Kirby ds50

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forrest

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
23
Location
Alexandria,In cornfields
So I have a Kirby ds50 in my stable now and I'm looking for a couple of parts to complete her. She's a trash rescue that actually works,though! I'm looking for a new light bulb(and lens cover,if applicable)and the belt release knob on the front of the vacuum cleaner. Mine takes the triangular-shape type with the Kirby badge on it. Any help is greatly appreciated! Y'all have done a great job helping me keep my vintage vacuums humming along!
 
Nice find! I would check eBay for the lense cover, Last I knew there was a nice d50 parts machine up with original metallic trim. Can't get the link to work, but to find it, type in: Kirby Sanitronic dual 50" on ebay. It comes with an emtor with tray as well, which is worth keeping.
~K
 
sorry for all the repeated messages

I also have some correct wheels-ask me any thing I probably have it except original bag
 
I think he meant either the metal cover or the oval, I just included the part about the trim because it is hard to find in good shape.
 
might have one of them too

might have to send you the headlight cap with it still in it unless someone could tell me how to get the lens off
 
i dont want to break it

i've never taken a lens off but i do have a headlight cap with one on it let me know if your interested
 
Actually I got this for free from a junk shop-just the unit. I do have an old non electric tan and gold hose from another lux I resealed and am using for now. I am just using it as a work bench vac for now until i get an electric hose. I have a beaten model g head i will use when I find a hose.
~K
 
Wtf

The d50 logo on headlight hood can't be removed. If you do you just ruined it. You can remove the headlight hood off a d50 and put on it. I have a d50 headlight hood on one of my d80s.
If you have a machine you want to switch out headlight hood I can tell you how as it's tricky.
If you notice much heated debate on sanitronic colors.
I have a 562 sanitronic with correct matching everything. I have a sanitronic 7 with matching everything. I have a d50 and a d80 all with matching correct trim etc.
I'm not going to explain the colors mind are all original. There is various original colors that are correct for machine.
Hmc has tan ends and white cords which is original and very rare. There is a few parts machines on eBay but there thrashed and one is missing d50 Kirby logo on the hood.
Just don't take off lens on the hood it doesn't go back on.
If you look at the bottom on the model plate it usually is color of trim original to that vacuum. It's not perfect but if you match model plate you probably have correct trimmings.
Les
Did I mention don't take off hood.
 
Forrest,

I don't think they were using the clear lenses in the floodlight covers until the larger bodied models came out. I have them in the classic omega and classic III's going forward. I'm looking at a ds80 handbook and there's no mention of them yet. I would stick with the old style belt that's smooth on both sides. As much as I like the knurled belts for the later models, it's a bear trying to use them on the older #500 models. The triangular lifter you described can be damaged trying to get the newer knurled belt on and they say the belt is rough on fan bearings on older models, for what it's worth, I mention it.
 
Yes

The 1970s starting with the classic uses what mentioned above.
The wide fork was started with d80. It's also only model with wide fork and no lens assembly.
If you have a pistol grip tube handle you have the bulb headlight.
 
Kirby ds50

Thank you for the responses and help so quickly;this is what I love about this group! After looking at the ds50 again,it doesn't need a light lens after all,since they didn't come with one. All I need now is a new bulb and a belt lifter. Will a ds80 lifter work on a ds50,also?
 
Although no longer pertinent to the OP's original questions, the oval plastic 'Kirby' logo in the headlight cap can be removed if absolutely necessary. It is held in by two thin one-way plastic tabs. Simply trying to pop it out will break it - already did that to one of mine and now it needs replacement when I find a new one.
When I restored my Mom's D50 a couple years back, her light cap was really scratched up so I had to remove the oval logo. What I did was carefully scraped each tab with a sharp razor blade a little, while gently pressing on it now and then. If it did not come out I scraped it some more until a gentle pressure pushed it out.
After reinstalling it popped in and stayed by itself. However I used an old soldering iron to carefully melt some plastic and create new tabs. Some dabs of epoxy would work too and may be an easier choice.
Bottom line, it comes out with some work if you MUST have it out. However leave it in there if all possible.
 

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