Kirby DS50 -- rear bearing?

[superocd]

I acquired a DS50 a couple of days ago from an older couple. They hadn't used it in some time, so it sat in the corner of their basement for a couple of decades. It is in pretty good condition except for the fact that the bearings are a little dry.

Anyway, I pulled everything apart and discovered that the rear bearing on the armature is open on the back side. There is no shield or anything covering the bearings like there is on the side facing the commutator. I pulled it out of the motor assembly that way. Are the rear bearings "open" on older Kirbys or are they sealed and the shield is just missing? If so, what is the proper replacement shield for this bearing?

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

There is two pieces to back bearing. There is a flat washer and a wavy washer. I believe you can use a Hoover bearing that is sealed you still need wavy washer.

 

[bikerray]

Yes the bearing should be open on the back side. You can clean the bearing and put new grease in. When you pulled the bearing out of the motor housing, look inside the place where the bearing slides into and check to see if the washers are still in the housing. You might have to pull the washers out as they may be stuck in the old grease. Sometimes if you turn the housing over the washers will fall out.

When you go to put it back together make sure that the washer with the prongs goes in first with the prongs up, then put in the flat washer that will cover over the open side of the bearing.

Hope this helps.

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

The bearings were open. I'm pretty sure if you buy a new one it's sealed. The washer also can be snapped on open end. That would mean you have to get a new washer as depth is the same open or closed bearing and no real room for play if you like your field coil.
Les

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

The bearings were open. I'm pretty sure if you buy a new one it's sealed. The washer also can be snapped on open end. That would mean you have to get a new washer as depth is the same open or closed bearing and no real room for play if you like your field coil.
Les

 

[kirbyclassiciii]

superocd

If you need a new rear bearing, ask for part no. 1155 from wherever Kirby vacuum parts are available nearest you.

~Ben

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

I would take old bearing clean off and spray WD-40 and get bearing moving then grease it put it back on. If you don't pull bearing you don't have to reinstall which is by far the labor intensive job.
Now you have all the info to do as you choose.
Les

 

[superocd]

Come to think of it...

I did see something in the rear of the motor housing. Those might be the washers. I will have to confirm tomorrow.

I haven't decided if I want to repack or replace the rear bearing. I ordered the front bearing/plate assembly since there was some roughness in the front bearing. The entire plate/bearing assembly wasn't much more in cost than just the bearing, so I'm going to replace it as a unit. I think I may buy a new rear bearing, since by the time I buy the puller and some Polyrex EM grease, it won't be that much more to buy just the puller and the new bearing, since I will need a puller regardless of whether I repack or install a new bearing.

If I decide to repack, how do I get those washers back onto the face of the bearing, or do they stay inside of the bearing cavity in the motor housing since they may possibly be back there?

If I buy a new 1155 rear bearing, do I need to keep those washers since the 1155 bearing appears to be sealed on both ends? Or is it just a matter of pulling off the old bearing and tapping the new one onto the armature and sliding the armature assembly into the motor housing without those two washers?

I've never done a bearing job on a Kirby. All three Kirbys thus far has had excellent bearings, even the Heritage II Legend from 1988 (my Royal, from the same year, has excellent bearings too).

Thanks for all of your help!

 

[texaskirbyguy]

I would not repack and reuse unless you know the rough number of hours on the motor.
Pull off with puller tool (I made one) and tap new one on with deep socket that fits over the inner race.
The new bearing has the shields but since they are recessed some, I put the flat washer and spring finger ring in same original places to prevent additional play. They are required.
Put bearing on shaft, finger and washer into motor housing, drop in armature and bearing, then top cover.
Make sure to replace the front bearing also for piece of mind.

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

You can't use any washer it has to be the correct one. If you don't the grease washer or wavy washer rotates and if it's wrong size of washer it could restict the wavy washer and rotation of the armature.
If you grease open bearing you leave it open. You don't have to pop of ring. It's up to you. But like I said use the correct washers. I didn't once and it tore up field could pretty good.
Les

 

[broomvac]

No need to buy or use a puller if you repack the original. You've done all the hard work already: gaining access to the bearing and opening up at least one side. For on-armature repacks, I first remove the shield facing away from the armature (already done in your case) and protect the armature with some paper prior to spraying the bearing. I use QD Contact Cleaner by CRC because it is a great degreaser while claiming to be safe for electrical contacts and plastics. As a plus, it leaves no residue and can be found at Home Depot.

Once the bearing is cleaned out, it will spin with ease. If it doesn't have perceptible play or spalling, you should be good for a simple repack with Polyrex EM. After that, just put everything back in exactly as you took it out. If you're up for it, you should consider doing the same treatment to the front bearing. I believe on your DS50, you could keep the front bearing installed in the plate while you do the same procedure, but I'm not positive about that one.

I've had great luck repacking bearings. Bearings are actually pretty robust. Grease and seals, not nearly so much. As you discovered, the volatile components of grease vaporize over time and leave behind undesirable goo. Thankfully, the newer greases are more stable.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-El...vdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028554&h

 

[kirbyclassiciii]

superocd

Here, too, are the other rear bearing parts you need:
1156 - rear bearing finger spring (505/1CR)
1157 - rear bearing grease retainer washer (505/1CR)

~Ben

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

Yes the bearing doesn't need removed it's in bearing plate. If u take off lower bearing a socket and hammer or rubber mallet will put back into place. Bearing pullers smash the shiz out of your hand. I only got new bearing in d80 since bearing plate came with new bearing built in.
If you clean and lubricate bearing I don't see any difference in new bearings. It's just added cost that you don't have to pay for. It's not going to run any different with cleaned up bearing and new bearings. Save your money. Once you do so many vacuums those bearings cost more than most vacuums I've bought. Maximize savings and time. Next time you will know how to grease bearings. You can pop bearing out of the bearing plate. Bottom side the side facing armature around the bearing it has 2 or 3 tabs that put a screw driver and tap the go in and you can pop out bearing. If you put back in on bearing plate top side those same tabs just tap those back out. The way you know it's done is bearing spins and is held in place. If it's not spinning the bearing isn't all the way in and needs tapped into bearing plate more. If it falls out the tabs need to be hit out a little further.
Les

 

[bikerray]

If you do need new bearings and want to get them from a local bearing shop
the front is an 87500 and should cost about $7
the rear is an 87007 and should cost about $13.50