madman
Well-known member
To be perfectly fair, this is probably the most complicated wiring on a vacuum cleaner...
Need Assistance in Diagnosing D80
- Thread starter vaclab
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vacuumdevil
Well-known member
@madman
Don't take this the wrong way. Simplicity synergy Riccar radiance has a 32 pin wire harness. Also the Hoover dimension 1000 form the 1980s , had a lot of wires going inside.
They've gotten more and more complicated as the years have gone by.
From my perspective I wish they were all like this.
@vaclab Can't wait to see the finished machine.
Don't take this the wrong way. Simplicity synergy Riccar radiance has a 32 pin wire harness. Also the Hoover dimension 1000 form the 1980s , had a lot of wires going inside.
They've gotten more and more complicated as the years have gone by.
From my perspective I wish they were all like this.
@vaclab Can't wait to see the finished machine.
vaclab
Well-known member
The story so far...
I think there might be some misconception about the wiring. Specifically, the D80 was working 100% before disassembly for polishing. BUT, I never removed any wires, wiring harness, coils or power switch. I did (carefully) remove the speed switch from the front fan case but left all wiring intact.
You can see me polish the headlight hood while everything is still attached to the motor casing in the first post.
I also removed the armature in order to replace the front bearing (done) and re-pack the rear bearing (TBD).
Charlie (NY) thanks for the offer and I will take you up on it if/when all else fails.
Reggie, here is a different pic of the power switch wiring. Again, nothing has been touched, except re-tinning the brush holder wire (#1 in above pic).
Bill
I think there might be some misconception about the wiring. Specifically, the D80 was working 100% before disassembly for polishing. BUT, I never removed any wires, wiring harness, coils or power switch. I did (carefully) remove the speed switch from the front fan case but left all wiring intact.
You can see me polish the headlight hood while everything is still attached to the motor casing in the first post.
I also removed the armature in order to replace the front bearing (done) and re-pack the rear bearing (TBD).
Charlie (NY) thanks for the offer and I will take you up on it if/when all else fails.
Reggie, here is a different pic of the power switch wiring. Again, nothing has been touched, except re-tinning the brush holder wire (#1 in above pic).
Bill
bnsd60m9200
Well-known member
silly question
but are you testing it with the rug nozzle on it?
but are you testing it with the rug nozzle on it?
Hey
The carbon brush ground wire is in the b which is power.
The carbon brush wires one is black one is green. If the green you have is a ground it needs to go next to the white in g slot. The black carbon brush would go in the b slot. It could be those wires got switched. I don't know you may be able to do it. Don't worry everyone sucks at soldering. I think they make soldering iron $itty so everyone is no good at it.
Les
The carbon brush ground wire is in the b which is power.
The carbon brush wires one is black one is green. If the green you have is a ground it needs to go next to the white in g slot. The black carbon brush would go in the b slot. It could be those wires got switched. I don't know you may be able to do it. Don't worry everyone sucks at soldering. I think they make soldering iron $itty so everyone is no good at it.
Les
madman
Well-known member
Les, what do you mean? Soldering is easy, even with a crappy iron.
...are you using flux when you solder? Cuz I have a friend, who for the longest time thought that flux was for idiots, while it took him a month to solder a 20 pin plug. Finally I coerced him to buy some flux, he finished his project in a day, came back with a smile on his face and thanked me heartily.
I've found that a lot of people are like that. Some weird stigma about using flux.
...are you using flux when you solder? Cuz I have a friend, who for the longest time thought that flux was for idiots, while it took him a month to solder a 20 pin plug. Finally I coerced him to buy some flux, he finished his project in a day, came back with a smile on his face and thanked me heartily.
I've found that a lot of people are like that. Some weird stigma about using flux.
Hey
I use flux. I know what my problem is. I didn't have a heat gun so I melted heat shrink with soldering gun. I need to clean head and usie heat shrink gun I have.
I can solder I have to have the roach clip in a football goalposts holder to keep wires in place. I always dip in flux before soldering.
I didn't realize until now we'll I realized but it just clicked that's why it's not soldering well.
Les
I use flux. I know what my problem is. I didn't have a heat gun so I melted heat shrink with soldering gun. I need to clean head and usie heat shrink gun I have.
I can solder I have to have the roach clip in a football goalposts holder to keep wires in place. I always dip in flux before soldering.
I didn't realize until now we'll I realized but it just clicked that's why it's not soldering well.
Les
vaclab
Well-known member
EUREKA!
or maybe I should say KIRBY!
The D80 lives AGAIN! While you will see a video fairly soon, the issue ended up being the green carbon brush wire. At the point where it connects to the brush holder, there was an intermittent connection.
AND the connection point to the power switch was also sketchy.
I've rebuilt that weird rear bearing and am finishing the final assembly soon.
Thanks for everyone's ideas,
Bill
or maybe I should say KIRBY!
The D80 lives AGAIN! While you will see a video fairly soon, the issue ended up being the green carbon brush wire. At the point where it connects to the brush holder, there was an intermittent connection.
AND the connection point to the power switch was also sketchy.
I've rebuilt that weird rear bearing and am finishing the final assembly soon.
Thanks for everyone's ideas,
Bill
vaclab
Bill,
That's great you were able to get your Kirby running again!
~Ben
Bill,
That's great you were able to get your Kirby running again!
~Ben
kirbyklekter
Well-known member
Made my morning Bill,
So glad you found the problem. I know I learned a thing or two just following your journey, Bill
So glad you found the problem. I know I learned a thing or two just following your journey, Bill
vaclab
Well-known member
Les, The Magic Kirby Pixies From Cleveland
showed me how to use a screwdriver correctly so somehow the D80 got back together again.
showed me how to use a screwdriver correctly so somehow the D80 got back together again.
Vaclab
Sweet glad you got help.
PS I love the video. There isn't many d80 videos out there and this is awesome. I can just sit and stream from phone to TV and watch vacclab on my TV.
Glad to see the d80 season is back in business. Now I can watch tv once again.
Les
Sweet glad you got help.
PS I love the video. There isn't many d80 videos out there and this is awesome. I can just sit and stream from phone to TV and watch vacclab on my TV.
Glad to see the d80 season is back in business. Now I can watch tv once again.
Les
My D80's Wiring to Foot Switch
I did not yank any of the wiring from the foot switch, just so you know. The foot switch is the same "pressure lock" type (110566) as yours, because I know my D80 was built in 1969.
When you study the first picture, all of the wiring went into all of the appropriate colored slots: all three green wires in the three G slots, all three whites in the three W slots, and both blacks in their two B slots. The third picture shows the green brush lead wire is on the top motor brush assembly, not the bottom one like on my Classic 1CR.
The black brush wire serves the bottom motor brush assembly, and its bare wire end goes into the first B slot of the foot switch.
~Ben[this post was last edited: 7/6/2020-00:09]
I did not yank any of the wiring from the foot switch, just so you know. The foot switch is the same "pressure lock" type (110566) as yours, because I know my D80 was built in 1969.
When you study the first picture, all of the wiring went into all of the appropriate colored slots: all three green wires in the three G slots, all three whites in the three W slots, and both blacks in their two B slots. The third picture shows the green brush lead wire is on the top motor brush assembly, not the bottom one like on my Classic 1CR.
The black brush wire serves the bottom motor brush assembly, and its bare wire end goes into the first B slot of the foot switch.
~Ben[this post was last edited: 7/6/2020-00:09]
VacLab
Bill,
Here's some pictures of the foot switch wiring on my parts D80 that I got yesterday from Thom (KirbyCollector)... they are exactly in the same positions as on my working D80, again, nothing altered.
Both my D80s have these wires going into these slots:
Green #1: green wire of field coil
Green #2: green wire of brush lead (top carbon brush)
Green #3: green wire of speed switch
White #1: white wire of headlight socket
White #2: white wire of speed switch
White #3: white wire of field coil
Black #1: black wire of headlight socket
Black #2: black wire of brush lead (bottom carbon brush)
~Ben
Bill,
Here's some pictures of the foot switch wiring on my parts D80 that I got yesterday from Thom (KirbyCollector)... they are exactly in the same positions as on my working D80, again, nothing altered.
Both my D80s have these wires going into these slots:
Green #1: green wire of field coil
Green #2: green wire of brush lead (top carbon brush)
Green #3: green wire of speed switch
White #1: white wire of headlight socket
White #2: white wire of speed switch
White #3: white wire of field coil
Black #1: black wire of headlight socket
Black #2: black wire of brush lead (bottom carbon brush)
~Ben
ultralux88
Well-known member
Interesting how this is exactly how I told him he should wire it... then someone told me I was wrong!
Wiring
The switch has g for ground w for white/neutral and b for power wires.
If you use a voltage meter the whites when touched with whites would show current. The grounds would show current. The power wires wouldn't. This means they don't go together.
If you put a wire but on all the whit and ran a pigtail to the switch it would work. If you did the same to the ground wires could be combined. The power wires have to be separated.
Les
The switch has g for ground w for white/neutral and b for power wires.
If you use a voltage meter the whites when touched with whites would show current. The grounds would show current. The power wires wouldn't. This means they don't go together.
If you put a wire but on all the whit and ran a pigtail to the switch it would work. If you did the same to the ground wires could be combined. The power wires have to be separated.
Les
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