Born To Love Me...

VacuumLand – Vintage & Modern Vacuum Enthusiasts

Help Support VacuumLand:

Yep that is the one I'd go for.

I know I always say to use only Genuine Hoover parts but there really aren't any Hoover brush rolls available anymore for the Seniors and the ones that are want silly money for them.
 
Yes Jamie, thats very true, and the older your Ranger gets, the less genuine spares will be available, until the point when you cant even get genuine H1 bags or V5 belts. Aftermarket isnt always crap, and in some cases may even be better than the original. Say you had a pack of 2 belts for your Ranger that were genuine Hoover ones - they had been stored in some cold warehouse for years having been made a long time ago - the rubber will deteriorate with age, and so these belts may be of not much use as they will break quickly when put into service. Then say I buy a pair of Qualtex belts for the Ranger made only last year, they will be better due to not being stored for years, although they are non genuine. I have ordered aftermarket belts for this reason, but have ordered genuine bags. I just dont know what conditions the original Hoover belts were stored under before being sold, or how old they are. I will post back about the aftermarket belts in due course. It has an aftermarket belt fitted now anyway by the last owner.
 
No doubt Hoover will stop making H1 bags and V5 belts some day, but for the day that happens I'll buy bags and belts in bulk when I have an income.

I must admit, I have a generic belt on my Ranger just now because I got a free pack of generic belts from a brilliant eBayer and don't want to waste them. Once they are finished (which won't be too long if I know generics!) I will be buying Genuine Hoover belts and NOTHING BUT.
 
On the subject of those generic belts in question, you really can tell what Hoover means when they say only the Genuine parts are made to the rigorous specifications, because when I put one of the brand new generic belts on the Ranger, I didn't even have to pull hard at all - it just stretched over the pulley with no resistance.

Plus when I used it today although the belt wasn't slipping, I could hear it slapping against the metal belt guard due to the fact it has too much slack in it.

Lets look at the cost difference; £2 for one generic belt or £4 for two Genuine (current eBay approximate prices).

Think about it for a second and taking the fact that Genuine belts last longer out of the equation, you aren't spending any more money full stop!

The fact they last longer just goes to show how much you are saving by doing the right thing and trusting the manufacturer to keep your machine running smoothly.
 
But do they last longer? at twice the price of aftermarket belts, do they last twice the time? what you pick up with the cleaner also affects the belt life, as anything hard (metal shards/coins/stones etc) will damage the belt due to its exposed design to the dirt passing over it and its pulley. Also, deep pile carpet will shorten the life as it puts more strain on the belt - the same goes for using the cleaner at too low a carpet pile setting, putting strain on the belt too. I think round belts that are exposed like on the old dirty fan cleaners just dont last very long compared to the flat belts that are seperated from the dirt as on a modern clean fan cleaner.
Of course, whether its a dirty fan or a clean fan, if there is no clutch then both belts will snap if the brushroll is jammed.
Whilst I may agree with you Jamie about the bags, genuine Hoover are probably better than cheapo aftermarket as they are more permeable - I cant prove this yet. My ranger has an aftermarket bag on it, and its empty at the moment. I will see how long it takes for airflow to be compromised badly on this bag, then on a genuine H1 bag that I have on order.
 
Just thought Jamie - you could use that picture of you with your long pipe and your Ranger to send to a prospective employer for a cleaning job - shows them how enthusiastic you are about hoovering - but you may have to use a Henry though, as many cleaning firms or employers will give you a commercial cleaner to use. Oh and you will have to learn how to clean toilets and empty bins lol
 
I doubt it would make any difference Steve.

I will make a similar picture with my Henry though, thanks for the idea.
 
What is it with VL and people not taking a bloody joke ?

Have you ever stopped and thought for a moment that maybe the problem is you and not everyone else? Maybe you're just not funny....
 
A word from "across the pond"

<span style="font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif;">A good, informative thread going here.  </span>


<span style="font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif;">Hope Jamie gets lots of information.  So nice to see a young person with a constructive hobby.  </span>


<span style="font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif;">Let's try not to get nasty and spoil the thread. </span>
 
To be fair, the problems are with a good deal of people who choose to view things through negative eyes, rather than take something at face value, or, failing that, say nothing at all. However, pack-mentality and tribalism is of course a natural instinct and in that sense it is easy to see why the internet is in the state it is.

As for the Ranger, I too thing there are other machines which compare more favourably to it, although seeing how the Powerplus range has been mentioned, I must suggest that for me, the Ranger was always superior for a number of reasons. Firstly, I always considered the metal chassis to be far more durable, though it is also fair to say I saw very few examples of later cleaners with plastic chassis that has encountered damage.

Secondly, I preferred the round, soft-grip handle. Time and again I sold replacement handles for these Seniors, as the hard plastic insert-style handles would often snap. I also felt the round handle was more comfortable.

Thirdly, Hoover did build the handle release pedal and on/off switch into one convenient foot pedal, which for upright use was jolly handy, but when using tools could be difficult and it was essential that the user gripped the handle when switching off and on, as the handle could well come crashing down, particularly when switching off, as the inflated dustbag would pull down on the freshly released handle. Indeed I do recall one woman informing me of such an incident happening in her home, the result of which was a broken ornament and broken handle, would you believe it, as both came down with a crash as the handle was released accidentally.

On the other side, I think we can all agree that the front-facing pan converter hose assembly was a much needed and much welcome change from the rear-facing hose connector. It provided more suction than older models, even when those older cleaners were running at high speed. I also much preferred the cable hooks as these were far stronger.
 
Well Jamie, first of all I hope you are able to find a job. And since I have repaired my convertible 707 I have warmed up to them. They may not have been the overall best hoovers ever, but there is something simply magical about them.


Scott
 
Removing agitator shaft

Unscrew one end cap, then get a hammer and holding the agitator with the unscrewed end pointing upwards, drive the shaft down sharply until it comes out. Pulling on the end cap at the other side or using pliers at the far end is unlikely to get you anywhere.

Get a mole grip wrench and lock it onto the shaft fairly close to the end you wish to unscrew; it will then come off.

In severe cases, the bearing may have collapsed in the housing and it helps if you can leave the bearing housings soaking for a while to aid removal of the remains, especially if they are the alloy kind. You will probably find you can use the shaft to knock these out if necessary. The threads are unlikely to be damaged if you use the right technique with the hammer..though if they are can be cleaned up with a small file.

The hardest ones I've found to get out have been some 1930s Hoovers, which have a different design with the bearing housings riveted in. In one severe case I used an oxy-gas torch to free off the remains of the old bearing in the housing. However, usually the bearing shell, if it separates from the main part of the bearing and gets stuck in the housing, can be removed with a punch from the inside, with the housing resting across jaws of a vice, which are opened in the centre.

Hope this helps, should do because I've been getting hundreds out like that for 25 years and never had one that didn't come out!

Stephen
 
First of all.....

very cute pic of  Jamie (or very handsome if you insist). WD-40 is nothing but a water displacement formulation, hence the initials 'WD'.  Great for spraying wet distributor caps and the like. It's a very poor lubricant, because...it's not a lubricant at all and despite rumors to the contrary, it's a piss-poor rust penetrant as well.. Dozens of other products eclipse it. And...you're making some US family dynasty richer and richer by buying it. Just because you can hunt around and find a gallon of it on sale for less than $10, doesn't make it a 'good' product.


 


The 3-IN-ONE company does make a bearing oil. It's called MOTOR OIL and is about SAE 20wt. It's perfect for motor bearings 1/4hp and larger. It comes in a blue & white can...different than their hinge-oiler formula.
smiley-wink.gif



 


Kevin
 
Its an actual word, meaning to hoover, or to vacuum clean.
Try limiting a search on Ebay UK to those Hoover branded cleaners, as everyone calls vacuums hoovers here regardless of wether they are Hoover cleaners or not.
Hence the terms "Vacuum hoover", "Dyson hoover", "I hoovered up with the Sebo"

Its a trademark erosion - caused by the fact that most homes vacuumed with a Hoover in the olden days, and the name stuck, just used without the capital H.

See Wikipedia:

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/hoover
 

Latest posts

Back
Top