liddykitty
Lydia,
Original field, too... they match! This field was manufactured in September 1953.
~Ben
Lydia,
Original field, too... they match! This field was manufactured in September 1953.
~Ben
kirby 514 repair advice
- Thread starter liddykitty
- Start date
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texaskirbyguy
Well-known member
Wow - you are digging in deep!
115/60 is 115 volt, 60 Hz power input.
Nice to see an original matched motor set.
Since it is apart this far, time for a complete restoration and polish, whacha think?
)
115/60 is 115 volt, 60 Hz power input.
Nice to see an original matched motor set.
Since it is apart this far, time for a complete restoration and polish, whacha think?
)
Spray
I looked at the field and coil and they look good. If you have a pressure washer or a hose with a higher pressure nozzle. If you spray motor housing armature and field with degreaser and let it sit for a while. Then spray everything down and most the buildup should be taken care of.
I'd use a paper towel or rag to wipe it down and let it sit dry. If you use sandpaper you can use it on the field and the motor except on commuter the bottom copper part of armature. It will help remove any rust etc.
I have seen people use a clear sealant on field and armature but I'm not aware of exactly which one works.
If you do what I mentioned and clean and grease your bearings your 66 year old vacuum should run quite well.
Les
I looked at the field and coil and they look good. If you have a pressure washer or a hose with a higher pressure nozzle. If you spray motor housing armature and field with degreaser and let it sit for a while. Then spray everything down and most the buildup should be taken care of.
I'd use a paper towel or rag to wipe it down and let it sit dry. If you use sandpaper you can use it on the field and the motor except on commuter the bottom copper part of armature. It will help remove any rust etc.
I have seen people use a clear sealant on field and armature but I'm not aware of exactly which one works.
If you do what I mentioned and clean and grease your bearings your 66 year old vacuum should run quite well.
Les
liddykitty
Member
texaskirbyguy & KirbyClassicIII:
i’ve been told i can’t leave well enough alone lol. it is pretty cool that the internals are all original, i wasent expecting it. unfortunately as much as i would absolutely love to see it all polished up, i lack the means and funds, although i suppose i could hand polish it a bit.
Lesinutah: it has quite a smell to it, i’m not sure... i suppose i could take them to the car wash, it might be worth a try. what is the sealant used for? that’s probably a silly question i know, but like i said i’m not too good with electric motors.
i’ve been told i can’t leave well enough alone lol. it is pretty cool that the internals are all original, i wasent expecting it. unfortunately as much as i would absolutely love to see it all polished up, i lack the means and funds, although i suppose i could hand polish it a bit.
Lesinutah: it has quite a smell to it, i’m not sure... i suppose i could take them to the car wash, it might be worth a try. what is the sealant used for? that’s probably a silly question i know, but like i said i’m not too good with electric motors.
texaskirbyguy
Well-known member
So does it have a nasty burned electrical smell? If so it is shot. The plastic band at the bottom of the field looks to have melted and the internal cooling fan looks to have been blowing the blobs of molten material.
I found the parts unit I had - it was the box on top of all places.
After disassembly it looks like motor we need, size and shape-wise.
After then I became baffled...
The part number of the rotor is a cryptic 5BA45 BD12.
This vacuum unit has a date of 7-1962 written under it so it must be a rebuild. Model plate is missing, but is a toggle switch unit. Bearing plate is very old with the rivets in it, slotted screws holding it on. Bearings are surprisingly good.
Unit never had a fan on it. Motor ran great at 1.5A, no load. I wanted to test it with a fan under load, but could not..........
Any fan I tried would tighten down into the bearing plate and screws. I tried different bearing plate (newer), old fans, new fans, metal and plastic -- same issue. I removed the screws and it tightened into the plate.
This units shaft is shorter and has longer threads, so not sure what gives.
My 505 with 3A motor has a later metal fan on it, so I know it should work.
After an hour, I ran out of time and had to give up for the day.
The field was caked in dirt like my 505 was so could not see much in there.
At this point it does not look like this unit will fix the OP's Kirby. This motor is too questionable.
I do have a semi-complete 514 unit that I had hoped to restore some day. I will take a look at this over the weekend to see if I can learn anything else.
I found the parts unit I had - it was the box on top of all places.
After disassembly it looks like motor we need, size and shape-wise.
After then I became baffled...
The part number of the rotor is a cryptic 5BA45 BD12.
This vacuum unit has a date of 7-1962 written under it so it must be a rebuild. Model plate is missing, but is a toggle switch unit. Bearing plate is very old with the rivets in it, slotted screws holding it on. Bearings are surprisingly good.
Unit never had a fan on it. Motor ran great at 1.5A, no load. I wanted to test it with a fan under load, but could not..........
Any fan I tried would tighten down into the bearing plate and screws. I tried different bearing plate (newer), old fans, new fans, metal and plastic -- same issue. I removed the screws and it tightened into the plate.
This units shaft is shorter and has longer threads, so not sure what gives.
My 505 with 3A motor has a later metal fan on it, so I know it should work.
After an hour, I ran out of time and had to give up for the day.
The field was caked in dirt like my 505 was so could not see much in there.
At this point it does not look like this unit will fix the OP's Kirby. This motor is too questionable.
I do have a semi-complete 514 unit that I had hoped to restore some day. I will take a look at this over the weekend to see if I can learn anything else.
liddykitty
Member
yes, it smells like magic smoke, not horribly so, but it’s definitely noticeable. there are many little blobs on the front of the field, the band appears to be metal with cloth under it, i didn’t see any plastic. the more i look at it the more i’m convinced the field isn’t happy. i noticed my bearing plate is different than the one in your pics, mine appears to be a 1 piece unit of pressed metal with no rivets.
thank you for all your help, it’s very kind of you to go to all this effort. i really appreciate it.
thank you for all your help, it’s very kind of you to go to all this effort. i really appreciate it.
Texaskirbyguy
There is 2 4 amp motors. There is 513 514 515 and then 516-sanitronic 7. The motor you have is the newer version. The vacuum would need motor and the field. The 514 on the fan it's a little deeper on the fan.
Measure the length of the armature and fan have her measure hers and compare to make sure it would fit.
Les
There is 2 4 amp motors. There is 513 514 515 and then 516-sanitronic 7. The motor you have is the newer version. The vacuum would need motor and the field. The 514 on the fan it's a little deeper on the fan.
Measure the length of the armature and fan have her measure hers and compare to make sure it would fit.
Les
human
Well-known member
Make it gleam!!!
Liddy wrote:
as much as i would absolutely love to see it all polished up, i lack the means and funds, although i suppose i could hand polish it a bit.
I reply:
Polishing a Kirby isn't that hard and it's not that expensive but it's very rewarding. If you're a visual learner, there are tons of YouTube videos that will show you techniques for sanding out the scratches and polishing it up. You can get a polishing wheel for your electric drill for about $10-$15 at Home Depot or Lowes. Use some Mother's Mag Wheel polish and with a little persistence, you'll have it shined in no time. I did a Heritage 1HD last spring, spent maybe three hours on it and it didn't look like the same machine when I got through. If the metal is heavily oxidized, you might want to use some Barkeeper's Friend to start out. It'll knock off that oxidation in seconds. Once you've got the metal to a satiny sheen with Barkeeper's, hit it with the Mother's until it gleams, then finish it off with a good paste wax to retard further oxidation.
Liddy wrote:
as much as i would absolutely love to see it all polished up, i lack the means and funds, although i suppose i could hand polish it a bit.
I reply:
Polishing a Kirby isn't that hard and it's not that expensive but it's very rewarding. If you're a visual learner, there are tons of YouTube videos that will show you techniques for sanding out the scratches and polishing it up. You can get a polishing wheel for your electric drill for about $10-$15 at Home Depot or Lowes. Use some Mother's Mag Wheel polish and with a little persistence, you'll have it shined in no time. I did a Heritage 1HD last spring, spent maybe three hours on it and it didn't look like the same machine when I got through. If the metal is heavily oxidized, you might want to use some Barkeeper's Friend to start out. It'll knock off that oxidation in seconds. Once you've got the metal to a satiny sheen with Barkeeper's, hit it with the Mother's until it gleams, then finish it off with a good paste wax to retard further oxidation.
texaskirbyguy
Well-known member
Okay, things are looking up...
One of Ben's other posts in a different thread mentioned a similar part number as mine, which got me researching more.
He said there are 'west' motors with the familiar Kirby style part number, and 'east' with the style I found in my unit. (Different manufacturer perhaps? different country of origin?)
I also found a post of an interchange guide Ben had posted and it grouped my armature with the OP's.
I will excavate the field out this weekend and check it. If it has a matching part number, I will say these will interchange.
One good question would be is this a reliable motor I have? I do not see many of the 'east' part numbers...
One of Ben's other posts in a different thread mentioned a similar part number as mine, which got me researching more.
He said there are 'west' motors with the familiar Kirby style part number, and 'east' with the style I found in my unit. (Different manufacturer perhaps? different country of origin?)
I also found a post of an interchange guide Ben had posted and it grouped my armature with the OP's.
I will excavate the field out this weekend and check it. If it has a matching part number, I will say these will interchange.
One good question would be is this a reliable motor I have? I do not see many of the 'east' part numbers...
liddykitty
Member
i ment polishing the case, head, exterior in general. i don’t have much in the way of power tools, but i do keep some polishes and rubbing compounds around for jewelry and use around the house. my head has some deep gouges that would need sanding, and then i would likely end up polishing the body by hand. not that thats difficult or anything, just rather time consuming on something this size.
texaskirbyguy:
that’s a nice find, i was sure there would have been some interchangeability over the years, considering how many other parts are swapable between models, but this takes all the guesswork out of it.
texaskirbyguy:
that’s a nice find, i was sure there would have been some interchangeability over the years, considering how many other parts are swapable between models, but this takes all the guesswork out of it.
texaskirbyguy
Well-known member
So with a cold drink, good music, and a mildly nice summer evening (first time I had ever said 'nice summer evening'?) I excavated the field coil out of this parts unit.
It started looking like an incinerated nightmare, but all of that crud brushed out with dry brushes - much easier than I expected. It was dust, dirt, and carpet fibres, like from wool rugs. This filthiness was just like my 505 and cleaned away just as good...
I did not find a part number on the field but did not look extremely close - I will look tomorrow. Overall it looks nice - no signs of overheating. It smells of old shellac, but no acrid burned smell.
I would be willing to try this motor set out in the 514.
As for polishing, Mothers mag and aluminum polish is one of the best all-around, easy to find polishes that works great by hand, or with power tools. If you have other polishes around the house, give them a try - they just might do well. I would not bother with the deep scratches - consider them battle scars, or beauty marks! Only you know how much you want it to shine!)
It started looking like an incinerated nightmare, but all of that crud brushed out with dry brushes - much easier than I expected. It was dust, dirt, and carpet fibres, like from wool rugs. This filthiness was just like my 505 and cleaned away just as good...
I did not find a part number on the field but did not look extremely close - I will look tomorrow. Overall it looks nice - no signs of overheating. It smells of old shellac, but no acrid burned smell.
I would be willing to try this motor set out in the 514.
As for polishing, Mothers mag and aluminum polish is one of the best all-around, easy to find polishes that works great by hand, or with power tools. If you have other polishes around the house, give them a try - they just might do well. I would not bother with the deep scratches - consider them battle scars, or beauty marks! Only you know how much you want it to shine!
)Rob
That's the right field.
The easiest way to polish a Kirby is to use steel wool. You get 0000 grade steel wool. I uploaded the pic from Walmart.com it's $3.78.
The second pic is mothers mag. Its $5-$7 at Walmart.
You simply go over metal with the steel wool. If you have scratches it usually can get them out. I'd say twenty minutes to half hour at most it would probably get the metal in great shape. Use a cloth(I use micro fiber towels Rob uses Viva paper towels) with mothers mag and maybe 10-15 minutes it will shine just like the 510 in my picture.
The steel wool is found in paint section next to sand paper. The mothers mag is in car washing waxing area.
Its much much easier to polish a Kirby than to take out the motor . Dish soap is probably the best degreaser. If you fill up a small bucket with water and put a little dish soap in it. You basically wash the motor housing and motor.
If you fill a big bucket the motor and everything else can actually be soaked in the water. You can use a regular hose with a simple sprayer if your not into scrubbing everything off.
Les
That's the right field.
The easiest way to polish a Kirby is to use steel wool. You get 0000 grade steel wool. I uploaded the pic from Walmart.com it's $3.78.
The second pic is mothers mag. Its $5-$7 at Walmart.
You simply go over metal with the steel wool. If you have scratches it usually can get them out. I'd say twenty minutes to half hour at most it would probably get the metal in great shape. Use a cloth(I use micro fiber towels Rob uses Viva paper towels) with mothers mag and maybe 10-15 minutes it will shine just like the 510 in my picture.
The steel wool is found in paint section next to sand paper. The mothers mag is in car washing waxing area.
Its much much easier to polish a Kirby than to take out the motor . Dish soap is probably the best degreaser. If you fill up a small bucket with water and put a little dish soap in it. You basically wash the motor housing and motor.
If you fill a big bucket the motor and everything else can actually be soaked in the water. You can use a regular hose with a simple sprayer if your not into scrubbing everything off.
Les
liddykitty
Lydia,
When re-assembling your motor, pay attention to the exact lengths of the two main field leads (the two that you feed the 1/4 dia. x 3" long insulation tubing over), and those for the headlight socket/wire. One will be long and the other short.
As this is a model 514, it (and also models 513 and 515) has the step-type foot switch button and therefore the procedure to hook up the live and neutral wires of the field coil and headlight socket to the foot switch base will be the same as for models 516-Sanitronic VII.
~Ben
Lydia,
When re-assembling your motor, pay attention to the exact lengths of the two main field leads (the two that you feed the 1/4 dia. x 3" long insulation tubing over), and those for the headlight socket/wire. One will be long and the other short.
As this is a model 514, it (and also models 513 and 515) has the step-type foot switch button and therefore the procedure to hook up the live and neutral wires of the field coil and headlight socket to the foot switch base will be the same as for models 516-Sanitronic VII.
~Ben
vacuser
Well-known member
liddykitty(texas)
i have a nice D-50 or a D-80 or an older model i could send you if you are interested.let me know how your repair goes.it might be nice to have a real nice spare for your home.just let me know.as you can see my cat likes her kirby also. lol !
i have a nice D-50 or a D-80 or an older model i could send you if you are interested.let me know how your repair goes.it might be nice to have a real nice spare for your home.just let me know.as you can see my cat likes her kirby also. lol !
liddykitty
Member
awww that’s cute! at the moment i’m in the process of getting parts, but if shif i just might, my house is tiny so as nice as a spare sounds, i really just lack the room. i got to say i love that D-50 though.
vacuser
Well-known member
liddykitty
well it's here for you if you want it.just keep me informed.thanks for the reply.i think you would make a good home for it.i'm sure there's a closet space or corner somewhere it could reside.mine sets out in the living room just waiting to gobble up some dirt.
well it's here for you if you want it.just keep me informed.thanks for the reply.i think you would make a good home for it.i'm sure there's a closet space or corner somewhere it could reside.mine sets out in the living room just waiting to gobble up some dirt.
kirbyklekter
Well-known member
@ Les,
I've never heard of a ds59 or a ds650. Can you tell me where they place in the Kirby lineup? I also thought the lighted logo on the hood was on the 562,no?
@liddykitty I hope you are able to get your 514 back up and running without too much hassle, they sure are sweet little machines! Billy
I've never heard of a ds59 or a ds650. Can you tell me where they place in the Kirby lineup? I also thought the lighted logo on the hood was on the 562,no?
@liddykitty I hope you are able to get your 514 back up and running without too much hassle, they sure are sweet little machines! Billy
vacuser
Well-known member
DS-50 wrong picture
i set the wrong unit out for the DS-50 picture. that's my sanitronic VII.here's the right one.
i set the wrong unit out for the DS-50 picture. that's my sanitronic VII.here's the right one.
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