Electrolux Silverado and Silverado Deluxe

[camelotshadow]

Oh the 2100 was built in USA as was the power nozzle & its a PN-6B...Manual has a date of 89 so it has to be least 89.
I must have gotten it when it was about 8 yrs old!
quite a find

 

[briankirbyclass]

I know an OLD OLD Lux salesman, who sold for over 45 years, told me once that ANY Electrolux that is "Deluxe" or is sold as "Deluxe" just means "With Powernozzle".

Hmmmm, interesting.

 

[lux1521]

I'd say your 2100 is a good one. The Silverado I can't tell without taking a look at the insides. The Olympia should be about as reliable and serviceable as they get.

With a good amount of care any of them should last. It's just that the models after 1987 and before 1983 (early Silverado and Olympia) seem to hold up to abuse better. By abuse I mean poor quality bags, damp storage and stuff like that.

And on the whole Deluxe/PN thing, I don't even know if they sold machines in the 1980s without PNs. I thought they were standard by then. I think I have seen plain Silverados with older PN-4a power nozzles. I might have to take a poll of cleaners on ebay and see how they are labled and how they are equiped and see if I can figure it out.

 

[camelotshadow]

So that would throw id'ing the early & later silverados by the deluxe label out the window... back to the drawing board
& it all seems futile when even serial numbers don't tell the whole truth

 

[lux1521]

"back to the drawing board"

Yep. I think so.

 

[camelotshadow]

The olympia hose is bad but it sucks pretty good at the neck still the silverado sucks a tad stronger at the neck. The 2100 sucks about the same. My thought are the silverado sucks a tad stronger than them all, thats why I was leaning toward keeping it. Also the olympia make a moaning noise when you shut it down. don't know what it means but probably not good. It's like its going aarhhhh don't shut me down yet...LOL

I've been trying to figure out the silverado PN thing myself
thats why I got myself into the double silverado saga but I always say things happen for a reason & if anything you learn from it.

My electrolux metal cannisters are from CA. I 'd say the new silverado is from Michigan...oh boy but it looked pristine in the pix....Guess soon we will have to look for CA vacuums....
driven only on sunday by the lil ole lady from Pasadena!

LOL

 

[lux1521]

Don't worry about the Olympia making a bit of noise. My Super J still does it even after I put new bearings in it. I'd imagine the fans are a bit dirty and have put the motor off balance slightly. If it makes strange noises when at full speed or squeals at any time, then I might get worried.

The rumble seems to be a Lux characteristic. Not part of the design, and not really a good thing, but it seems like most have it by now, and run with it just fine.

 

[camelotshadow]

I think I am going to open it up & clean it.
It's true when the blades get covered w soot its not good but usually the soot is distributed equally. I like making them better. I think they deserve it after years of faithful sevice.
Thanks so much for all the great advice///I & my electroluxes both thank you for your invaluable insight!

 

[lux1521]

If you need any motor rebuild advice or help, just ask! The Olympia/Super J motor along with many pre 1983 lux motors are very easy to work on as long as its not rusted together. If this is your first time rebuilding a motor then it should be a good starting point.

 

[camelotshadow]

Thanks, that is very nice of you!
Never rebuilt a motor but I think I can do anything I set my mind too. Thank you so much but my Benz is missing me. I spent weeks under the hood getting it happy. I'm small & thats a problem working on a 83 V8 benz but yeah a electrolux I'm game. So far its just been cleaning related I;ve done. I see the brushes on the royal upright. Never knew what a brush was before. I would like to know what lube is ok. I have some Maytage turbine oil I have used some drops in the Royal upright oil port. I just love the hands on appraoch & don't mind getting a lil dirty for a girl...I'd say who changed the distributor cap & vac hoses on her vintage benz I'd say I'm game!!!

Hey it's late out there...you get some sleep...

Thanks Again!

 

[elux89]

In regards to your 2100, if it's an earlier model, it might have the LF motor, which is not as good as the SJ style. After the LF came the roller bearing to roller bearing that Erick has spoken about. We have a 2100 that has the lf in. On the exhaust plate, there is no ridge to attach the combination tool. I don't know if this is a way to indicate that it's an earlier model and might have the lf style motor in or not.

In regards to lubes, I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 motor oil on the sleeve bearing, for the roller bearing, I'm using either Mobil synthetic grease, or lately Red Line synthetic grease. Using these in my car as well. Will never go back to conventional lubes again, as the synthetic lasts longer and is much much more durable.

Vernon

 

[camelotshadow]

Thanks, The Royal upright said 30W oil & I hunted for it w no luck even the vac store didn;t have it. Good to know oil is oil & guess have to go to an automotive house. I would suppose the synthetic to last longer & perform cleaner.

I just had 20W household oil & decided to try some Maytag turbine oil I have that was made for heavy duty motors. Says Non Pariel I think its good stuff. So does that mean the Royal has sleeve bearings in its motor?

The 2100 is 1989 or after so hope its got the better motor.It's the one without the dark gray on the sides.

Ser # F11477T

 

[lux1521]

There is no need for synthetic oil in a vac motor. It does not have any of the complexities of a car engine. If you get a plain 30w oil with no additives then you should be in great shape.

The Royal has sleeve bearings. Since they are designed to be maintained they are ok. Royal metal uprights are very good as far as reliability is concerned. Basicly the same design they had 50+ years ago with only added power and slightly different shape in a few areas.

When it comes to sleeve bearings its really more to do with how they are implemented. The Super J motor actualy uses a sleeve bearing on one end but is highly reliable, because you can maintain it, restore it, or replace it with little hassle. The Hoover Baby Model 103 in my "Guess what I found" thread in the vintage forum uses sleeve bearings and it's still running after 80 years. Its just a matter of how the bearing type is used.

For reference a good newer lux motor looks something like this:

 

[lux1521]

Ok. In the picture I circled two of the 3 cord winder screws. The other is on the bottom. When the screws are removed you can pry out the cord winder from the metal body. By the way, the model you are looking at in the picture is a Grand Marquise / Legacy / Ultralux.

 

[camelotshadow]

Didn't see those as
there was arubber covering on it so I'll have to get under that. There also is a tube that yours doesn't have
or maybe you removed it I think I see where it went on yours.

Don't want to mess up the cord winder
My that thing is almost as bad as getting in a mercedes engine!

The royal is sleek & simple
I wish mine sucked better
never opened the case but peeked in & could be brushes are down but I am no expert just see about 1/4 inch. Still getting to motor is much easier than the electrolux.

I just want to look not really rebuild
just to clean caked on dust & maybe see how good it is.

Do they repack bearings? guess thats a special grease

I like to work on things & make them better
sort of like a dr for machines....

Thanks!

 

[lux1521]

These days you take your old ball bearings and throw them out and put in some new ones. You can get replacement bearings for as little as $2.

To access the fans on the Olympia the motor must be removed but not fully dissassembled. The hose you have on yours is typicly not included on newer version of the metal canisters. If you compare this design with many newer models it's actualy looks simple.

The Royal was built to be simple. Thats what makes them great. You can actualy check the carbon brushes on the Royal by removing the brush caps on each side of the motor. By the way, what is the amperage rating on your Royal? The 866 sounds like a newer one (80s) and should be fairly aggressive.

 

[camelotshadow]

Wow $2///why not give the ole by new bearings...
BTW it seems to be making more a of shut down whine???

I did unscrew the brush caps there were springs but I dared not mess.
The Royal 866 now I forget the model but think its 886
its 6 Amps & serial number indicates I think a 1988 model
so not that old.

They don't make the carbon brushes for the old Royal anymore

Checked with Hesco as I don't have a oil port cover either but those parts are discontinued

 

[lux1521]

At 6 amps that Royal should have plenty of power. Perhaps you need a new belt for it. Much of the Royal's cleaning ability comes from good brushing of the carpet. The brush roll might need replacing too.


A "shut down whine" is not all that bad. A rumble is from some kind of unbalance or bearings with a fair amount of wear. A whine is usualy carbon brush noise which can't be totaly eliminated. As long as you don't get too much carbon brush clicking during shut down or when it's running then I'd say your ok.

 

[camelotshadow]

Got new belts bought about a dozen of the old royal belts.
I think the bearings in the roller end at least one has some sand.
it doesn't turn well
I tried to get in there & clean it
used some oil but it could be a contributing factor.

I also have to play with the vacorrite screw

I have been setting the head further down & its ok

don't get me wrong it works fine but I am trying to bring back to life 25 yr ole carpet & it just doesn't make it stand up as well as say the Hoover Windtunnel on a clean filter.

I washed the bag & blew oput the dust in the motor so its pretty clean. I do think I;m getting roller bearing noise
but am assessing which of the gang I should get parts for;
Just need to be frugile but truthfully the Royal is a cheapy
just belt & roller no fancy filters

I will try to get into motor housing of olympia if its not too cumbersome. Its a good learning experience.

Thanks for the assistance

 

[camelotshadow]

A new day & recollection

I did open those 3 cord winder screws
2 on top end & one center bottom.

Also removewd top switch plate screws.

I tried to wiggle things open but not knowing where it would or if there were more screws ...anyway it wouldn't budge.

If that was a good point to be I'll have to get there again & get a screw driver in there?
Are you saying that back end pulls out? I was thinking somehow the case should slide off.

I'm afraid opening that won't get me too far.

Is the motor next? & then the fan? would think fan would be closer to the bag...

Hesco doesn't have exploded diagramss for the tanks.

Don't really want to take every piece off just to open it up..it's really built like fort knox...LOL