Direct Air vs Bypass Air confusion

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GR! I typed a very long response that was erased by my phone when I tried to post.

To sum up what I originally tried to post...

I'd agree with Eurekaprince on his recommendation. Basic Miele canister, and I would go with a Kirby, Royal, or Aerus Electrolux as an upright. If you have dense carpeting then I'd probably go with the Kirby since it has tech drive, but if you have a lot of stairs you'd be carrying it up and down then I'd go with a Royal since they're a bit lighter.

My personal favorites are the Aerus Electrolux uprights, even though they aren't amazing deep carpet cleaners. They may not be the best for dense carpet, though, ecause they do not have a height adjustment.

I'd love to see how much you would've gotten out of your old carpets with a Royal with brush stiffeners, since you'd been using a Dyson DC-14.
 
Here's another fact:


 


Direct Air vacuums lift the carpet much better than Bypass Air vacuums because of the increased amount of airflow. The combination of having the fan so close to the carpet and the larger diameter of the air channel provides a vast improvement in airflow.


 


It's a fact that as the air path increases in length, the suction and airflow decrease. This can be proven when using a Kirby in Hose mode. The Kirby ships with a 6 foot hose, but there are 12 foot aftermarket hoses available. When you connect a Baird Airflow meter to the end of a 6 foot hose the meter will register a 7.5 - 8.0 on the scale. When you attach the Baird at the end of a 12 ft. hose the meter reads about a 5.0. Therefore, the longer the airpath, the lower the suction and airflow. Remember the airpath distance from carpet to fan on a Kirby or Royal is 3 inches. The distance from carpet to fan on most Bypass machines is 4 to 6 feet with several bends in between.


 


The diameter of  the airpath is also a huge factor in determining the amount of airflow through that airpath.


 


 
 
Fan-first uprights also don't need 12amp screaming motors. A 5amp motor on my wonderful Hoover Platinum "Oreck clone" is sufficient to provide excellent deep carpet cleaning. The WindTunnel segregated suction channels help make good use of the airflow provided and prevent scattering of dirt kicked up by the brush. It's not very noisy either! :-)

I think the no-frills classic fan-first Eureka Boss also uses a 5amp motor, maybe 6amps. Works great though! Less electricity drawn = a little less on your monthly electrical bill, too!

Truth be told, I've never picked up anything so dangerous that it broke the fan blades on any fan-first upright I ever used. Even the cheap 1983 Eureka Dial-a-Nap with the plastic fan blades survived after 20 years of use! :-)
 
What kind of carpet did you install??

There is a new kind of carpet on the market that is very very soft in texture. Due to the softness of that texture, it has caused MANY vacuums on the market to basically suck down like glue to them and not work very well. The carpet is called Frieze.

Due to this trend many manufacturers have worked to come out with a new "venting" technology to reduce strain of the cleaning head on a carpet to allow more airflow into the unit inside the cleaning head.

I have attached a youtube video produced by Panasonic that explains it quite well while introducing their new power nozzle for the situation.

http://https//www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMIx_BMTcsE
 
Here's my explanation for a lot of your questions.

***I am sorry that this got so long.  I have put some headings to split it up a little!


 


Filtration
Many sources tend to still think of "Direct Air", also known as "Dirty Air", as the old fashioned vacuum cleaner technology. Likewise many older vacuums that had this technology simply had a paper bag and then the air was exhausted. HEPA was not a thought at this time!!

A direct air machine actually has two areas on the machine where air will be exhausted. The first area of exhausted air is where the bag is. Only a low percentage of direct air units have a hard bag cover; most are soft cloth outer bag. For these you need to shop well and research that a HEPA bag is available, if that is the filtration level you're seeking. Generally the outer bags themselves are not HEPA rated. It is important to know for this that there are varying grades of what can be rated HEPA as well. True HEPA is 99.97% of all particulate down to .3 micron. Unfortunately many manufacturers won't tell you the exact specs of their HEPA grade!! But passing filthy air through a single thin layer of so-called HEPA is not as good as going through a second thick filter.

The second area of exhaust on a Direct Air unit is at the motor area. This is air that has been specifically brought into the unit to cool the motor and is then exhausted by the motor. Unfortunately there is generally NO filter for any of this area. Due to many systems not being fully sealed, there also tends to be a fair volume of dust in this air that escaped the vacuum path somehow and ended up in the motor area. This air also has emissions from the carbon brushes that the motor uses to operate. It is for these reasons above that Direct Air units are considered to not have as good of filtration as Bypass systems.

A bypass system generally has a single exhaust. Instead of a separate entrance needed for incoming air to come in and cool the motor and then be exhausted, this system instead uses the air that the dirt traveled in, which then passed through a combination of filters to then cool the motor and then be passed through another filter. So in a good Bypass system the air for cleaning has gone through a bag or cylcone, a premotor filter and then a final HEPA filter. Therefore there are little emissions from the motors carbon brushes being released or otherwise. The HEPA filters on these units are also thick as a HEPA is supposed to be so it is a true HEPA system. Also in-case a hole was to form in the bag that air is still filtered again!

Brush rolls


 


Brush roll, agitator, some Eureka models called it a Disturbulator.  Some people call it a beater bar!!-- That's where it gets confusing.  The brush roll should not be referred to a beater bar, though it can contain beater bars.  Beater bars were plastic or metal bars put on the vacuums brush roll to increase the agitation.  The point of a brush roll is to not only use bristles to sweep up pet hair and lint and groom a surface but also to create an Earthquake type of effect on the carpet to vibrate dirt from the bottom of the pile to the top where the bristles and air flow work in unison to carry the dirt away.  However, beater bars have been replaced by a 2nd row of bristles in over 95% of the markets machines.  With good bristle design and layout, outstanding agitation is achieved.  Generally a chevron design is highly recommended to guide the dirt towards the air duct. 


 


Some brands like Oreck market that their brush roll is good on hard flooring.  But do you really want to risk a high speed powered brush roll on your delicate floors???   Do you want to see similar brush roll grooming marks on your hard flooring that you'd see on carpet???  I hope you answered NO!!  The best tool for cleaning bare floors is a horsehair bristle equipped bare floor brush which is attached to the suction wand of a hose on a vacuum.  Miele and Riccar or Simplicity have the best designed ones for this as well.   A good bare floor tool can elongate how much time you need to go between wet cleaning of your hard floors.  Kitchens and bathrooms are a different story, but other rooms such as dining room, living room, bedrooms, the use a good bare floor tool will make your life much easier and will not damage your flooring during the cleaning process!!  I would try to avoid any bare floor brush that has wheels on it!!


 


AirFlow/ Suction/ Carpet Height


As far as carpet height, a Kirby explanation is the best.  Set your vacuum to the highest setting it has.  Turn the vacuum on and push it.  Gradually lower the vacuums cleaning head one setting at a time until the tone of the machine changes and you start seeing grooming marks.  Go one setting lower than that and you should be good for height setting. 


 


The suction seals the rug to the vacuum by pulling the carpet up to the vacuum.  This action isn't highly noticeable until reaching the edge of an area rug, door mat etc, but trust and believe a good vacuum is doing it the entire time it cleans.  The exception is on some carpets that are glued down.   But suction doesn't remove the dirt.  This is where air flow comes in.  If the seal to a surface is too strong then air can not enter and therefore the dirt won't go away.  The suction pulls in air and the air carries the dirt with it as it travels through the vacuum system.  You may notice upon viewing the bottom plate that surrounds the brush roll area of a vacuum cleaner that it generally is not the same flatness all around.  Usually along the front and side are some grooves.  These grooves allow air to come into the path.  The grooves also help to reduce a snow plow effect and can help the machine better gobble up chunky items, such as Cheerios.


 


Manufacturer


Tacony is a U.S vacuum manufacturer producing vacuum cleaners under the brands of Riccar, Simplicity, Fuller Brush, Maytag, Carpet-Pro, the Aerus Lite and other vacuums.  One of their Maytag uprights is shown in the Youtube video below and you can see how good agitation using a brush roll with only bristles effectively cleans and has no plastic beater bars!!  In terms of vacuum cleaners Tacony products are fantastic and highly rated!!  You won't go wrong with a Riccar, Simplicity, Fuller Brush or Maytag vacuum. 


 


Kirbys clean well.  But brand new they are around $1700.  They are heavy, can be awkward, the only way to shut off the brush is to turn off the unit or remove the brush roll assembly altogether.  Attachments are in a separate caddy that would have to be carried separate and it's not the quickest process to exchange.   I used to do in home product demonstrations for both Rainbow and Filter Queen cleaning systems.  I came across MANY Kirby owners.  Sadly only a small handful of those owners liked the units.  The rest felt that they were highly pressured into buying a very expensive unit that was too heavy and a lot of effort to use.  They had purchased a Kenmore, Hoover, Riccar, or Bissell as an easier to use vacuum and rarely used their Kirby.


 


Dysons represent the best design for how a bagless system works.  In general on most of their units the cyclonic action works well at separately the dirt from the air and filter life lasting longer.  Suction and airflow through the hose are generally very good.  However Dysons have not been tested well at providing good agitation and they typically don't have a good outlet of getting sufficient airflow to the carpet cleaning head for a thorough clean.  Additionally some of their brush roll designs have had bristle tufts that felt like pieces of concrete.  Some carpet manufacturers, such as Mohawk actually void your warranty if a Dyson is used due to agitator damage and insufficient cleaning. 


 


No matter your budget Tacony has a product line for you!!  Fuller Brush is on the budget friendly end but a great cleaner.  For power nozzle canisters the Simplicity Verve or new Wonder and Prima lines are fantastic!!!  Miele is also highly rated and Aerus is a great brand. 


 


Central Vacuum Thought


Also have you thought about a central vacuum???  That might be of interest to you!!  Numerous options are available and the air is exhausted outside.  There are Hide-A-Hose systems that store the hose in the wall.  Wally Flex systems for a hand held hose great at cleaning up in the garage or laundry area, Vroom hose system that can store underneath your kitchen sink to clean up your kitchen floor, power nozzle kits.  Central vacuums have come a long way with various additions.



http://https//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVfQ_SA1tHY
 
Wow, Rob, that's a hell of an explation. Very well written!

Personal preference aside, I have to agree with the others - direct air/dirty fan cleaners are better for the majority of carpets. That's not to say other designs don't also work well, but they do give the best results.

The problem with direct air is that the hose suction is often not particularly strong (Kirby aside). The design relies heavily on airflow rather than suction, but the drawback to that is usually weaker hose suction. Because the dirt is passing directly through the fan, the fan has to be solid and pretty basic.

Bypass/Clean fan design will give greater hose suction as the fan design can be far more complicated and, in some cases, have multiple fans to generate more suction. Bypass usually does have better filtration, although there have been huge advances in filtration of direct air machines over the last few years.

Bypass motors make for better cylinder/canister cleaners for above floor/hard floor cleaning, whereas direct air is better for medium-deep pile carpet.
 
To turn off the brush roll on a Kirby

Turn off the machine. 


Move the belt lifter to off position.


Turn machine back on.


 


When you desire the brush roll to operate again.


Turn the machine off


Move the belt lifter to the ON position.


Turn machine back on and adjust as mentioned above.


 


You can also use the Kirby in the canister mode, where there are bare floor tools available.  As well as a Bare floor brush that you can use on the Rug nozzle with the belt in the off position. 


 


Kirby also has an attachment to polish, and new models clean the bare floor.


 


 


In the archives there is a discussion of Direct Air/Bypass air



http://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?28347
 
Kirby Brushroll

Yes the Kirby brushroll is easy to turn off.


 


First, turn off the motor if it is running, then just turn the Belt Lifter counter-clockwise until the Red arrows line up. The Kirby is now ready to use as a straight suction cleaner on hard floors or delicate rugs.


 


To turn the brushroll back on, make sure motor is stopped, then turn the belt lifter all the way clockwise until the Green arrows line up.


 


That's how easy it is.


 


 
 
OK, so here's some revisions/ additions

Thank you all for the comments and helping me to better to state the point I made.  Yes you guys are correct, you can twist the lever and release the belt from the motor pulley on the Kirby easier than it would be to flip over a Hoover Decade machine, remove the bottom plate and take the belt off that pulley to then use as straight suction.--- I don't know if anyone would go to all of that work on a Hoover or Sanitaire style unit??  Even for attaching a hose and tools onto brush roll cavity of a Convertible I think many left the belt intact???---  Opinions and commentary appreciated on this!!!!


 


I guess what I meant by not turning off the Kirby brush is that you can't just push a switch at your fingertips or a foot pedal while the vacuum is currently running.  You have to shut down the machine, wait for armature to fully stop rotating, bend down, rotate the lever, etc.   While that's not hard, it's not as convenient or as fast as a brush roll on/off switch at finger tips.


 


I think if I had a Kirby and I was going to shut the brush roll off like that, I would end up just removing the entire floor head, installing the hose, wands and their multi-surface floor nozzle.  Kirby's come with a multitude of accessories!!!  Basically enough to fill an entire small closet.  The handheld sander does a pretty good job too and it really sucks the dust away.


 


Likewise with the belts on a Direct Air/ fan first system there is no belt protection system.  Anything incoming to the machine may get tangled around the brush roll or hit the fan.  Kirby fans and Royal fans are very durable.  There are many cases where these machines have sucked up screws and pennies and luckily the fan is still intact.  I think the Kirby fan lasts longer as depending on the object a Royal fan may be dented.  However if a large screw was sucked into a Sanitaire direct air vacuum or Hoover Elite, as an example-- that fan would in most cases be shattered.  A large object jamming a brush roll in many direct air units may melt a belt and leave a little mess to clean up on both the motor pulley and brush roll. 


 


There are advantages and disadvantages to both style of units.  One has to outweight the pros and cons based on what is important for his/ her cleaning needs. 


 


The one constant that I have found to be true amongst nearly all vacuum collectors, enthusiasts, and shop owners is that we all despise bagless machines!!!   Bagged, water filtration, such as the Rainbow or Filter Queen with their genuine cones are the way to go.   But bagless filtered or cyclonic systems have numerous downfalls and lose power tremendously quicker while requiring significantly more indepth and more frequent maintenance!!!!


 


Bagged seems to be most preferable now and many manufacturers have a system that seals the bag upon removing so there is essentially no potential of a dust cloud escape. 


 


Sebo/ Windsor/ Aerus machines seem to do the best as far as indication of when the bag is completely full and shutting down the machine to let the user know that.  The bags at that point are generally packed similar to a brick!! 


 


Direct Air machines can pack a bag like a brick but you have to check the bag and make sure it doesn't go above the fill line.  I have never seen a direct air machine come equipped with any sort of bag full indicator.  Though if the unit has an out cloth bag then you can basically judge by the bulge of the bag overtime!!!    


^^^^Please correct me if someone knows of a direct air unit that has a bag full indicator!


 


I guess another point of mention is that generally a direct unit is more energy efficient!!  Many of them come in the range of 6 - 8 Amps of electric usage.  The larger fan, located just a few inches from the brush roll, with a significantly wider opening and being center mounted allows for a greater volume of incoming air and the fan blades are deeper than that found on a bypass system. 


 


Many bypass systems are 10-12 amps of use.  The majority of Bissells, Eurekas, Hoovers, Kenmores, Sharks and all that low priced stuff has consumers thinking that more electricity used equals more power so they all have 12 Amp motors.  It's extremely sad how they try to dupe and misinform the public!!!   Electric usage has nothing to do with the power.  It's all about fan size, how many fans, brush roll design, distance air has to travel and how many sharp turns or 90 degree angles there are in the unit for the air to pass through. 
 
EurekaPrince

Did you use a Kenmore Progressive canister and that's where you experienced electrical issues???   


 


Kenmore Intuition and Kenmore Progressives are one of the only power nozzle canister vacuums I've heard of to experience electrical issues.  It happens with the wands at the quick disconnect points.  They weren't designed snug enough in the beginning and then consumers abuse the machines by disconnecting the wands while power is still running.  This over time tends to create a short and any plastic in the area weakens over time. 


 


Circuit boards are another one.  The Hoover Windtunnel Anniversary S3670 was plagued by circuit board issues causing loss of power to the power nozzle and also I've seen Electrolux units-- the newer style Eureka made Electrolux units with the circuit boards have issues.   Maybe over course of my new IT career when I complete my studies, I can work to improve this!


 


I have never had an electrical issue with any of my Hoovers, Eurekas, Simplicity or any other canister vac I've used or tried over the years.  I am 34 years old and have been cleaning houses as a side gig since I was 12.  I also sold Rainbow and Filter Queen.  Currently I have 11 power nozzle canisters in the house.  They are my goto machine for thorough house cleaning any cleaning job I do!!   The versatility for cleaning all surfaces quickly and easily, getting under beds, under night tables, carpet or hard floor stairs, removing cobwebs from the ceiling just can't be beat. 


 


I think every household should own a decent power nozzle canister vacuum cleaner!


 
 
Rob,


 


I'm not sure, but I think the Riccar Radiance Tandem Air may have a bag full indicator. But then it might not be considered a true Direct Air vacuum.


 


 
 
Usually a direct air, soft bag vacuum doesn't need a bag full indicator.  You can pretty much eyeball, or give it a squeeze  and tell it's full.   You can also tell when you notice a decrease in performance.  


 


 
 
canisters

Like Rob, I'm a huge canister fan, if you have all hard wood floors, you may not need a power nozzle, but canisters are by far more flexible than uprights. With a power nozzle, they will clean ccarpets as good as, if not better than uprights, and you can get under things easier without moving them. For above the floor cleaning, canisters are much better. While many uprights have on board attachments, they're not as easy to use and don't have as much reach. And now that the volt is available, it's very easy to convert any straight suction canister in to a power nozzle canister, much better than going the turbo nozzle route. What a canister offers over an upright can be described in two words, flexibility and versatility.
 
Well N0oxy, that's a matter of opinion. I happen to find an Upright much easier to just grab and start cleaning my carpets with out setting up a canister by connecting the hose etc. I also find it a pain in the butt to drag a canister around behind me always worrying if I might trip on it if I back up.


 


But here's the most important negative about canisters and that is deep cleaning ability.


A power nozzle is just not heavy enough to do a good deep cleaning job. You need the weight of an upright vacuum to really get down and form a proper seal with the carpet.


 


Now straight suction canisters are great to have around for above the floor cleaning.


 


I personally like a small simple inexpensive canister like the Eureka Mighty Mite as a companion to my Kirby Sentria for all my above the floor cleaning.
 
Durango

There was a bissell direct air with a hard body that had a bag full indicator light, late 90's can't remember the model. I remember it clearly though, it was plum colored with the hose going up the side of the unit and stopping at the top. Many Hoover hard bodied units had the little pop out thing but that certainly was not a indicator light.
 
I agree with everything of what sptyks said. I really hate canisters, I take a central vacuum anyday over a canister that can be easier, lighter, and maybe wouldn't trip over as much than compare to a canister. If I want a vacuum that can do a better job on carpets and something that can also easily do above floor cleaning, I would go with a "Metal bypass upright" like a Riccar, Simplicity, Cirrus, Evolution, etc. They have a inlet port on the back to use an extension hose on and use it like you are using a central vacuum.

This picture is not mine.

panasonicvac-2016101822283504538_1.jpg
 
central vacuum

Central vacuums are good, you do have the long hose but you're not pulling something behind you, and if you want the most powerful suction and airflow, connect a central vacuum hose directly to a central vacuum power unit, without pipes, the power this gives you is amazing. Another option is the backpack vacuum, although this can knock in to walls if you are cleaning a closed space, definitely lots of vacuum options out there for sure. I'm just not a fan of uprights, but that's personal preference.
 
NoOxy-- I disagree about the weight of a power nozzle vs. an upright.

Yes weight is important but more important than that is carpet height setting. Many power nozzle canisters have height settings. The majority of uprights have height settings. With a height set properly the weight of a cleaning head isn't near as much of a debate in the issue. Not all power heads and uprights are created equal. Orecks, Eureka Bravo, Hoover Air series, Sharks, Dyson, many uprights on the market over time are very lightweight heads. Power head wise: Miele SEB217, current Filter Queen Majestic, Riccar Snap/ mid size power head and many others are compact, low weight power nozzles with no height settings. They each do OK at cleaning but nothing substantial. A substantial power nozzle would be an Aerus, Hoover Quadraflex, Hoover Windtunnel, Simplicity Verve- full size, Beam Rugmaster, Kenmore Progressive, etc. Those are good cleaning power heads!!

Otherwise as you describe it, a Kirby head may have weight but if height adjuster is set wrong then the weight means nothing at all. Also Kirbys and other uprights are quite rear heavy compared to the front of the housing.

As long as a power nozzle on a canister is set properly to the carpet with suction set properly and it's a decent nozzle with good balance and manueverability such as this Simplicity Verve power nozzle then a good seal to the rug is easily acheived!! The suction of the vacuum pulls the carpet to the vacuum head creating a good seal while the airflow and agitation go to work at removing the dirt.

As far as tripping while using a canister. I've tripped with chairs and small book racks that I have moved out of the way to do my vacuuming but I have not tripped on a suction unit. I reverse my way out of a room and guide the canister back with my foot. Maybe I've just gotten quite used to it. I would just much rather manuever a power nozzle that can get under chairs, coffee tables, night tables, and beds.

A main reason I like canisters is that the wand is 1.25" thick respectively. I'm manuevering a very thin wand around a room which is lighter to use and easier to steer and see around without rubbing into things compared to a 15" thick upright body squeezing between various furnishings!! I don't want a vacuum bag compartment rubbing against my bed blankets or possible scraping along window sills while cleaning!!

durango159-2016101823525802458_1.jpg

durango159-2016101823525802458_2.jpg
 
I am generally an upright guy as well-Kirbys,Tacony Tandem air,Royal metal,and Sanitare uprights my main choices.Canisters are great for other jobs-and a great choice if you don't have carpet.I have WW carpet-so the upright is still best for that job-really easier-just grab and go.Uprights can win in carpet cleaning-remember their high CFM and fan close to the floor?I use my canisters-central included for other vacuum jobs-except when pairing the Kirby with my MD central as a powerful tandem air machine.Tacony tandem air vacuums do have bag filled indicators.for it to show the bag has to be packed pretty tight-these and good at packing their bags.The bags in the Tacony tandem air machines may look small-but they are well packed!The combination of direct air and clean air design packs the bags tightly!
 

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