I have found (at Goodwill) a Kirby 514 with the original wheels, bag, and 6 bladed fan. Unfortunately, the motor has really bad bearings. I tried turning it on, and it sounded like a Dyson, only much more shrill. I have no experience taking apart the pre 1956 Kirbys. If someone who knows the proper way to fix this, I would greatly appreciate it. I would like to keep this vacuum running as long as possible.
Kirby 514 Motor Bearings
- Thread starter sonnyndad
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james
Well-known member
What a great find, you'll have to post some pics, I'd love to see it.
These are fairly easy to take apart really.
First remove the rug nozzle, cord, handle and emtor/ bag etc.
So you are left with just the power plant, you could remove the front axle assembly and rear wheels also if you wanted. I'd advise this so not to damage those original rubber wheels.
I'm doing this from memory so hopefully I can remember everything.
First remove the 2 black large screws from the motor unit body, these hold the brushes in, take note which way they come out. And don't let them ping out.
There are 2 screws ontop of the headlight unit, remove these and remove the headlight casing. The bulb socket either unclips or unscrews, can't remember which on a 514.
Remove the safety switch casing, 4 screws, different lengths so remember which goes where. Also pay attention to the gubbins inside. A card insulation plate, a spring, and a Bakelite contact lever, also the end of the conduit wire from the on/ off switch. Carefully remove the case so you can see how it all goes together inside.
Remove it all and let the conduit hang from the on/ off switch.
Remove the fan case, 4 screws, accessed from the rear of the case.
Next the fan, its a right hand thread so you turn it clockwise if you are facing it. You need to jam the armature, use a fan locking tool through the cooling vents under the machine. The armature has a small hole in it for this purpose. Or an ice pick? So I hear other USA guys say?
Or, if you are VERY carefully, and I wouldn't recommend, you can jam the armature using a thin screwdriver into the cooling fan inside the motor unit, again through the cooling vents.
After the fan is removed, the front bearing plate is next, again 4 screws, and it pulls off.
The armature should then be pulled out, and there is a plain washer and a strange looking spring washer under the rear bearing. Take note of the way the spring washer is installed.
You can re-grease the rear bearing, clean it out first with paraffin or white spirit etc. I can't remember if the front bearing can be re-packed? Maybe someone else can shed light on this.
I know you can still buy the front bearing plate with bearing, and I assume, rear bearing also.
Obviously you could go further and remove the on/ off switch and field coils etc if you so wished, good luck, and I hope this helps you out.
These are fairly easy to take apart really.
First remove the rug nozzle, cord, handle and emtor/ bag etc.
So you are left with just the power plant, you could remove the front axle assembly and rear wheels also if you wanted. I'd advise this so not to damage those original rubber wheels.
I'm doing this from memory so hopefully I can remember everything.
First remove the 2 black large screws from the motor unit body, these hold the brushes in, take note which way they come out. And don't let them ping out.
There are 2 screws ontop of the headlight unit, remove these and remove the headlight casing. The bulb socket either unclips or unscrews, can't remember which on a 514.
Remove the safety switch casing, 4 screws, different lengths so remember which goes where. Also pay attention to the gubbins inside. A card insulation plate, a spring, and a Bakelite contact lever, also the end of the conduit wire from the on/ off switch. Carefully remove the case so you can see how it all goes together inside.
Remove it all and let the conduit hang from the on/ off switch.
Remove the fan case, 4 screws, accessed from the rear of the case.
Next the fan, its a right hand thread so you turn it clockwise if you are facing it. You need to jam the armature, use a fan locking tool through the cooling vents under the machine. The armature has a small hole in it for this purpose. Or an ice pick? So I hear other USA guys say?
Or, if you are VERY carefully, and I wouldn't recommend, you can jam the armature using a thin screwdriver into the cooling fan inside the motor unit, again through the cooling vents.
After the fan is removed, the front bearing plate is next, again 4 screws, and it pulls off.
The armature should then be pulled out, and there is a plain washer and a strange looking spring washer under the rear bearing. Take note of the way the spring washer is installed.
You can re-grease the rear bearing, clean it out first with paraffin or white spirit etc. I can't remember if the front bearing can be re-packed? Maybe someone else can shed light on this.
I know you can still buy the front bearing plate with bearing, and I assume, rear bearing also.
Obviously you could go further and remove the on/ off switch and field coils etc if you so wished, good luck, and I hope this helps you out.
Replacement bearings should be part #s 1155 (rear) and 1160 (front).
~Ben
~Ben
James
Thank you! You saved my 514! I took it apart just like you said, cleaned all the crap out of the motor, then I cleaned out the bearings. We went to Auto Zone and bought a tube of White Lithium Grease (my dad says this is the best kind) and packed it into the front and rear bearings. I reassembled it and was astonished how good it sounded!
Thank you! You saved my 514! I took it apart just like you said, cleaned all the crap out of the motor, then I cleaned out the bearings. We went to Auto Zone and bought a tube of White Lithium Grease (my dad says this is the best kind) and packed it into the front and rear bearings. I reassembled it and was astonished how good it sounded!
james
Well-known member
Glad to hear my guide worked for you, and very pleased you got it sounding healthy again
Happy to help
Happy to help
Slight Clicking
There is one noise that has manifested itself. When I take the brushes out, the motor spins smoothly and quietly. But when I run the motor with the brushes in, there is a fast, but quiet clicking from the commutator. Could this mean bad brushes or a bad commutator? This has gotten louder and more noticable the more the machine is used.
There is one noise that has manifested itself. When I take the brushes out, the motor spins smoothly and quietly. But when I run the motor with the brushes in, there is a fast, but quiet clicking from the commutator. Could this mean bad brushes or a bad commutator? This has gotten louder and more noticable the more the machine is used.
james
Well-known member
Did you put the brushes back in EXACTLY the same way you removed them?
I don't think they wear evenly, so the face is asymmetrical. This is noticeable when the motor is turned backwards you can hear the clicking noise as the segments of the commutator catch on the brushes, but turn it the correct way and the sound should not be there.
So changing the brushes would probably solve the problem, or see if the run in/ used brushes are not in the correct way.
Brushes can sometimes wear with a kind of tail on the trailing edge and this is what catches in the gaps between segments I believe, and causes the noise.
Hope this helps if you see what I mean.
I don't think they wear evenly, so the face is asymmetrical. This is noticeable when the motor is turned backwards you can hear the clicking noise as the segments of the commutator catch on the brushes, but turn it the correct way and the sound should not be there.
So changing the brushes would probably solve the problem, or see if the run in/ used brushes are not in the correct way.
Brushes can sometimes wear with a kind of tail on the trailing edge and this is what catches in the gaps between segments I believe, and causes the noise.
Hope this helps if you see what I mean.
I made absoluteley CERTAIN that the Brushes are in the same way. I know what clicking you are talking about, and it is NOT that. It is a much quieter kind of "hum-click". Besides that, when I would spin the motor shaft the CORRECT way, BEFORE the rebuild, it would make the same noise. I am going the buy a new set of Brushes from Kirby Needs.com.
David,
The exact parts you need are (two of each):
1072S - commutator brush holder section
1180 - commutator carbon brush (110/120 volt) (use 118067A)
1181 - commutator brush cap
~Ben
The exact parts you need are (two of each):
1072S - commutator brush holder section
1180 - commutator carbon brush (110/120 volt) (use 118067A)
1181 - commutator brush cap
~Ben
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