DISASSEMBLY...
Separate main components first.
Remove carpet nozzle, remove bag/emptor assy, remove cord, remove handle. Then each component can be broken down as desired/needed. Below are tips for unique issues, in order as listed above:
Belt finger from front dial on carpet nozzle (Tradition).
While it looks like this will not separate without a lot of prying and damage, a simple twist of a small screwdriver makes it come apart easily. Just insert small screwdriver in metal slot shown, twist a little and pull them apart gently.
Belt finger from front dial on carpet nozzle (Omega).
There is a screw under the label that must be removed. I used a razor blade to get the corner of the label loose, then used my fingers and fingernails to SLOWLY work it off. Yes it will take a while! It came off in one piece but it is curled. I will try to use contact cement to put it back on. Replacements are available but then it would not be original...
Suction release plastic dial on carpet nozzle.
I used a 4mm socket on a nutdriver handle to compress the four internal tabs together and push out on the dial up from inside. From above I inserted a wide, flat screwdriver and pried up gently at the center at the same time. Out it came!
Belt viewing lens on carpet nozzle (Tradition).
This was damaged so I sanded it on a flat scrap of granite countertop. A cinder block or other KNOWN-flat object can be used. Start with 400, then 600 at right angle to 400, then 800 at right angle to 600, then 1000 at right angle to 800, then 2000 at right angle to 1000.
After then I put an old cotton sock over the granite chunk and applied Novus plastic polish, working the lens on the sock in the polish. Result was pretty nice - not perfect but very good. While you can buy a new lens for $3 or so, I wanted to keep as many original parts as I could on this unit. Fine automotive paint polish can be used in lieu of Novus.
Corrosion inside carpet nozzle.
If any is there, scrub off with a brass wire brush. Then wash the unit out with soapy water and dry it well.
Brushroll with sleeve bearings.
Sleeve bearings can be confirmed if turning one side turns the other side. If the bristles are good but it is just stiff to turn, it can probably be disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reused. Be sure to keep all parts in order so that they will be assembled in their ORIGINAL PLACES! Mark them somehow. Remove both screws from the ends, then the plastic caps (if present), then the round pieces over the roll itself (these may be pressed on), then work the end(s) from the rod in the center. Only one end may come off; pliers may be needed to work it loose (by twisting). It is possible you may need to file the rod at the screw hole if burrs keep the rod from slipping out. Once the rod is out check for wear at the ends where the bearings run. If wear is evident, replace the brush roll. Mine were okay so I washed the parts and dried well. Make sure you get out any internal dirt and hairballs.
Emptor bottom cover assy.
Simply grip each of the thick 'wires' with each hand and pull them out of the emptor with both arms at once. You may also use your thumbs on the emtor for leverage. Easy! Check the felt seal on the tray for damage and brush only lightly when cleaning it.
Fill tube assy from emptor (Tradition w/paper bag option).
This simply pried out of the emptor as it was an interference fit and used no sealer. I actually used my fingers to firmly push it out from below. Mark its position first. Remove this before removing bag to make it easier to remove the bag.
Bag topper.
Simply pull off carefully and over wire hanger. Easier to do when it is warm (like from the sun or a hair dryer.)
Bag hanger wire from bag.
Simply manipulate each side of bag from the wire but only one side at a time. Feel the wire inside to get an idea of the shape.
Bag from em-tor.
ROLL the bag spring off. Easy to do with two thumbs and reduces risk of damage from tools.
Tight screws (such as in fan case and wheels).
Use a WELL FITTING, fat-handled screwdriver, lots of downward force, and rock the screwdriver in the loosening direction until it breaks free. This acts a little like an impact driver that gets most of the tight ones out. If this fails, a screwdriver bit on a socket ratchet is the next best thing as one hand can put great downward pressure on it and the other hand can rock it until it breaks free. If the heads start to strip, try tightening just to break it free, then try to loosen again. Power drill-drivers can easily strip the heads out - I avoid them. An impact driver can work in many cases (with lots of downward pressure), but can also strip the heads easily. Out of four vacuums I had torn down completely in the past couple months, I only lost one wheel screw.
Hub caps from wheels (Tradition).
Use a flat screwdriver to unbend the multiple tabs on the inside of the wheel. Then use your thumbnail to pop them off.
Wheels and axles.
Remove wheels from axles before removing axles from the body to make it easier to remove the wheel screws. After removing eaxles, check for bends and straighten if needed. The rear axle on my Tradition was bent as if it was in a few stunt shows...
Power switch (on rear of motor unit).
Loosen this BEFORE removing back housing. There is a screw under the plastic trim plate and another one under the rear wheel axle. The trim plate simply pries off (pegs that go into the motor cover ).
Front height adjuster.
Beware the spring that lurks inside of the toe button during disassembly - do not let it escape! Remove all old grease from these parts with a rag dipped in solvent (like mineral spirits).
Headlight hood.
Check to see if your model uses a sheet metal spring on the attaching rod before removal - it could be obscured with dust and crud. If a spring is used, make note (or picture) on how it is installed.
My Tradition & Omega had solid attaching rods. I used a punch and a hammer to tap out the rod. Tool will be on the air outlet side of the case, driving rod out the other side. If you have the roll-pin, this procedure may need some modifications...
Headlight bumper trim on Omega.
To prevent tearing off the bumper's little pegs that protrude through the casting, I washed the headlight assy in hot water to heat up the bumper and make it more pliable. I then sprayed some soapy water under the bumper and on the pegs. Once that soaked in, they popped out without too much effort
Fan shaft (plastic fans).
This turns CLOCKWISE to loosen (same direction as the motor turns). I inserted a scratch awl (looks like an ice pick) into the shaft hole and made the tool vertical. With a rubber mallet I whacked the awl from the fan exhaust side (forcing shaft CW). The sudden shock broke it loose without having to hold the armature. Just make sure that there is an all-clear, unoccupied area for when the awl flies out of the hole. A small screwdriver can also be used. When taking the shaft and fan off, note all parts removed and where and how they went. Make they are correct as well! There should be a bushing on the shaft between the fan and motor bearing - it is often hidden under dirt. If the fan looks non-original, verify the correct parts were used! Also inspect fan for any damage. If damaged or cracked, or if grey plastic, replace it. The grey colored fans deteriorate with age, are now all past their useful life, and will crack and break very soon.
Safety switch wires (Tradition & Omega & many others).
These wires just poke into the switch, with a similar mechanism like 120V outlets and switches have. First make a good note what wires go where (switch may have letters at the holes to correspond with the colors). To release the wires, take a nail or small screwdrver that is a little bigger around than the wire and poke it in beside the wire to be removed. Pull out the wire, then the nail/screwdriver. Repeat for all wires.
Fan case.
It is most likely that the case is sealed with sealer. After removing the screws and it does not come apart easily, gently insert a thin screwdriver to try to coax it apart gently. Running a razor blade or utility knife around the perimeter can help cut it apart while it separates it. When apart, use a blade to scrape away ALL sealer so it will reassemble flat. Go over it several times to make sure ALL sealer is removed but do not damage the machined surfaces. As always, use extreme care with sharp tools!
Fan (metal).
It is easier to separate the fan case first before loosening metal fans. After case separation, I hold the motor cooling fan firmly with needlenose pliers (for Omega and newer machines) or scratch awl in armature hole by motor fan (for Classic and older machines). I grip the fan with hand, thumb, and fingers, as low as possible to avoid breaking any blades. (Remember this has reverse threads!) Then I give the fan a firm, sudden twist clockwise and it comes loose easily. Inspect for broken or severly bent blades. The one on my Omega had one blade that was bent about 3/16" at the tip. In fear of breaking or weakening an unobtainable part in attempt to straighten it, I left it as is. It ran good for 22 years this way so why risk it...
Motor brushes.
Remove motor brushes carefully as they are spring-loaded. They will try to launch themselves when the clips with wires are pulled out so hold your fingers over them when pulling the clips. New brushes on the Omega to Legend series are 3/4" long. If the old ones are 1/2" or longer, they can be reused. Mark exactly how they came out and from what side and orientation, as they must be reassembled exactly how they came out so that reseating is not needed. I put dots on them with a silver sharpie pen. One dot on brush and holder on top, two on brush and holder on bottom. Alcohol can remove the dots later if desired.
Motor assembly separation (Omega - Legend).
BEFORE separation and with no brushes, spin the shaft quickly to evaluate the bearings if not done so already. It should turn almost silently, smoothly, and it should be slightly firm, as in not loose. However, if you are tearing it down, why not just replace the bearings? Now remove four motor screws, keep armature vertical with fan end UP, and motor CLOSE to the work surface when driving motor apart. I used a rubber mallet to GENTLY tap the fan shaft (and motor assy with it) downward while holding the aluminum housing. Never use steel tools on the motor shaft to avoid thread damage, and have some thick rags under the motor to catch it. Do NOT hit the shaft hard as to not break the rear bearing holder - tap only! Small parts on the rear of the rear bearing can fall out during disassembly. The rear spring finger and bearing grease washer (see picture) are the parts I am talking about - they can stick to the rear bearing in some cases... Be careful when pulling out armature and note where each part is and where they go. If they fall out before-hand, pause and see where they go. If you do not know, consult exploded diagrams and use marks on the parts to see where they may have mated. If no grease washer is there, your model may not have used it. My Omega did not have one and parts diagram did not show it.
Front bearing retaining ring.
You need internal snap ring pliers on Classic III to Legend II to do this correctly. These have a useful place in your shop/garage so buy some to make the job easier. Mine were for external only so I had used small thin needlenose pliers to remove mine. It was not easy and I ran the risk of the ring coming loose and flying into the unknown. I bought a set of proper snap ring pliers for reassembly for just a few dollars. It can be used later in my life for other projects...
Front bearing.
Inspect for damage and spin it. It should be a little firm (as in not loose), silent and silky smooth to turn. If not, or in doubt, replace it, especially if over 10-15 years old. Grease can start hardening after 15-20 years. If you plan to keep and use the machine for many years, just replace the bearings now while it is apart. I recommend Kirby genuine parts and not the generic, cheaper low-speed skateboard bearings found online. The Kirby parts are made by Peer to Kirby's specifications for use in high-speed motor applications. Cost is only a few dollars more. Cheaper non-Kirby parts introduce risk of early failure. Your Kirby is an investment - protect it with quality parts and do the job right the first time!
Although the front bearing was not supposed to be a pressed fit for Tradition (according to service manual), it was, and a tight one at that. I supported the inner nose of the casting with a piece of PVC pipe as to not chance breaking the casting. Then I placed the largest socket I could get through the front hole of the fan case and tapped it (hard taps) out with a hammer. Even though this probably damaged the bearing, I was replacing it anyway (only reason to remove it, right?)
Rear bearing.
Inspect for damage and spin it. It should be a little firm (as in not loose), silent and silky smooth to turn. If not, or in doubt, replace it, especially if over 15 years old. Grease can start hardening after 15-20 years.
Although I know a couple of methods of getting this off the armature without a puller tool, there is a need for either a custom holding jig or two people, and the risk of damaging the armature is high. Therefore, only use a puller. I personally did not want to spend $30+ for a simple tool that I would use for only one job type that will be done only a few times in my life. Therefore after studying the available tool, I realized I could make my own tool with some scrap metal and some standard-grade 1/4" bolts & nuts, all of which I had plenty of. I will let the picture show you how I did it - it took all of 20 minutes to make the tool and at no cost. Just use steel at least 1/8" thick and make the hole/slot the exact size of the motor shaft (3/8" for the Omega through Legend II). I drilled the hole then cut it out with a hacksaw. A file tuned it right in. Mine was a bit thinner than 1/8" so there was a slight warp when under tension. The aluminum chunk I already had from a homemade steering wheel puller that I used once or maybe twice before. Make sure the bolt heads are away from or under the commutator - grind them down if needed. While there are many ways to make this homemade tool even better, mine worked great as it is and I left 'well enough' alone. A moderate pressure on the two wrenches made a satisfying 'crack' as the bearing broke loose, then light pressure pulled the bearing out. The bearing on my Tradition had 'HOOVER' stamped on the brown rubber seal so it was obviously replaced, and with a non-Kirby part at that. The second setup and use of the tool on my Omega took under 2 minutes. If the vacuum is apart this far, there is no reason not to replace the bearings if they are bad, questionable, or just more than 15 years old. The grease inside the bearings dry up with age and after 15-25 years, they run dry, get noisier, and wear faster due to insufficient lube. The bearings on this series are sealed and cannot be repacked. Just replace them and they are good for another 15-25 years.
Bag washing.
First the bag was emptied well and turned inside out. I shook, blew, and brushed as much dust & hair off as I could. It was hosed down outside to rid the most loose dust.
I then soaked it in a bucket of warm water and some woolite. I had used perhaps too much woolite the first time with my Tradition bag, as after 10 minutes the water was deep blue! In a panic I took the bag out and put it in the wash machine with lukewarm water. There was till enough detergent for it to suds up again. After first wash it was cleaner, and the machine was full of black felt remains. After rinse it was better. Paper towels removed much of the felt residue between cycles. I still noticed some dirty areas on the bag so I mixed some woolite with water and applied it with a toothbrush and brushed it in. Right after that it went back in the machine for a few more quick cycles. It was finally good enough. I did not want to chance ruining an original bag, although it is possible to redye it if needed. I hung it outside in a cool dry wind in the sun and it dried in just a couple hours. Do not use lots of heat to dry the bag.
Moral of the story - go easy on the detergent and do not soak it too long. Despite the blue water, the bag does not appear less blue on the outside. If it is, I cannot notice it. It was a little faded to begin with...
I also did two Legend II bags, an Omega bag, and a 505 replacement bag the above way and they all came out great.
My original Omega dump bag was a lot dirtier (for obvious reasons!) so it got some extra attention. I washed and rinsed it a couple times in a bucket outside. The front of the bag also had been blackened from rubbing on the aluminum handle, so I used GOOP hand cleaner and brushed it in that area with a toothbrush (while bag was still wet.) This caused no discoloration and it removed the black. I then washed and rinsed it in the washing machine. I then dried it in the sun - came out great! As always, test cleaners before use in an inconspicuous spot to see if it removes any color.
As an interesting discovery, washing the bags can reveal a geographic area where the machine was used the most. When I washed the bag from the unit I got from Virginia beach, the water was a bit reddish from their sandy loam soil. The bag from my Omega yielded grey water from our black clay soil. This proved true with the other bags I washed.
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