SAVE ME! This will need a top to bottom overhaul, of course
I wouldn't scrap it until thoroughly investigated and diagnosed. The outside carcass looks to be in nice clean shape other than the crack damage. And look! it has an unbroken clip tab for the on-board transforming upholstery nozzle/dusting brush, too!
Wands - slide or force the sliding plastic button on the plastic sheath back as far as it will go. Then, after cleaning the metal wand inside with steel wool, slide in onto the metal wand inside the sheath. It should lock to the other wand with a click. The sheath's slider is used to lift the button spring and is sometimes deformed or deforms the spring. These wands were intended to be assembled once and left. If you are having trouble connecting them then the thing to do is remove the metal wand from inside the sheath and adjust and assemble before placing the sheath back on. Probably a good idea anyway to remove the inner wand from the sheath first to clean up it's mating end and make corrections to the locking button spring.
The cracked shell casing by the front caster does not seem to have affected the bag door hinge so that's fine for now.
The cracks across the motor cover could benefit from being removed and skillfully crazyglued and reinforced to close them up for a smoother appearance. Not like yer gonna spend much time looking at the rear end or underneath between the front skids. LOL It's just a cap covering the cordwinder reel and supports nothing. The blower/hose port is on the top anyway.
The hose - well, no different tha the 88 hose my dad wrapped in red plastic bags & clear packing tape. These braided hoses are notorious for leaking and for having their weave strips loop out. But they are perfect for the latex treatment. You should be able to unwrap all that gummy duct tape - keep the lighter fluid close by to clean off adhesive as you go - and may find a hose that doesn't leak as badly as that allover wrap indicates. Likely the husband was forestalling further developing leakage by doing the whole damn thing. If you're lucky you'll probably find the original blue & gray matching hose under there - a final detailing cleanup of adhesive with lighter fluid will bring it back cosmetically before latexing.
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Does it carry electricity from end to end as it should? Do you have another AP or later Lux to test that with? or short pin cords to connect to some other vacuum? The hose handle contacts are easy to access and clean or re-align as necessary. If the hose turns out to be toast after all that, it is a fairly common hose in different colours and I may have one around here.
Does the PN motor run connected to some other vacuum pin cord?
Other than the two bad cracks, which don't affect performance, I'd say it well worth a few hours of Spa Treatment.
As for the vacuum not turning on, that will be a simple electrical connection fix somewhere along the current path. The cordwinder contacts, maybe? or a stuck motor brush, or any number of simple things to remedy. It's all worth investigating and as soon as you hear that motor purr you'll want to do a complete makeover.
I like cosmetic perfection as well but in the face of a few minor blemishes I'd apply the best cosmetic repair I can and count myself lucky.
I have the System 90 version of this with a cut off cord and a few other problems that I'm keeping until it can make it to the workbench.
I don't have this blue & cream Ambassador model Canadian Lux so if you decide it's all too much bother please toss it in the direction of my trash, please...
Dave
