated in the body of the valve
6th pic shows the top of the control valve from the underside to show where the spring goes
7th pic shows the body and top screwed together
8th pic shows the body and top screwed together from the underside showing the pin

From there you just place the body of the valve with the pin down on top of the diaphram in the base and screw it down with the 2 screws so it looks like photo 1 or 3 of reply #11

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So the Ejector worked without attaching the line. Im going to put it on, but i still havnt gotton to petSmart. If its as sensitive as it is now (no adjuster dial) can I adjust the sensitivity in the black plastic shroud (BikerRay's 7th picture) by turning the screw?
Thanks!

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Before you adjust anything replace the tube between the hose connector and the bottom of the control valve. Once you do that you may notice that it isn't as sensitive as it is now. Once you have vacuum on both sides of the control valve diaphram it should function normally.
 
Confused

In Reply #13, Where is the large spring that goes on top of the disk in photo 3? I have a spring there. Would appreciate if someone can tell me how this works.
 

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