Renaissance triac replacement. I'm being told I have to replace both the canister and handle boards

[offthelake]

I recently replaced the motor in my C104A Renaissance vacuum after the original motor (18 years old) lost suction, begun making grinding noises, and then burnt up, with a small wisp of smoke and a smell of ozone.

After installing the new motor (aftermarket model, Aerus wanted an insane $250), I let it run for awhile to make sure everything was OK before putting it back together. After a few minutes the motor shut off and the red light next to the power button began blinking. I tried unplugging it and, after plugging it back in it would run for awhile and then do the same thing. This happened a few times until now it will not turn on at all no matter what I do.

I understand this is most likely the canister triac board. I called Aerus to get a replacement. The salesperson told me that often times, when a motor goes bad, it will burn up the triac as well from pulling too much power. I told him that when I ran the old motor with the canister cover off, the old motor was much louder than the new one and far more electrical arcs were occuring in the old motor than the new one. He said, given that, it does sound like the motor burned out the triac.

He then said that when you replace the canister triac ($32), you must also replace the triacs in the handle (an additional $149) because anytime they have had a situation like mine, if they only replace the canister triac, the handle triacs ended up burning up within a few weeks from the new motor.

Has anyone else heard of or know anything about this - that, if a failing motor causes the canister triac to also fail, that you must replace all the triacs at the same time so that the handle triacs don't burn up from the new motor?

Thanks.

 

[dysonman1]

I've worked on many Renny's over the years. The board in the vacuum will fail if the old motor is pulling too many amps (which a bad commutator will do). Generally, the hose board is fine. There is a replacement (non genuine) hose for the Renny models that wholesales for less than a hundred dollars, but uses switches rather than a touch pad (like the last of the Renny series used). I'll bet just replacing the board in the canister is all you'll need to do. The board in the hose handle should be fine.

 

[offthelake]

Thanks for the response. I replaced the original hose carcass about 6 months ago with a genuine version, as it was only $20 more than the non-genuine. The hose handle is still all original.

I'm just going to replace the canister board first and, if the other one does fail, I'll replace it then.