Yep that's what people are paying now. The more that get thrown away the little are left to buy.
There was a collector here some years ago that had just the base unit for one (no handle or bag). It sold for $50 or maybe it was $80 - something like that. It was sold within a day.
I think I'll go ahead and call a motor repair shop in Alexandria, VA. It's called Alexandria Armature Works. I did research and found out on their website that they repair and rewind all sizes of electric motors, maybe even small electric motors, so I think? Don't know for sure but I will give them a call today at some time later on and see if they repair, rewind armatures and fields for small electric motors, like for old vacuum cleaners. Note, My Kirby 2C runs on 110 volts AC or DC and I will tell them that. Here is a Link to their website:
Does anyone think that another potential reason, or maybe the reason the entire time, as to why my Kirby 2C motor is running so slow is because of bad front and rear bearings? If so, then Which bearing could be causing the problem, the front bearing, the rear bearing or both? I'm Not sure?
From Liam
if the bearings are bad enough to slow the motor down, the motor will draw more amperage than usual trying to get up to speed. This will cause the motor to heat up and eventually get so hot things start burning up like the wiring.
You can develop shorts when the insulation is damaged on the wiring like on your armature/field harness.
I think you can open up the bearings on those older Kirby's and inspect their condition, they can be cleaned and repacked if in good shape.
If you have removed the carbon brushes, they need to go back the same way they came out. They have a wear grain on the end that rides against the armature in the direction it rotates.
With the Kirby UNPLUGGED and the brushes pulled back off the armature you can rotate the armature by hand and listen for scratchy grumbly noises from the bearings. If it spins freely and coasts to a stop your good. Check the tension on the carbon brushes, they need to make good even contact with the armature.
Hope this helps some. Have it looked at first by a pro before trying to run it again.
Hello again, Quick Question. Is there any Kirby vacuum service center in the MD, PA, VA or the Ohio area that has parts to pre war Kirby Vacuums? I'm not sure and would love to know. Also, Is there a vacuum store in these areas that I mentioned, that may have parts for pre-war Kirby Vacuums. I Am Desperate To Find a Kirby Model 2C Armature!
From Liam
Another Question, I would also love to know If there is a place that rewinds armatures and fields for specifically vacuum cleaners? Does the Kirby Company rebuild and rewind Kirby armatures and fields? I Am Not Sure? If Someone says yes, I will call them.
From Liam
But I do have an extra commutator and rotator for a Model 4C if this will help... I'm not a Kirby Head who knows all the ins and out of all the early machines...so I don't know if they will work for you or not, but if they will, I will gladly sell them to you. Someone here with more knowledge may know!
4hy is very similar to 505. The vacuette, sanitation system, 1c 2c have smaller motor housings and small emtors.
I'd be interested in the armature if possible.
I posted a vacuette electric armature with the coil like the one the 4c has.
To Lesinutah, Did you actually use a 4C armature in a vacuette electric? If so Then will a 4C armature actually fit and work in my Kirby Model 2C? If not Does anyone out there have a 2C or 1C Armature and Field that they be willing to sell to me? The thing is I tried to fit a 510 armature in my 2C but the main body of the armature was too big. 510 armatures only fit and will work in the Kirby model 3C and 4C through the Kirby model 512. The reason, different motor housing and field for 3C through 512, though they still run at 3 amps of electricity.
From Liam
To Lesinutah, Do you have a 1C or 2C armature available for me? If so I will use it in my 2C. To Kyle, You say you have a 4C armature and field available for me. I would love for you to sell those parts to me for a fair price. Ebay will work for me. I plan on getting a 505 one day soon. Also, Do you Have factory original headlight hood trim and a bumper for a Kirby model 505 or 4C? That will work perfectly and look perfectly on my Kirby model 2C. I will take any early Kirby motor parts etc. because you never know when I will need to use them. Early prewar Kirby parts are becoming more and more rare to find and I would love to have them.
Thanks From Liam
Read reply 17 to this thread.
I'm finishing up my 505 with the armature pictured which fits 3c to 515 kirbys. The coil is from my vacuette electric which I am polishing up. The parts are for those vacuums. I was showing you that the 3c to 5165 armature and the vacuette thru 2c coil weren't compatible.
Does anyone out there have a spare Kirby model 1C motor unit, which runs good. If so, I would like to buy it so I can use its parts to repair my Kirby 2C, which needs its armature replaced and possibly its field replaced. Any answers, please let me know some time soon.
Thanks From Liam
I called a Kirby service center in Pasadena MD and two people there said they would need to look for me. They don't know if they have parts that old, but they will certainly look for me. One guy, goes by Jerimiah Johnson, you may have heard of him, he's now a new friend of mine, said he will need to look in an old barn of his, that filled to the brim with vintage and antique vacuum cleaners. Hope all goes well.
From Liam
Does anyone out there have a Kirby model 1C motor unit? I would really like to use an armature from a Kirby 1C motor unit for my Kirby Model 2C, so that I can get it repaired and running good again. That would solve this whole problem once and for all.
Thanks From Liam
I once had the same problem with a Model 508 that i opened up and cleaned. I swopped the connections of the brushes around and the motor was spinning the wrong way around. It also slowed down the motor.
To Vaclover. Which way should the field wiring to the carbon brush holders go? Which Field wire goes to what carbon brush holder? I want to know. All I can say is that I had the carbon brush wiring connected like this, The top field coil wire goes to the left carbon brush holder and the bottom field coil wire goes to the right carbon brush holder. Even though I had the wiring connected like that, the Motor still ran very slow when I tested the vacuum. Maybe I should switch the connections to the carbon brush holders around, instead of having them connected like that. I'll go ahead and try it, see if that fixes the problem.
From Liam
I did take a look at the armature just now and the windings to the commutator seem to look ok, just a little blackened, I hope the armature is still in perfect working condition. I also did switch the carbon brush wiring connections around, I'll see if that fixes the problem. If someone can give me a clear answer as to why my Kirby 2C motor is running so slow, that would be great. Is it the wiring to the carbon brush holders or is it directly the armatures fault? Vaclover mentioned that he had a 508 where he connected the wiring to the carbon brush holders in the wrong way and when he tested the motor, when he reassembled it, it ran very slow.
From Liam
I think the only way to get a clear answer would be to take it someone with the equipment to properly test the parts, or to contact the Kirby company. They will still rebuild that machine, I've even seen factory rebuilt 1Cs.
I agree, yes sending the vacuum off to Kirby to be rebuilt would certainly be a option. But, Liam would still have to gather all the correct trim & parts to make it look factory original afterwards. Plus, since Kirby has recently started discontinuing certain electrical parts for the Classic/Heritage series Kirby's, the question remains how long will the rebuild department still be able to work on & rebuild these older Kirby's? I am actually surprised that Right Lane Industries hasn't scrapped it. It's definitelyonly a matter of time though
Correct. My thought was, like a few members have done before, he could take the original trim off before sending it in and reattach afterward. It'd be worth a shot just to call and see if they will accept such an old machine into the rebuild program nowadays.