Restoring Kenmore Powermate canister

[fan-of-fans]

This might sound silly, but I'd like to restore my first Kenmore Whispertone canister from 2000. It's the hunter green color.

The main issues:
-The canister and PN are scratched
-The PN turns on and off when being pushed and pulled back
-The Powermate Jr. stopped working not long after I got the vacuum
-The dusting brush bristles are worn down

So what can I use to get the scratches off? I tried Brasso but it just seemed to make it a little dull, so I put Armor All back on for now.

I'm assuming the reason the PN turns on and off is because the plug is bad? Can I get a new cord and plug for the PN, or is it really expensive. It's the quick release PN, BTW, and has the switch on the hose handle.

I also read about a foam filter around the motor that should be cleaned?

Finally, does Sears sell the dusting brushes anymore and are they really expensive?

Sorry about all the questions, hopefully someone can answer some of these. Thanks.

 

[kirbyvertibles]

well the best thing to do is go to sears.com and type in the model number on the power head for the cord and model number for the axcnister for the brush and filters. as far as scratches, if its smudges from hitting the wall you can use oops but do it very lightly and then go over it with turtle car wax. Works for me as long as you don't rub to hard on the light plastic parts.

 

[fan-of-fans]

Thanks for the info. I went to Sears today and looked, they do have the dusting brushes and other attachments. The dusting brush is $10 though, kind of expensive.

 

[fan-of-fans]

Well I think I got the Powermate issue fixed. I read a thread that said it is caused by the receptacle on the handle sliding in and out. I took mine apart and that was the reason, the small tabs holding the plug broke and it was sliding. So I decided to glue the plug in place.

Now I've got another issue. I noticed electrical tape around the plastic part that holds the wands together. I took it off to find that two pieces were broken off. I tried to glue them, but it doesn't seem to be bonding. Hopefully I can get that fixed as well.

Does anyone know if the scuffs can be removed from the plastic? The Powermate especially has streaks where it looks duller. I tried Armor-All, but it just seems to make them more noticable.

 

[gmerkt]

Well, I use a couple of methods to clean off anything that can't be removed with soap/water or Windex. Some people might not approve, but they work for me when I clean up vacs to resell. (1) mildly abrasive compounds like automotive chrome cleaner, rubbing compound (comes in different grades of abrasive), Brasso, Simi-chrome polish, etc. You just have to experiment on an underneath surface to see how it's gonna work/look. The finest abrasive you can find is the white stuff that they use in the air force to polish plexiglass but it takes a lot of elbow grease. (2) Here's where you'll hear a sucking-in of breath from some of the other members. Lacquer thinner, carefully used on ABS plastic compounds works well especially for stubborn marks. Works much faster than abrasives but you have to be judicious with it. Often I dilute it in a mix of 50% mineral spirits (paint thinner) and 50% lacquer thinner. If it leaves a bit of ghosting, that can be removed with a little mild abrasive compound or even with a soft, dry cloth. I also use lacquer thinner on the rubber bumpers around the nozzle.

You've got to know your plastics a bit to use these things with success. The cheap stuff (non-ABS; weird Chinese concoctions of no known formula) won't take to solvents in any useful way. Best to experiment first on an underneath surface. Work fast when you do it; don't stay in one place too long or you will penetrate the shiny outer surface with the solvent.

The Kenmore you are referring to I believe has ABS housing parts. I've used the above on many Kenmores with success.