Roper Dryer has stopped working...

[human]

So my Roper by Whirlpool dryer has completely stopped working. It won't power on at all. No hum, no nothing. Yesterday, I went through and tested the thermal fuses and other sensors I had replaced two years ago, along with the start switch and timer, which are original, using an ohm meter. Everything checked out okay. I also checked the breakers. They're very poorly labeled, so I went ahead and reset all of the 220v breakers to make sure, but still no action. I have not checked the power at the outlet with a volt meter because frankly, I'm a little skittish about 220.

The only thing I haven't been able to check is the door switch because I'm not sure how to take the machine apart to access it. The switch is held in place with two screws, accessible from the outside (just inside the door, actually) but the switch goes into place from behind. That said, I do feel and hear a positive 'click' when I push the switch with my finger and it clicks back on its own when I release it. While my inclination is to believe it is good, I'm open to the possibility that I could be wrong. The one thing that doesn't feel quite right to me is the start switch, which doesn't seem to travel as far as it used to, but according to the ohm meter, pushing it in closes the circuit and releasing it opens it back up, so that would seem to be good.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm not inclined to spend a whole lot of money on it because I got it second hand seven or eight years ago and have less than $100 invested in it at this time, including the replacement parts I installed two years ago. If it can't be fixed, I'll start looking for a replacement. I don't particularly want a new one, loaded up with self-destructing circuit boards, so it'll most likely be another second hand unit.

Thanks in advance for your insights.

 

[maytag142c]

Take the 2 screws out from the filter housing, grab hold of the top from the sides, pull forward and up. There is a possibility the timer could have gone but the door switch is also common and can be bypassed if you don’t care about it. Otherwise it can be replaced cheaply.

 

[suckolux]

Yes, mine failed did as you said through the top took 5 minutes ordered the part from Amazon I think it was $5 and was here the next morning. There was one day of it running with no door switch.

 

[panasonicvac]

Human

There is a mechanical dryer that's still being made today and it's a Speed Queen. You can get this commercial home style dryer (Gas or electric) that's designed to last 20-25 years or even longer. Maybe even the rest of your life time! If you would go for a replacement dryer, I'd highly recommend to look around for a secondhand SQ. SQs' are the BEST dryers that I've ever used! Made in America, uses commercial grade parts, they're famously known for their durability and reliability, and they dry fantastic!

 

[madman]

Does it have a light bulb inside? Does it come on when you open the door?

Don't worry about 240 volts. Ground is midway between the two Lines, so even if you got shocked from ground to either Line, it would only be 120 volts. Intentional safety design. Plus, you'll be fine. Just the other day I got zapped from arm to arm. Skin effect ftw.

 

[human]

Door switch is good...

So I found a YouTube video showing how to open the top of the dryer, allowing me to get to the door switch and test it. As I suspected, it works perfectly, and with that knowledge, I'm perplexed as to what is wrong. This is a very basic dryer and does not have any lights. I'm going to dig a little further this weekend and hopefully can come up with some other possibility before I bag it and go shopping for a replacement.

@panasonicvac: Thanks for the Speed Queen recommendation. I'll definitely keep an eye out for one of those if I end up replacing the Roper.

@madman: So if I test between either side of the 220v socket and the ground in the middle, my meter should read 110v?

 

[madman]

That's correct. Either side of the plug to ground should read 120v. Granted, you're hoping ground is functional. And that's only because Neutral is tied to Ground. If you have the 4 pin plug, I believe the middle pin is Neutral, so either side pin (Line) to that should be 120v. Line to Line should be 240v.

Honestly, I feel like it might be the timer. There really isn't anything else on these machines to go wrong.

 

[human]

By process of elimination, I tend to agree the timer is looking to be the likely culprit. When I turned it by hand, the ohm meter showed the circuit opening and closing at the proper spots but that doesn't mean the mechanical portion isn't broken. The timer, of course, is more than ten times the cost of the door switch, but still a helluva lot cheaper than replacing the dryer.

 

[human]

What am I missing?

So this is sort of a good news/bad news story. The good news is that while I was looking online at timers--and getting a bit of sticker shock in the process--I suddenly recalled that I had one sitting on the shelf that I had ordered a couple of years ago when I replaced all the other stuff, but then I futzed around and missed the return window. That's the good news.

So then I put the part in--easy 15-minute job--and then plugged it in and tried to turn it on but nothing happened. After I unplugged it again, I summoned up my courage and tested the 220v outlet with my meter and it is indeed hot. I'm also happy to report that I managed not to electrocute myself.

I'm kind of running out of ideas here. With all the things I've replaced on this dryer over the past couple of years, I feel like I've practically built a new one inside the old shell. The start button still doesn't feel right to me when I push it; it seemed to have more travel before. Now, it barely moves at all. But the ohm meter shows that it is functioning as it should. There's also a little relay next to the timer that I have no idea about. The only other thing I haven't investigated is the drive motor, which does not hum or anything when I try to turn the dryer on. The belt also appears to be okay. There's obviously something I'm missing here. I just wish I knew what it is.

 

[kirbyklekter]

Human

Have you tried spraying a good contact cleaner on any of the switches. I can't tell you how many times this has remedied situations such as yours. I use the CRC Contact cleaner, you can buy at H.D. It's worth a try since you've about exhausted every other try.

 

[human]

I've got some CRC contact cleaner and it is indeed good stuff. I'll give it a shot (pun intended) this weekend when I go through everything one last time in a final attempt to get it running.

I went by a used appliance place and they had two Whirlpool branded dryers, one of which is pretty much identical to my Roper except it matches my Whirlpool washer perfectly, and another that is a little bit of an upgrade. Either would be $260 delivered with a 90-day warranty. I'll definitely pull all the new components I've installed on my Roper dryer before it goes out the door and keep those for spares.

What ticks me off is it's probably some $1.98 part that needs replacing and I just haven't figured it out yet.

 

[madman]

Well if you think the start switch is bad... follow your gut. It probably controls that relay. Remember high current switches are the ones that go bad. In this case, it's probably that relay.

 

[human]

I gave up...

After messing with the dryer a little more with no success, I gave up and went to the used appliance place and bought a Whirlpool dryer that matches my Whirlpool washer. I'm sitting here waiting for it to be delivered as I type this. I feel a little defeated by not being able to get my old dryer working but I'm glad to be able to close the book it. The ironic thing is they'll haul the old one away and probably fix it at no cost from spare parts they have on hand. Oh well, at least it'll have a third life and stay out of the landfill--at least for the foreseeable future.

 

[gottahaveahoove]

Well, you sure did your best.

You weren't like most who'd just dispose.

 

[human]

So the Roper dryer is off to its next life, replaced in my house by a Whirlpool "Commercial Quality, Super Capacity,8-cycle" dryer. The only thing that's less than good is the lint trap. It was halfway clogged with some brown stuff so I saved the one from my Roper, which fit into place perfectly except the Whirlpool trap has a little one-inch extension between the handle and the screen so it doesn't go down quite as far into the slot. I washed the Whirlpool lint trap and got it somewhat cleaner but I found a hole along one edge. My inclination is to continue using the Roper trap unless its being an inch shorter poses any major problem. If I decide I'm feeling ambitious, I may try to swap the Whirlpool handle onto the Roper screen, but there are a lot of plastic tabs involved and some of them are bound to get broken in the process. It's just the way of things.

 

[huskyvacs]

The first thing I would have done before messing with any switches is tested the motor and power cord. Check the carbon brushes, polish the armature if needed. Check where the cord contacts the terminals and make sure all are tight, look for any breaks.

Messing with any of the buttons or switches will not do any good and is an absolute waste of time if the motor is not working. It would be like tearing your car's engine apart to see why it isn't working when there's simply no gas in the tank.

 

[human]

I understand your point, although it is pretty much moot now that I no longer have that dryer. I'm looking forward to doing a load of laundry so I can try this new (to me) one out.

 

[kirbyklekter]

Human

I've had my Roper refrigerator made by Whirlpool for 24 years with not a single issue and it's going strong. So I hope you have a similar run with your Roper dryer.

 

[madman]

Husky, brushed universal motors are mostly limited to vacuum cleaners. Washers and dryers use induction motors. I suppose it's possible it's a capacitor start type, but generally if a cap goes, it would either end in smoke or the motor humming as it tries to start, which is apparently not the case.

 

[human]

It's dead, Jim...

I got the Roper dryer used in the fall of 2014, so it lasted me about 7.5 years. Not bad for a $60 investment, less than $10 a year. We'll see how well this Whirlpool dryer I got yesterday lasts but it, too, is used so I know not to have unrealistic expectations beyond the 90-day warranty. That said, I'm washing my bedding today and it's doing fine so far.

But yeah, the Roper dryer was completely dead, no hums, no nothin'. I did check the cord and there was continuity on all three leads. If the motor was shot, then for me, it was time to retire it and replace it. The people I bought the replacement dryer from can either repair and sell it or break it down for parts to repair other machines. Either way, it isn't headed immediately to the landfill.

Some people might feel like they got me coming and going but I actually have to respect their business model of replenishing their stock--at least partially--from the old machines they haul off when they deliver a replacement.

 

[huskyvacs]

 

[madman]

Bri'ish washing machines don't count lol

 

[mjhoshaw]

Many of today's washing machines do have brushed motors

We once owned an Asko front-loader with a brushed motor and belt drive. But, I don't know of any dryers that use them. They have no need to reverse direction or run at different speeds.


 


The brushed motors from these washing machines make killer project motors.

Of course, many of today's front-loaders like our current Bosch use direct drive. I wouldn't think they would yield good project motors.


 


Joel