Electrolux Model G

[real1shep]

I like to clean the sintered bushing first and relube with the blue 3 in 1 product, yes (I also polish the armature shaft with very fine wet/dry sandpaper if it shows any discoloration...wet the paper with the oil).  Sometimes sintered bushing that old style will have a felt wick that's supposed to be wet with oil as a reserve for the future....don't remember offhand on the G. I go inside a lot of small electric motors.


 


A bit later on from that era, sintered bushing were impregnated with lube and they wanted you to just replace them. A lot of controversy there....dry lube, wet lube...some say you'll ruin the sintered bushing if you clean it and relube (the modern ones). Unless you know exactly what lube they used, your added lube could gall up the works.


 


Not something you worry about with a G motor though......just sintered bushing trivia...lol.


 


Some vac motors will have a foam like seal where the motor sits in....1205 comes to mind. Don't freak over finding OEM foam. The weather seal stuff they sell for doors is an excellent, durable replacement.....find the correct width and sponginess type of the original.


 


Kevin

 

[mikeinct]

Model G Power Nozzle

The Model G is working really well now thanks to the advice given here. I'm really pleased with its performance. The problem I have now is the power nozzle isn't spinning. The power nozzle itself is not the problem though, because it works on another vacuum. The hose electrical connections check fine as well. I don't seem to have any power coming from the outlet on the side of the Model G. Can someone please guide me in troubleshooting this? I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere, and am unsure about how much voltage I should be getting.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[vacuumlad1650]

It runs on 120 volts. Very low amperage...two or three I think. I can get pictures of how they are wired.

 

[mikeinct]

Thanks for your help. I think I may have goofed when reassembling everything after servicing the motor. Can you tell me how the four wires should be hooked up to the switch? I really should take pictures as I disassemble. It would make my life so much easier.

 

[fantomfan57]

To quote an expert:

Tom Gasko wrote
"Here's a simple way to remember one speed canister vacuum wiring.

There are two leads from motor. Two from cord. Two from switch. Two from power nozzle receptacle.

Connect in this order:
One cord to One motor and One receptacle

One cord to one switch

One motor to one receptacle to one switch

In the end, there should be three wire nuts holding the eight leads in the above connections. "

This solved my issue.

 

[mikeinct]

Thanks for the advice, Garry, but unfortunately I'm still confused. That method doesn't seem to account for the four wires I have meeting at the switch. Maybe I'm missing something, but I think your method would have three wires at the switch. I don't understand why a simple wiring diagram isn't made available by Electrolux. Nothing can be found online. Frustrating.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[chicagomike]

Consider armature bearing grease - made for electric motors

consider buying armature bearing grease - made for electric motors

http://https//www.mobil.com/en/industrial/lubricants/product-series/mobil-polyrex-em-series

 

[mikeinct]

Thanks for the link regarding the electric motor bearing grease. It's always good to use high quality materials.
Mike

 

[dysonman1]

Wiring a Model G

The Electrolux switch should be wired as follows:

One lead from motor and one from receptacle should be joined together under one gold screw. There are two gold screws, so each should go on through the single motor and single receptacle lead wire. It matters not which one of the two motor and two receptacle leads you use, as long as you only use one each.

 

[fantomfan57]

Ummm,

I thought about my post after I sent it and wondered if my advice was appropriate for this vacuum.

Sorry about that.

 

[mikeinct]

All done. Thank you!

Everything is all done. Thank you to everyone who helped me with this project. Now, I will start working on my Electrolux 1205. Much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[real1shep]

 I like both the G and the 1205, but clearly, the G is built to a higher standard.  Yet its greatest downfall are the crap, spindly wheels. The 1205 at least has durable wheels. Owners have had trouble with the 1205 carry handle though. The later, slightly more powerful G motors went into the 1205's first production run. Not sure if the same motor was used the whole production run of the 1205. The more powerful G motors had different color brush holders.


 


Your G looks great! A suitable pic with that rug and that old vac. You need the green power cord from the PN head up if you want it to be original looking.


 


Kevin

 

[mikeinct]

Thanks, Kevin. I like the way it came out. It's really quiet and powerful. I'm not really crazy about the power nozzle though, as it compares to the PN-4A I also have. It seems to bog down on thicker rugs. I'm wondering if there's a way to raise it up a bit. Regarding my next project I have a choice between the 1205 and a Silverado Deluxe 1501. Which do you think would give me the most bang for the buck? Are they equal in quality?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[human]

Kevin (real1shep) wrote:
Owners have had trouble with the 1205 carry handle though.

I reply:
Yes, one of the first things I noticed about my Super J when I got it was the superior design of the handle. The 1205's handle is very fragile and poorly designed and the replacements are ridiculously expensive. I was lucky to find one for mine on eBay last year for about a quarter of the retail price. Otherwise, I would have just ground down the broken off spot on the original handle so it would be more comfortable to hold. To prevent the handle from breaking, it is best to lift the machine by the smaller cross member instead of the longer part that runs lengthwise. The attachment point on that tail end is woefully inadequate.

 

[real1shep]

<a name="start_34788.376601"></a>Thanks, Kevin. I like the way it came out. It's really quiet and powerful. I'm not really crazy about the power nozzle though, as it compares to the PN-4A I also have. It seems to bog down on thicker rugs. I'm wondering if there's a way to raise it up a bit. Regarding my next project I have a choice between the 1205 and a Silverado Deluxe 1501. Which do you think would give me the most bang for the buck? Are they equal in quality?
Thanks,
Mike


 


Well, the Oly One and the Silverado have the Super J big motor, so lots to be excited about there! But the 1205 was unique because it was the first model to use internal electric for the hose. In fact some early models still had the PN pigtail attached to the side of the vac...then they went fully internal. Lux liked to use up line parts whenever they could....good business and less waste. However, the suction/flow of the 1205 is nothing special as it's basically the later G motor. 


 


I guess it depends if you want historical significance or a bad-ass DD. My Diamond J's with the PN 4 are a force of nature when it comes to actual cleaning. True the PN 1's needed some more evolution with different pile thicknesses. The PN 2 is slightly better in that regard. I have a 50th Anniversary PN 2 that almost got restored...lol. Hard to put a lot of time into those old PN's when I have the PN 4 and Sidekick....lol.


 


For whatever reason, I wound up with a lot of PN 1's.  There are even some slight mechanical differences between an early PN 1 and some of the last ones....I seem to have both...has to do with bearings/brackets for the brush roller as I recall.


 


Kevin


 


 

[this post was last edited: 8/9/2017-23:47]

 

[real1shep]

<a name="start_34788.376604"></a>I reply:
Yes, one of the first things I noticed about my Super J when I got it was the superior design of the handle. The 1205's handle is very fragile and poorly designed and the replacements are ridiculously expensive. I was lucky to find one for mine on eBay last year for about a quarter of the retail price. Otherwise, I would have just ground down the broken off spot on the original handle so it would be more comfortable to hold. To prevent the handle from breaking, it is best to lift the machine by the smaller cross member instead of the longer part that runs lengthwise. The attachment point on that tail end is woefully inadequate.


 


Lux at least into the late 80's, tried to remedy model faults before they launched into a new model. However, that didn't guarantee that the new model didn't have fault points of its own. 


 


Kevin


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