Dryer Troubles

[human]

Small update...

So I dried another load on "sensor dry" and the knob never moved. It just ran until I shut it off after about 45 minutes to find that the clothes were thoroughly dry. I put in my last load for the day and instead used the timed mode (high heat). The knob moves normally in that mode, but it doesn't shut itself off at the end of the cycle. So it begs the question whether it is the timer or one of the sensors I previously replaced. Inquiring minds want to know...

 

[vacuumlad1650]

I would try interchanging one part at a time and seeing if it solves the problem.
Otherwise im sure you can find some troubleshooting literature on line, I tend to have to see the machine in person and go from there to offer advice

 

[human]

That's my plan. Since I have all of the components I took off, I intend to start with the sensor on the exhaust vent. While I'm in there, I'll put the fuses to a continuity test, just to rule them out. It'll be later in the week before I get a chance to do any of that. The end of the semester is upon me and I'll have very little free time until all my grading is done.

 

[madman]

The sensor on the exhaust vent is likely a thermal limit switch. You seem to have two problems. One being the moisture sensor is either not reporting or whatever it hooks up to is not receiving. The second is that the timer apparently cannot move all the way to the off position. But since you know the timer is working to some degree, it's likely just stuck. Assuming it's an old fashioned mechanical timer. It may simply need to be opened and lubricated.

 

[human]

Yes, it's an old fashioned electro-mechanical timer. It moves when it's in one of the timed modes; it just doesn't move all the way to the 'off' position. In the sensor mode, it doesn't move at all. From the online reading I did yesterday, I'm pretty convinced the sensor on the exhaust vent is the most likely culprit but I haven't ruled out the timer as an accomplice. I may tear into it this evening to see what's what. Stay tuned...

 

[human]

Loose wire...

Well, It looks as if I may have just solved the problem. When I took the back off of the dryer, I immediately spotted a disconnected wire. The middle wire (the small orange one) that connects to the sensor on the heating element was hanging loose. I don't know whether I had neglected to connect it during the installation process or it had come loose as I was putting one of the other parts in but the connector did not fit snugly on its terminal. A quick crimp with my trusty Leatherman tool gave it a snugger fit. Once I got the dryer back together, I washed and then dried my sheets on the sensor cycle to prove the repair. The dryer cut itself off automatically and the sheets came out perfectly dry and just slightly above room temperature, thus I'm going to pronounce it fixed (at least until something else breaks on it) and with no need for any further parts.

 

[madman]

Nice!

 

[fantomfan57]

Congratulations, Human

thanks for posting. I liked following your progress because it was very informative. My Maytag Washer (1987) recently had it's timer die. Was just the timer motor, but an Ebay replacement did the trick. I kept the old timer and MAY find a replacement motor. Because these timers are no longer available new.

Bravo!

 

[human]

The fix is holding...

Thanks. In the two and a half months since I started this thread, the dryer has been working perfectly—better than it has ever worked before, in fact. It will now keep pace with the washer and sometimes outpace it. I'm sure it's probably using a bit less energy, too. And it turned out there was nothing wrong with the timer.

 

[speedqueen]

I wish to explain why your dryer had it's second failure due to the disconnected wire.

The lower end Whirlpools use a thermostatic automatic dry cycle, they use the thermal mass of the wet clothes to determine when to shut off. The timer knob only advances when the heater element is off. When you initially start the dryer it takes a very long time for the wet clothes to reach the temp(about 150*F) required by the cycling thermostat to cut off the element, at which time the timer advances for a short time until the evaporative cooling effect from the airflow quickly cools the sensor/thermostat down so the element cycles back on and the timer stops advancing, when the clothes are nearly dry, they stay hot much longer due to the far reduced effect from evaporating water and the thermostat keeps the element off and timer on for longer durations. This advances the timer into the cool down section.

Without feedback from the sensor, the timer couldn't advance forward on the automatic cycle.

 

[human]

Thanks for the explanation. That makes good sense.

 

[human]

I've added to my repertoire of washer/dryer repairs. Yesterday, I replaced the washer lid latch on my friend's GE washer/dryer stack combo.

 

[electrolux137]

~
~

I have a Kenmore/Whirlpool dryer. Last week the belt broke. I ordered one on line and it came today.

I was able to install it without any problems except that it was a chore getting the cover back on and around the drum.

I also took the back off and cleaned out the vent opening and duct. It purrs right along now!