Royal Upright Help Needed

[louvac]

Hey Guys!

I need some help with a Royal metal upright model 2075. It features the 10 amp "drop-in" motor and was manufactured in July of 1998 (code= G98C ["c" probably refers to the plant?]. Anyhow....

The light bulb barely illuminates as the filament glows only a very weak orange, so electrity is reaching the socket though maybe not the full amount? I tried a new bulb with the same results. The outer cord has a 1/4" skinned area, however, with the white wire exposed, though not knicked at all.

Also, when you turn it on without the belt, it makes a short higher pitched "arrt" kinda sound but runs smoothly without any real bearing noise otherwise.

I am wondering if these two issues are connected? How? Or, what the hell is going on here? I am not familiar with the drop-in motor. I did check the fan and there isn't anything jammed inside the housing such as a paper clip. All is clean.

Any Royal gurus have any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[powertank]

Well, first off, make sure your bulbs are rated for 110. Sometimes store will sell 220 bulbs for whatever reason. Secondy, check the contacts in the socket and clean them if they are dirty. If the motor was installed correctly, all of the line wires(black) are connected, as are the neutral from the switch and from the motor (white). The neutral from the socket is wired to the orange wire from the motor. If that is how it is wired, and it isn't working, you can just move the neutral from the lamp to hook into the rest of the white wires, and cover up the orange one.

 

[louvac]

Tried...

I removed the gray cover and exposed the wires. Here is what I saw.....all 3 blacks together, 2 yellows together, and 2 whites together. Is this correct?

 

[kittingerhoover]

You mean......

The 10 amp "drop-OUT" TTI motor........ LOL

 

[louvac]

What is your honest opinion of that motor?

 

[powertank]

Oh, the colors are different in that motor. Wire the yellow wire from the headlight to the rest of the white wires, then insulate the remaining yellow wire well.

Well, although Royals are still one of the best vacuums, the newer-style motors aren't nearly as good. If you take care of them, they will still last forever, and they can be rebuilt with new brushes and bearings. However, they have a higher failure rate than the older motors. They are more noisy as well.

One thing people need to watch out for is faulty belt shafts. (The shaft that the belt rides on) TTI has been machining these things improperly so that they are out of round. When they get really bad, they make a loud ringing/buzzing/resonating sound. We usually have to dig through a couple of new ones before we find one that is properly made.

 

[louvac]

Well, let there be light!

in Vacuumland that is!

A fellow comrad emailed me and helped me to diagnose my problem! Thanks so much!

Apparently, the bulbs in some of the newer Royals (maybe other brands, too!) use a 12V automotive type bulb as opposed to a 120V bulb. Viola! Let there be light! I actually had these bulbs and didn't realize that they were 12V. Their shape gave it away and then a light (pardon the pun) went off in my brain and I recalled seeing these bulbs in my parts bins.

As far as the chirping sound, this may be caused by the bearing skidding due to the sudden start with the belt dissengaged. The motor starts very fast with no load. It also may be an indication that the bearing is beginning to dry out. But, without any screaming noises, it's nothing to worry about!

 

[eurekastar]

I have a 2075 too. I love that vacuum! Mine was manufactured here in the U. S. in 1996. It's light weight and easy to maneuver.