Rainbow D2 Reassembly

[eurekastar]

I found a D2 with a power nozzle outlet about a month ago.  I think it is an aftermarket add on, because the power nozzle receptacle is a 2 wire.  I just happen to have a 3 wire power nozzle, so I'll need to convert it to a 2 wire setup.  Until then, I've busy trying to find all the parts to rebuild the main motor.  Unfortunately, the lower bearing AND the bearing plate are no longer available through Rainbow.  Nor does the aftermarket maker of the bearing plate manufacture it anymore.  HOWEVER, a diligent search uncovered a source for NOS bearing plates.  In addition, I found out the number for the lower bearing (88502) and was able to find several sources for it too!  I'm still waiting for the bearing plate to arrive, but I thought I'd begin the reassembly process.  This is a photo of the old bearing plate.  You can see from the cutouts around the bearing that air flows through the motor itself. 

 

[eurekastar]

A view of the motor's interior

You can tell from the dirt that air flows directly through the motor. 

 

[eurekastar]

This motor needed new carbon brushes.  Unfortunately, the old carbon brushes are no longer available.  However, the good news is that the new style brushes and brush holders from the D3 fit perfectly.  But the terminal clips for the old brushes had to be converted to female spade connectors in order to work.  This is what the new style female spade connectors look like. 

[this post was last edited: 8/18/2012-21:15]

 

[eurekastar]

Old style brush holder.  The slot is where the terminal clip slides into. 

 

[eurekastar]

New style brush holder. 

 

[eurekastar]

New style brush holder.

 

[eurekastar]

The lower bearing has a larger inside diameter than the top bearing.  I'm not quite sure why it's designed that way, except the separator is held on with a large screw.  That would require the lower shaft to be larger.  There is a bearing shield and slinger ring on the inside.  Rainbow recommends that grease be applied to both sides.  It's probably not necessary today, because new bearings are sealed with plastic in order to protect against rust and corrosion.  Old style bearings were shielded, but they weren't sealed.  This bearing has to be tapped into place around the outside race just like the front bearing in may Kirby vacuums. 

 

[eurekastar]

Lower bearing fully installed and greased with slinger ring and bearing shield in place.  All that's left is to tighten the screws!

 

[eurekastar]

Motor field, motor brushes, armature, air deflector, and spider all installed.  This is all I can do until the bearing plate arrives.  Hopefully that will happen on Monday.  I accidentally cracked the air deflector.  It's actually a thin piece of heat resistant plastic.   I don't think the crack will hurt.   It actually looks kind of like Bakelite. 

 

[eurekastar]

The bearing plate came in today, so I was able to complete the reassembly tonight.  This is the gasket between the bearing plate and the motor housing. 

 

[eurekastar]

Brand new bearing plate and fan spacer installed.  It's a challenge getting the bearing plate, gasket holes, and screw holes on the motor housing all aligned!  This bearing plate is an aftermarket product. 

 

[eurekastar]

One of three fans installed. 

 

[eurekastar]

Each fan has it's own stage housing.  There are two spacers like this too.

 

[eurekastar]

With the motor fully assembled, it's now time to attach the motor support ring to the main housing.  That installation begins with installing this clamp to the rubber support ring.  and then attaching it with eight screws to the main housing. 

 

[eurekastar]

Motor support ring installed in the main housing.  The bottom of the motor will attach to the motor support ring with a flange and eight screws.  This is actually a wonderful design and provides great stability to the motor. 

 

[eurekastar]

View of the installed motor from the bottom.  The foam motor gasket installs directly on top of the flange that's used to support the motor.  It is the primary gasket and the lip around the motor support ring functions as a secondary gasket.  You can see the windings on the motor field through the spider. 

 

[eurekastar]

After getting the motor installed onto the main housing, it's time to seat the motor brushes.  To do this, I wired the motor in sequence with a D3.  They are close to the same amperage, so I didn't think it would hurt.  I ran it for 30 minutes to break in the motor brushes.  The careful eye will note that, on the bottom fan stage, there is a grounding screw.  That stage design isn't original to the D2.  Originally, the motor was grounded to the motor support ring clamp.  However, the ground wire was run between the sharp edge of the switch cover and the motor support ring clamp.  That wasn't a great design in my opinion, because it wore away the insulation on the ground wire.  Also, on the original cord, the ground wire was too short to reach the ground screw.  Luckily, the D3 that I had for part still had a good cord, so I used it. 

 

[eurekastar]

And here it is, all complete.  Unfortunately, the chrome on the dome is beginning to peel off, so I'm going to take it to a chrome plating shop and have it re-chromed.  The good thing is that there there isn't a dent or ding in it. 

 

[eurekastar]

After taking it on its inaugural run, I noticed that the chrome was quite warm.  I was a little concerned about that until I remembered that air in this model is drawn directly through the motor instead of around it.  Therefore, the exhaust is going to be much hotter than that on peripheral discharge motors.