Electrolux Special Edition 1623

[paul]

Thanks again, Bill & Kevin.

I ordered the Kirby bearing puller today so will have to wait till it arrives. I appreciate the rivet & washer photos, which will help me with my purchase.

Another question ... what do you use to clean the bearings before repacking them?

I'll keep you posted when I get the stuff and get going on the project.

 

[paul]

Btw, an Aerus rep looked up the serial number on the company's database and told me that the original sale was in December 1991.

 

[quebecois]

The SuperJ I cleaned and fixed had two small bolts and nuts instead of rivets to hold the bearing bracket, was it normal ?

 

[eurekastar]

That motor uses sealed bearings, so you'll just need to replace them. If they are open bearings, I always clean them in gasoline before repacking them with grease. In the link below, you'll find the bearing you need. It looks like they are currently out-of-stock. You get it on Ebay, but it is much more expensive.

@ François, the bearing retainers were originally riveted; however, someone replaced the bearings and used nuts and screws rather than rivets to reattach the retainers.



http://www.hescoinc.com/eureka-bearings-8mm-c2094-sc881-5pk-530885

 

[eurekastar]

This is the same bearing.

http://https//www.ebay.com/itm/Eure...605491&hash=item2395b9f511:g:DY0AAOSwNchaOrgq

 

[paul]

Oh, I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info. and links, Bill.

 

[quebecois]

Thanks for the info, Bill !

 

[paul]

Help needed ... I was able to remove the first fan stage but am stuck on the second.

 

[eurekastar]

Penetrating Oil

Spray some penetrating oil like WD40 around the spacer and fan spindle. I'd also spray some down at the bottom around the washer. Then, just wait. Give it a try in the morning. If it doesn't give, spray from oil onto it. It may take two or three days. Patience is the key. Be sure to set it upright so that the oil can seep down.

 

[eurekastar]

You might go ahead and remove the motor bridge so you can remove the motor field. Then you can grab the armature with your hand for back up, while working the spacer with pliers.

 

[quebecois]

For a very good penetrating fluid, you could try mixing automatic transmission fluid and acetone 50%-50%. Its smells strong but it is by far better than WD-40 for loosening metal parts. I've used it with very good success in many occasions. YOu should store the mix in a glass container with a tight cap, acetone will melt plastics.

 

[paul]

Thanks, Bill & Francois. I really appreciate it.

The fan casing was pretty rusted, so I'm thinking the cleaner may have been stored in a basement. Anyway, I kinda chewed it up trying to open it after spraying it with WD-40 yesterday; maybe I should have waited on that one, too.

 

[paul]

I'm also not having success removing the brushes by pulling on the tabs with the pliers. Please advise.

 

[real1shep]

 


WD-40 is not penetrating oil and anyone who uses it as such is suspect in my book. It is purely a cheap water displacement formula originally intended to spray inside engine distributors that were wet with moisture. It's not a lubricant either of any worth.


 


Kroil is a first rate rust penetrant, then Liquid Wrench followed by PB Plaster which is available most anywhere. You could also mix your own like  François indicated.


 


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Kevin

 

[paul]

Thanks, Kevin.

Since I had the WD-40 on hand I used that so will wait to see if it works like it did on the fan casing. If not, I'll try one of yours or Francois's recommendations.

 

[eurekastar]

Were you able to get the fan removed?

 

[paul]

No, I wasn't able to get the fan off. I haven't had the time to work on it lately but hopefully will be able to this weekend.

Thanks for asking. I'll keep you posted.

 

[paul]

I'm in a quandary. I was unable to remove the motor bridge after removing the two bolts nor could I get the motor brushes out, so I took the motor to an Aerus dealer to get some in-person advice.

As he looked it over he reasoned that it overheated while running for an extended time due to the black film on the commutator, the overheating residue in the second fan stage, and the inability of the motor bridge to pop right off (he surmised that it had melted onto the magnets). He also mentioned that the motor brushes were not meant to be removed, because of thermal protectors; which is why I couldn't get them out.

He mentioned that he could replace the motor for me for something like $449.00, or sell me a motor for around $385.00 that I could install myself. Ouch. No thanks.

Do you think I should still try to remove the motor bridge and resume my project? I'm toying with the idea of squirting some Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil on it but don't want to mess with it if it truly is a lost cause.

Here's the alphanumeric code and ratings on the fan casing, if that tells you anything: B-9 ECP 6500-253 10:39 68Hz BJ 20 120VAC SERV

What to do?

 

[eurekastar]

You might just scrap the motor and buy an aftermarket motor for about $80. They aren't genuine Electrolux but they are the Electrolux specifications. I'm not sure who makes them.

http://https//www.ebay.com/itm/Moto...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[blknblu]

The ebay link is for an Electro Motor 6500-293.
You can google it to find a cheaper price.

Specs can be found here:
http://electromtr.com/through-flow-motors.htm

About the company:

"Our History:

Electro Motor purchased the motor business from Aerus, LLC (formerly known as Electrolux, LLC), and took operations on July 1, 2002. This former Electrolux motor business has built high quality floor care motors for over 60 years. This tradition of motor design and excellence with an emphasis on durability, quality, and exceptional customer support continues with the new Electro Motor ownership."

http://electromtr.com/about.htm